MTFCA Forum

How is a new felt (or other) front crank gasket be installed on the block side? I wouldn't be opposed to installing a modern type seal, but really don't want to disrupt the crandlk and main bearing fitingsvto lift the crank up far enough to install.

That pretty much leaves rope (I saw a Mike Bender video where he installed a teflon impregnated one), or felt. I put black RTV on the block side of the felt, the tried stuffing it between the crank and the block.... But couldn't get it all the way around the crank.

Suggestions? The pan side is no problem, as I can easily put it in the slot for it, before mounting the pan.

Thanks,

Dennis

Since you have the pan off, easy to remove the front plate ( timing gear or timing cover - cylinder cover) and install the rope seal.

Seat it with the cylinder side of a socket the same dia. as the crankshaft. Then refit the timing cover, being sure to tap it in place while aligning the timer cover to the timer tool to insure the cam shaft is centered with the timer. Important to use that tool!





Timer tool used to align cam shaft with front plate. Keeps the timer rotor in the proper relationship to the cam and the timer case.

Oh, duh! Gosh.. I didn't think of that extra bit having off the front, that could be removed! But then, I wouldn't have known about yet another tool I don't have...the timer tool!

Yep, get that tool. The one shown was made by Gene French, the rebabbit jig guy Works great and low cost.

When centered the front plate can then be fitted with modern neoprene type seal on the cam shaft, to prevent oil leaks into the timer case, and do away with the felt seal and the brass plate over it. Gets rid of un-needed stuff there!

Dan ... Is that alignment tool Snder's T-3009-T, vs the T-3009-KRW?

I use the white rope seals listed by Snyder's as A model seals. They are longer than needed and can be trimmed back. Seat them as Dan suggested with a socket. I like to leave them about the thickness of the pan gasket proud of the block deck. I trim the gasket to fit around the seal. Then the pan half is fitted, also left a little proud. When the two are brought together, the two halves have that little more crush to ensure a good seal.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

The tool shown in my photo is this one from Gene, the others work as well.The fancy KRW repro just costs more.


by Gene_French » Fri May 10, 2019 11:09 am

centering tool used to position the front timing cover concentric to the camshaft … this tool sets in the timer recess and assures the centering of the front cover during assembly … uniform timing and improved performance between individual cylinders is achieved as a result … price $24.00 + $7.60 flat rate priority mail postage in lower 48 states … actual postage outside this area or international … Gene French ph. 970-581-2808
t cover loc.jpg

Thanks! I was going to look for his number or email address tonight!

Guess I'd better get one ordered!!

I appreciate it!

I have good experience with an oil seal , and glue them against the block with J-B weld .
Toon

Dennis, If you don't want any leaks at your crankshaft then do as Toon recommended. but DON"T Use JB weld!! Use Ultra Black gasket sealer from Permatex because it will adhere Very well and also is FLEXIBLE. You'll have room for this seal but I bend a few more pedals on that daisy type flow of a seal. Mounted backwards it will still prevent any oil leaks till the next O/H!!
You can Google Crankshaft Seal MTFCA and find a lot more info there.

Dan ...

On Lang's site, it says the crankshaft and fanbelt pulley would need to be removed... Doesn't seem like the crankshaft would need to be removed??

Thanks..

Dennis

Might anyone know NAPA part numbers for the crank and camshaft modern seals? I can certainly order from 5ge venders (Snyder's are my go-to guys, as shipping to me seems to be faster)... But I'm in the NAPA store all the time, and used to deliver parts to them......

Thanks!

Dennis, you saw the picture that Toon posted. That is how you can install the seal without and problem. Most all T's have enough room to install a thin seal. One is Harwal 30-50-05 oil seal type AO NBR. Here's some part numbers from some seal I've used. Those are the mm sizes for the Harwal seal

CR 12458, will also work

Gene

Sorry cam seal is skf 9853 or cr is 9876 Use the Ultra Black to glue it to the block.. Check out the detailed instructions on Google that I've posted

I’ve used Gene’s technique successfully a couple times (although I prefer Right Stuff as the sealant/adhesive).

You might find your seal is a bit too thick and fouls against the crank pulley — I had that issue with one of the reproductive aluminum clamp-on pulleys, easily overcome with a bit of lathe work.

Thanks, all!

Is there any harm in bending the pieces between the pedals back as well? Looks like I could gain a bit more clearance.
Got the rope in too.... (Well, half, anyway...)