MTFCA Forum

I Plan on using the following procedure to paint small parts on my 1927 coupe (examples- horn, spare tire mounting bracket, crank, etc.):
1) Remove rust with " Krud Kutter - Must for Rust"
2) Apply 50/50 solution of "Must for Rust" and stilled water
3) Prime with Rustoleum Bonding Primer
4) Top coat with black Rustoleum Gloss Protector Enamel

What do you think of that procedure?
How many coats of the primer and the top coat should I use.

In 2012, I painted the below 1926 fender with one coat of Rustoleum Professional red oxide rattle can primer and two coats of Rustoleum gloss black Appliance Epoxy. I took these pictures shortly after painting without any followup work. I was very pleased and have used nothing but Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy, ever since. Jim Patrick

PS. Let each coat thoroughly dry and sand between coats. If you do not let each coat dry thoroughly, the following coat may soften the underlying coat and cause it to alligator which means you’ll have to start over.

Jim, Thanks. Did you use rattle can paint for the top coats on the fenders or just for the primer.

What grit sandpaper?

That was nicely done, Jim! Great job

Yes. Rattle can “Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy”, available at Home Depot. Wet sand with 400 grit sandpaper to rough up the gloss and to remove any grit, runs, bugs or dust that may have gotten into the first coat. If you do a good job on the second coat, neither sanding nor compounding will be necessary. If there are flaws, carefully sand flaws out with 600 grit sandpaper. Take care not to sand through to the first coat. If you have to sand the second coat, compound with Meguire’s rubbing compound. Unlike most rattle can paints, Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy can be worked like professional auto paint. Jim Patrick

BLB27 wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:52 pm

I Plan on using the following procedure to paint small parts on my 1927 coupe (examples- horn, spare tire mounting bracket, crank, etc.):
1) Remove rust with " Krud Kutter - Must for Rust"
2) Apply 50/50 solution of "Must for Rust" and stilled water
3) Prime with Rustoleum Bonding Primer
4) Top coat with black Rustoleum Gloss Protector Enamel

What do you think of that procedure?
How many coats of the primer and the top coat should I use.

I pretty much do the same procedure for non-body parts
all depends on the parts usage & for steel parts & how to match the rest of the car
What steps used all depends on what the final appearance of the part requires (I'd do more for a Horn than a nut)
1) Wash off dust & grime (Oxiclean)
2) Remove any paint with stripper
3) De-grease with mineral spirits
I found that the first three steps keep the phosphate solution (Krud Kutter) reusable longer
4) inspect for dents and dings that may need to be removed
5) Remove rust with " Krud Kutter - Must for Rust"
6) Wire brush off residue. Sand surfaces to remove any grainy surface irregularities if needed. use glaze body filler?
7) Prime with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer then sand if/when needed - repeat until little or no marks visible.
If surface appearance isn't critical skip to step 9
8) sand self-etching then spray with Rustoleum sand-able primer - sand with wet 600grit and repeat step until desired finish
9) Top coat with Rustoleum Farm & Implement Paint either Low Gloss Black or Gloss Black - light coats (last coat may be the wet coat)
Rustoleum High Heat for engine parts
If surface appearance is achieved go to step 11
10) Sand with wet1000 then step 9 again
11) have a cold one - you deserve it

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 29, 2020 12:08 am

Yes. Rattle can “Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy”, available at Home Depot. Wet sand with 400 grit sandpaper to rough up the gloss and to remove any grit, runs, bugs or dust that may have gotten into the first coat. If you do a good job on the second coat, neither sanding nor compounding will be necessary. If there are flaws, carefully sand flaws out with 600 grit sandpaper. Take care not to sand through to the first coat. If you have to sand the second coat, compound with Meguire’s rubbing compound. Unlike most rattle can paints, Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy can be worked like professional auto paint. Jim Patrick

The specification for Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy says for indoor use only. https://images.homedepot-static.com/cat ... 88cf74.pdf
BUT Jim did an experiment back in 2011 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/182651.html to understand the restriction and used it to paint his fenders

I think they specify that it is for indoor use only to CTA (cover their A..). I have found that it is just as durable, outdoors, than other rattle can paints. If you keep your T in a garage, no worries. Even if the finish starts to oxidize, as all paints eventually do, you can compound it back to a mirror finish with Meguiar’s Ultimate rubbing Compound in a few minutes and, followed with an application of Meguiar’s paste wax, your paint job is good for several more years. Jim Patrick
PS. Be sure to read the instructions. If the first coat is applied flawlessly, the second coat can be applied within 30 minutes, however, if you wait longer than 30 minutes, or you see debris, bugs, dust or runs in the paint, you will need to wait several days before applying the second coat. When doing this kind of work, you can’t be impatient, or in a hurry. That won’t make it dry any faster. I let it wait at least a week before applying the second coat and, after a week, if I can still smell it, I wait longer. As I said before, to apply a second coat before the first coat is completely dry, will result in your having to start over.

