MTFCA Forum

Sounds like the clutch is slipping, either misadjusted, worn or shot...spring weak ?
Check adjustment first, I would say.

Either a slippy clutch or it does not get more gas when the throttle is opened further.

I too would say slipping clutch. I would suggest trying to adjust the clutch and if that does not work, could be time to pull and check things out. Might be the lugs in the brake drum are worn and the disks are hanging up or worn disks.

Absolutely the high speed clutch. Malajusted linkage, malajusted clutch fingers, weak spring, worn out discs if aftermarket. Any or all of these. In any event, as you know, to continue driving as is will not make it better.

Assuming that it cannot otherwise be adjusted to correct operation, the cheapest and quickest thing to do would be to put in a Stoltz "slipping clutch fix kit". They have pepped up more than one ailing transmission: http://modeltranch.com/show_product.asp?idProduct=65

Deleted due to double post..........

George

you may well be right. I discounted that possibility when Steve said it would slip on throttle after being up to speed, but being new, if he's resting his foot on the clutch like some ride a clutch, that may be all there is to it. Good insight. The clutch IS slipping, but driving technique, particularly a foot laying on the pedal will be a contributing factor. If that car has an aftermarket clutch, he needs to ID and solve the problem before it has gone over the hill.

First thing to check and an easy one. Pull the clevis pins out of the brake rods at the cross shaft. Put the parking brake lever ALL the way forward. Without pulling on the brake rods, try to re-install the pins. the rods are adjusted too long. Adjust the rods so that the pin can go right in witout any pulling on the rods and keeping the lever all the way forward. Then test the car. There should not be shuddering when you go into high and the car should not pull to one side when you pull on the parking brake. If it pulls to one side, shorten the rod on the opposite side of the car one half turn and try again. If it still pulls shorten 1/2 turn until it pulls straight.

Another thing about shifting, when you go from low to high, push up the throttle as you shift and then when you get into high pull the throttle down to gain speed. If you have made the adjustments listed above and it still slips and shudders, and the engine races without picking up speed, you have a problem in the clutch itself and you can adjust the 3 fingers.

you need to get the book on "Transmission" by the club. It has all the details concerning adjustment or replacement of the clutch.
Norm

Hey Scott, Could you explain the slip kit? I looked at the listing and seems like this plastic tubing with a wire retainer inside would be placed behind the weak clutch spring and wired in place? I guess you could also just use a few wraps of baling wire?

Gene, I must confess that I have not personally used one of these kits, so do not know what the tube material is. I have, however heard of two users who claimed that it boosted a weak spring which was not properly screened out at rebuild time. This has been a couple of years and do not recall where or who was involved in these conversations or I would revisit them for more info. Wouldn't hurt to contact the vendor.

take care

The key words in Steve’s beginning post are “new to the game”. His newly learned driving habits may have some indication about how the car drives. Granted there may be some adjustment issues in the clutch but throwing the car in high by throwing the brake lever forward will make for a lurching T to be sure.

The clutch is slipping. There is nothing else that will cause this issue. First make sure the bolt in the clutch release shaft does not touch the cam on the hand brake cross shaft when the lever is forward. This should be done with the floor boards in place. If the bolt touches, cut the slot in the floor boards longer or adjust as necessary. If that's not the problem, adjust the clutch pressure fingers start with one full turn in. The shudder when shifting is either due to driving techniques or the clutch slipping and struggling to take hold.

I could have sworn I responded to this last night but I guess not. I’m not as experienced as a lot of the posters here but I agree the clutch is slipping. Without knowing what this owner or car’s backgrounds are, I would suggest the following:

1. Change the oil. Put in a cheap 5W30 and NO ADDITIVES.

2. Check the clutch linkage is adjusted for as free a neutral as it can give and that the lever isn’t impeded by the floorboards. I’d be inclined to take a run down the road wi5 the floor removed to be sure it’s not a problem.

3. Check the clutch fingers inside the transmission. If loose, tighten their screws all 1/2 turn at a time. I snugged down mine until they didn’t jiggle then backed off a half a turn so that there was no chance the clutch would drag when released.

4. Check your technique. I’m still relatively new and not 100% certain I drive a T well enough to tell someone else how to do it, someone else can help with the finer points.

