MTFCA Forum

I'm putting my transmission back together and gave an Almost new slow pedal clevis connector. The 'foot' of the connector that goes through the arm on the slow pedal is quite loose. The connector foot isn't worn at all, so assume the hole it goes into is wallered out a bit. How much is too much? Wish I had taken a short video of it. I know this connection is critical for the clutch, and to get a decent 'neutral'. I thought about trying to find a thin sleeve to go over the foot, to take up the slack.. or make a new connector out of a bolt with a larger shank.

Suggestions, or leave it alone?

Found an alternative fix https://modeltfordfix.com/adjusting-the ... nd-clutch/

I’m not sure if this is the part you are talking about but I welded up the hole and then redrilled it.

Dennis,

What hole is worn out? The hole in the pedal, or the hole in the clevis?

Either way, as long as nothing is worn to the point of breaking, it's not that big a deal. The only thing that linkage has to do is push on the clutch bell crank. As long as you can adjust its length well enough to push on the bell crank as much as it should in order to get a neutral, your in good shape. That said, it's always nice to start with parts as unworn as possible...

The two holes, one in the pedal and one in the clutch arm, cannot be an absolutely neat fit. There has to be a little slop. When you engage low gear, the shaft moves sideways somewhat. If the hole in the pedal is a precise fit, the linkage will have to travel sideways with the pedal, which it cannot do as the clevis end is fixed. I once rebuilt both holes with bronze and drilled them neatly to fit a new clevis pin and new L arm. When fitted, the pedal bound on the linkage and resisted travelling sideways as the pedal was pushed. I redrilled both holes 1/64" oversize and the binding went away.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Ahh... Very good all!
I'll let her go. I did think of brazing it closed and re-drill. Glad I didn't.

Jerry... Yes.. it's the hole on the arm hanging from the pedal. The other hole that the clevis goes through is fine. Well... I guess they both are!

thanks!

An important consideration is keeping the original geometry of the thing. If it is off it will behave or misbehave in strange ways.

The holes ought to round and not oval shaped. The holes are slightly bigger than the two pieces going to it. That’s my view anyway. Worn parts in this area can cause pedal adjustment issues. The same thing happens when the pedal cams get slightly worn. The adjustment gets a little different and that’s when issues slowly start to happen.
Yes I know you can still drive your car that way but the difference shows up in time as the parts wear.

I just braze the hole up and re-drill it.

Stephen