FWIW, I follow what TXD steps out pretty much to the letter.

I will also Add that when Jim in Bartow, a Semper Fi guy went through all of his experiments “grunting” his way through the skeptics, I became a believer and I now use the Black Appliance rattle on pretty most everything. Just redid fenders on the hack, just did some hubs, and the Hack got a hood paint job with it. It works and even if you are a basic rattle can user, I have found that as long as you flair out at the end of a sweep, unlike other rattle can product it doesn’t give you a tiny run here and there that you have to polish out.

I think that indoor only is that it is a black and they went a little light on the UV protectants as they are known to sometimes shift the depth of color

Another point that is said, but not elaborated on yet. Decide on the smoothness of finish you want and make sure your sandable primer has that finish when tacked off. I sometimes stop at 600, other times like headlight buckets I’ll go 1200.

Question for Jim, but first thank you for the info.

What was the surface condition of the fenders before priming and how did you prepare the surface for priming?

What did you do to the underside of the fenders?

A guy in my car club painted an entire 54 Ford with Rustoleum Appliance paint....wet sanding between coats.

It turned out so nice that people thought he was lying about it.

Several years ago, HotRod Magazine did a series of articles about painting cars this way.

Professional auto painters will scoff at this approach and maybe rightfully so, but for an amatuers with more time on their hands then money/equipment, it's a viable approach.

Has anyone tried the Rust-Oleum Peel Coat Spray Paint before?
I bought a can and will test to see how it works.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... peel-coat/

I agree with jiminbartow. Rustoeum appliance paint is the way to go. My only problem with it is that the local Ace Hardware store is out of it more often then it has it.

Hi Bruce. This is how I did the fender, but this technique can be used for other parts as well, such as the hood, doors, trunk and body. When I first bought my ‘26 coupe In 1970, the entire car, including this fender was originally covered with thick rust, dents and tears. The body behind the doors were shot through with several big 45 cal. bullet holes. When I restored it, I took off the rust with muriatic acid down to the bare metal, brazed the tears and bullet holes, beat out the dents With body working block and tools and smoothed the dents and rust pits with bondo. Then using a spray gun, sprayed both sides of fender with red oxide primer and finished with gloss black lacquer, wet sanding between coats. After 40 years, in 2011, it was ready for re-painting. I made repairs and wet sanded smooth with 400 grit paper. In some places, I sanded through the lacquer to the primer and occassionally through to the bondo. I applied the Rustoleum Appliance epoxy directly onto this surface as well as the underside of the fender. When Applying this paint, you need to heed the advice of Wyatt Earp when, late in life he was asked “what does it take to win a gunfight?“, to which he replied “you take your time in a hurry”. This applies perfectly to painting. Before painting, prepare a dust free area, preferably indoors, where you can paint and where it can dry. Blow off all surfaces close to the painting area and sweep and blow Dust from the floor, out of the room. Let it settle and do it again. If you have a big pedestal fan, point it away from the work to the outside to carry overspray away from the work and out of the room. Also, prepare a narrow waist high table for the fender that will enable you easy access to walk around the fender and spray from all angles. Have a good 3” fine bristle paintbrush In your back pocket to use to whisk off the dust prior to painting. Just prior to painting, use your air compressor outside to blow all the dust from the top of your head , your clothes, pants, down to your shoes and while you are painting, try to hold your breath when painting. Turn your head away from the work when exhaling. If you see a bit of dust or a bug settle on your perfect finish, do not try to remove it. You can spot correct it by softly wet sanding with 600 grit sandpaper and compounding. If you get no dust specks, bugs or flaws, this coat should be the only coat you need to apply, but it may take two weeks to fully dry, because, using this method, you are basically applying 2 coats at the same time, which is necessary for the smooth, wet, mirror like surface. Be careful not to apply it too thick that it causes it to run.

