Early Carburetor Adjusting rod

[Original Smith]

I have an early carburetor adjusting rod with the forging number 1359 B. What came first, the one I just mentioned, or the plain ones. No guessing please. I'm only interested in facts!

[pete eastwood]

I have an early one with the number forged into it , I'll check the number

[KWTownsend]

Larry, if there is a 1359 B, then there is a 1359 that was made before it.

[Original Smith]

Keith: Do you have an example of one without the B ? I'm working on a plain one now for my '14, which was badly pitted. I think probably a former owner of my car kept the good one for a souvenir?

[R.V.Anderson]

There is a 1359 and a 1359A but no 1359B in Ford's info. The differences, apparently, are in the lengths: 18-13/16", 18-23/32", or 19-1/2".

[Allan]

RV, that's interesting! What practical reason could there be on such an imprecise part to make one 3/32 longer? It doesn't make much sense to me.

Allan from down under.

[2nighthawks]

Allan - When you visualize what happens at the carburetor end (or "fork" end) of the rod, in a full 360 degree rotation of the fork ends of the rod inserted in the two little holes in the horizontal piece at the top of the carburetor adjustment, at one setting, the one fork "tine" end of the fork is nearly out of the hole, while that same ("tine" for lack of a better word) when the rod and adjustment is rotated 180 degrees, it protrudes much deeper into the hole. Depending on the angle of the adjusting rod from vertical, the length of those two adjusting rod fork "tines" is pretty critical. Different years, models, or body styles of the Model T may have changed the angle of the rod from where it passes thru' the firewall to where it meets the carburetor. That would make a difference of the length of those fork tines pretty "critical" I would think, ..... a bit too long, and it will fail to rotate a full 360 degrees due to interference with the vertical stem that protrudes up out of the carburetor, and too short, and it will disengage from the hole.....harold

[Allan]

Harold, that might make sense if the difference in length is in the fork tines, but that is not stated. 3/32" is less than 1/8", hardly worth the effort to change it. Perhaps the drawing office was having a slack day and somebody was looking for something to do.

Allan from down under.

[Drkbp]

Mine is 18-23/32" - I don't seem to see the number but it could be there. Where is it located?

It is the adjusting rod that was in the touring when I got it so I don't know if it is the correct one.

I have a Kingston 4-ball and the tines drop well into the round brass adjustment connector.
The carburetor mixture is at an angle and the tine cotter pin won't allow either tine to come out even
if you pulled up on it and twist with the dash knob.

[Original Smith]

Some have part numbers, but most do not. It is located on the forging at the yoke.

[pete eastwood]

Larry , mine has the " B "

[Original Smith]

Pete: That is a nice clear one. I have two like that, and a couple of others with no markings.

[KWTownsend]

I have forged carburetor adjusting rods on my 1911 and 1915.
How long were the forged carburetor adjusting rods made?
When did the brass knurled knob get replaced with the coat hanger shape knob?
When did the forged end become a welded on end?

[Original Smith]

The latest MTFCI judging guidelines are pretty good, but they need to be revised again.