I would think the odds are the problem can be fixed with one of the above though all are worthwhile to do.

Tim

if everything is as you want it to be after performing #3 on your list, then you're OK obviously. I would not be inclined to tell anyone to do this to their car, myself. When set up properly, and a spring of proper tension, the distance between the clutch throw out ring and the clutch plate should be preliminarily set to 13/16". When in neutral or low gear, the fingers will dangle and appear to be quite loose...to simply screw them in at this point is counter to designed set up and has the potential to start throwing other adjustments on the exterior clutch linkage.

To recap, if it's good for you, then fine, but I would strongly caution anyone else from following suit in an attempt to troubleshoot the OP's problem.

While a slipping high may be easily remedied by tightening down the screws (1/2 turn at a time, with road testing inbetween), it is typically an excessive adjustment to arbitrarily adjust screws until just wiggling when in neutral. If I have misread or misunderstand your adjustment, I apologise, but I don't think I misread...

this tool (I have no connection to it's mft or sale) will easily show anyone if they are at or near the initial setting of 13/16" for initial spring tension in high gear: https://www.modeltford.com/item/3339.aspx

Scott, maybe it deserves a thread of its own but I never understood why my method was wrong. I figured that the throw out collar holds back the clutch assembly and ‘not-quite-engaged’ would be the best place for it to be. I’m willing to accept that I’m wrong (couldn’t learn anything otherwise) but don’t quite grasp the full reason why. A little help?

Tim

I agree that this doesn't deserve persuing on this thread, and will desist following this response. However, if this moves to another thread, I will not attempt to argue the merit of setting up the transmission according to the Ford's direction vs an arbitrary adjustment that apparently doesn't serve any purpose other than being a personal preference. If you can draw someone else into that debate, I'll just watch.

The 13/16 is an initial setting which is generally sufficient with a spring mfg'd with the correct spring rate/compressed length. To finalize correct adjustment, the screws are tightened or loosened to achieve a secure hook-up in high gear, with minimum shock to the driveline. If you chose to adjust it to some personal preference, you are certainly free to. I am merely taking the opportunity for the benefit of folks looking to make this adjustment, to be made aware that your choice of adjustment is a choice, not a mfg recommended setting.

Hi Tim, The 13/16" initial adjustment applies a defined amount of pressure on the clutch discs, if it has the proper spring to begin with,as Scott has mentioned. When you use the tool mentioned, and adjust each finger, it also sets the release collar so the wobble is minimal. If the pressure fingers are loose, they are not applying any pressure to the discs. The release collar pushes on the fingers and through the adjustment screws, applies pressure to the discs. When the the clutch is released, by foot or hand brake, the collar collapses the spring releasing pressure on the fingers. thus releasing pressure on the discs. It works backwards to a normal throw out bearing used on most clutches, where you would not want pressure on the fingers or bearing when released. Here when adjusted properly and neutral set properly, the release collar will have no pressure on it. Scott also mentioned that you can adjust the clutch tension some with the adjustment screws. What I usually find is that the finger adjustment is ok and the spring is weak causing the clutch to slip. As the clutches ware, the adjustment screws can be taken up. I think you covered the other things that also cause a clutch to slip very well. Once my clutch was slipping and as you mentioned, I pulled the floor boards out and phewwww. That was all it was. Like you said I can also see why some oil or additives will make the clutch slip. The great thing about this forum is we get to bounce Ideas and thoughts off each other. Some times the obvious is not so obvious, but get a new set of eyes on it and there it is. Respectfully submitted John

The clutch disks could be shot, blue with heat, worn too thin, etc etc. the clutch spring could be weak, after all it could well be 100 years old. Of course it could be Ill adjusted.
The Ford and MTFCA both specify how to adjust the clutch. The 13/16 is critical setting as it sets where the external arm is located and that in turn sets where the handbrake cam is located. The 2” does not show the strength of the spring but gives an indication to the condition of the plates. This is especially important with non-metallic disks.
I suggest that setting up the clutch is not especially simple.
With all the variables it’s clear that just guessing will most likely end in disappointment. So I suggest you follow the instructions to have the best chance of success.