Make sure you have at least 4 cans of shaken rattle cans prior to starting the job so that you can continue without running out. It is better to have too much than too little, for you can always return what you don’t use. Once you start, you can’t stop to go to Home Depot for more. Spray paint the underside first, then do the top. When I spray it on, the secret is to keep moving around the fender, continuously spraying the paint from all angles, keeping it wet so that any overspray will sink into the wet paint and not settle on top of the paint. This means you need to apply a coat and then go back and continuously spray over previously applied coats so that it looks shiny and stays wet. When spraying back and forth, at the end of each pass, let up on the button so it feathers, instead of building up at each end of each pass. Continuously walk around the piece and keep moving. After you have done this to the entire fender, going over it several times, let it dry in a dust free room. Jim Patrick

If you do Rustoleum Appliance Paint can you add pin stripes? If so, how? and I am not an artist.

Yes. I have 3M adhesive backed pinstriping on mine. I used 1/8” wide gold. It comes all widths and colors, sticks on permanently and looks very nice. Jim Patrick

Interesting and does look nice. What if you want to do a box with rounded corners or a fancy curve?

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:35 pm

Yes. I have 3M adhesive backed pinstriping on mine. I used 1/8” wide gold. It comes all widths and colors, sticks on permanently and looks very nice. Jim Patrick


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Jim, Thank you for that good description, just what I needed!! When I learn how to post photos, I will send some of my 1927 coupe that my grandsons and I are working on.

Regarding the 3M Peel and stick pinstriping tape...yes you can do curves and designs. Just Make sure the surface is clean and apply the curve gradually... curve, press, curve, press, etc. The vinyl pinstriping tape will do a real tight radius. You’ll get the hang of it, the more you do. When doing a square, cut it and continue 90 degrees from original direction. You can either mitre Each end at a 45 degree angle or square ends and overlap. I like to mitre ends. Sticks better to painted surface, than to itself. You can look up 3M pinstriping to see available colors. When you order, make sure you don’t order reflective or metallic as that was not available in the day. Order the solid color. Pinstriping used to be done by and artist with a very steady hand and thin, long bristled, pointed brush, but it is almost a lost art. There is also a pinstriping roller with different wheel widths.

Glad to help, Bruce. Good luck. Looking forward to pictures. Jim Patrick

Jim, I recently used the tape for pinstriping on a old John Dree sulky plow which I am going to put in a museum in my small home town in N.D. How long do you think it will last. I try using paint and gave it up!!

My 3M pinstriping has lasted for 20 years and shows no evidence of failure. Of course It depends on how well the surface has been cleaned and prepared. Also, I have always stored my T in a garage and have never driven my car in the rain or exposed it to prolonged sunshine. The good thing is that, if it does fail, it can be redone in a few minutes. Jim Patrick

You can always do it in paint by doing it in reverse, Line first then color.
Say you want a white line on a red paint job. After the preparation is ready for paint
Spray the white on in the area the line will be, then when its dry use the thin tape to put the line where you want it.
They make a lining masking tape for this if you can find it?

Then paint the red color and when it has flashed off or before it gets too hard peel off the tape.
If you use a basecoat system where you apply color and then clear you can clear both the line and the color and it will be impossible to rub off the fine line.

poorboy1921 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 30, 2020 1:56 pm

Has anyone tried the Rust-Oleum Peel Coat Spray Paint before?
I bought a can and will test to see how it works.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... peel-coat/
peel paint.JPG

Wonder if it works as good as it does in the movies...?

Your indoor use only paint might work if you only take the car out occasionally, however, on a car which is parked outside all the time, you need one which will not deteriorate in sunlight.
Jim, your fender looks very good.
Norm

Then there are the Pin Striping Masters

That is a real talent. I have tried pinstriping and cannot go an inch without veering off course. I am, however, pretty decent with applying the vinyl pinstriping tape. Jim Patrick

Does anyone know how well does Rust oleum white appliance epoxy do on wood spokes?

Ignacio....there's a guy who sometimes comes to the Niftee 50's car meets in The Woodlands who's a pinstriper. I've even seen him pinstriping cars right there during the meet if the weather's right.

Rustoleum White Appliance Epoxy or any paint, for that matter, will do fine on wooden spokes, but the wood spokes should be primed first with an oil based exterior wood primer. The best wood primer, in my opinion, is what I have used on my Victorian house for the past 35 years. Sherwin Williams Oil Based Exterior Wood Primer. It used to be known as A-1 Primer. It should be brushed on the spokes with good quality 1” to 1 1/2” angled sash brush. Steel should be primed with red oxide primer and, after priming, can also be sprayed with the Rustoleum White Appliance Epoxy. Jim Patrick

PS. The Sherwin Williams Exterior Wood Primer takes at least 4 days to dry. I always allow it to dry for a week before finish coating. If you can smell it, When you enter the room, it is not yet dry.