MTFCA Forum

I recently acquired this 5Z314 clutch drum puller at an estate sale of an elderly Model T enthusiast.

Can anyone tell me or post photos of the correct bolts for the puller?

It came with two 3/8" bolts and corresponding castle nuts as shown in the photos.

However, these bolts are too small for the threaded holes in the puller.

The threaded holes in the puller are 13/32" in diameter which seems like an odd size. (A 13/32" drill bit fits in the holes but a 27/64" drill bit does not.)

Based on the few photos of clutch drum pullers I found in the internet, the original/correct bolts are probably only partially threaded so the portion of the bolts protruding from the puller are actually smooth prongs that are inserted in the corresponding holes in the clutch drum.

Worth mentioning: the "Z" is backwards in the "5Z314" that is embossed on the the tool.

They are 7/16"-20 x 13/16" oal. I'm happy to take additional measurements if you'd like to duplicate them accurately.

They are the same bolts that keep the cam shaft bushing in place.

Same set screw used in cam bearings. Part #3046. About $3 from the parts dealers. The puller sometimes works but a drum that's really stuck will wreck it and you'll have to devise your own tool or buy one.
Home made.

Store bought.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 07, 2020 10:52 pm

They are the same bolts that keep the cam shaft bushing in place.

Ha! Forgot about that -- now I don't have to draw it!

Thank you for all of the replies.

Here is a photo of the set screw that is available from Langs.

I'll have to see if my dad has any NOS or used in his parts stash.

PS: I also realize my mistake in measuring the diameters of the holes. Instead of using drill bits, I should have used my thread gauge and then found a corresponding 7/16" bolt with the same threads.

Hi Erik,
If you have a lathe or know some one with a lathe pick up two grade 8 7/16 bolts and machine the bolts to use. I have used up most of my cam bearing bolts on stuborn clutch hubs trying to pull them shearing them off and bending them. they are very soft. it also helps to make the stem as large as you can where it fits in the clutch basket.

I just barrow the ones from the cam shaft and use them. The repos don't have enough threads anyway in my OP. I have pulled the threads just putting them in.

I had gotten 2 of these from Mark Chaffin (both original, 5-Z-314 marked pullers) and each one had different bolts for pulling the drum. One has the 7/16-20 fine thread and the other has the 7/16-14 coarse thread. The fine thread bolts have a different size head and the pin is a different length, aside from that, the pullers are identical.

On a hard pull, you are better off using 3/8 bolts with nuts. The pins tend to allow the puller arms to spread out and bend. Just FYI.

Steve is right about those hard pulls. It’s why you occasionally see the original puller ‘spread out’. That’s why the first pics show those 3/8” bolts with nuts on the puller. Just as Dan M. mentions. Sometimes those clutch drums are really tough to get to move.

Usually the extreme tightness is caused by a burr that was thrown up during assembly. I've found that to be the case on about 1/3 of the transmissions I've worked on. Nearly all of the drums in this scenario get wrecked during pulling; it's smart to be sure you have a good one on hand as a replcement before you start.

Incidentally, my Ford puller has hardened pins, not bolts, and the holes aren't threaded.