Krud Kutter-Must for Rust vs Copper
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
BLB27
Topic author - Posts: 878
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
- MTFCA Number: 31192
Krud Kutter-Must for Rust vs Copper
I am going to clean my 1927 vaporizer carb and manifolds with Krud Kutter- Must for Rust. Is it OK to have it contact copper pieces?
-
OilyBill
- Posts: 552
- Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2020 3:51 pm
- First Name: William
- Last Name: May
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Runabout
- Location: Tucson, Arizona
Re: Krud Kutter-Must for Rust vs Copper
I have my vaporizer carb on my bench now, after taking it apart after being soaked in Evaporust. Evaporust does NOT attack the float, the brass parts, the copper parts, or anything else. It just removes the rust and leaves everything else untouched.
This would be an ideal test for you to try E.R and see what you think. It is non-irritating, and you can put it in the flimsiest plastic container, or even in a heavy plastic bag, and it will not affect the plastic bag in any way.
If you do try it, please post here on what your results were. I think you will be very pleased.
One other thing I forgot to mention. Once you use it, the Evaporust starts looking black and gunky. That doesn't matter. You can still process more parts in what you already used. It is NOT a one-use product. To find out when it is used up, just put in a rusty part, and when the rust is no longer affected, the solution is done. I put my Evaporust in a small 1 gallon paint bucket with a lid on it. I have used margarine tubs, some plastic bottles from protein shakes I used to drink, etc. You don't even really need a lid, but it does keep down the evaporation. I keep my containers closed. It also reduces the smell, There is not much smell, and most of t he odor comes from the parts themselves.
Once the Evaporust is "dead" there is no way to bring it back or reactivate it. But one gallon will do a LOT of rusty parts.
Also, when it is "dead", you can just pour it down the kitchen sink. It is NOT a pollutant or hazardous chemical, and the solution is basically just iron oxide in a water based solution when it is "dead"
I wish I could post pictures.
This would be an ideal test for you to try E.R and see what you think. It is non-irritating, and you can put it in the flimsiest plastic container, or even in a heavy plastic bag, and it will not affect the plastic bag in any way.
If you do try it, please post here on what your results were. I think you will be very pleased.
One other thing I forgot to mention. Once you use it, the Evaporust starts looking black and gunky. That doesn't matter. You can still process more parts in what you already used. It is NOT a one-use product. To find out when it is used up, just put in a rusty part, and when the rust is no longer affected, the solution is done. I put my Evaporust in a small 1 gallon paint bucket with a lid on it. I have used margarine tubs, some plastic bottles from protein shakes I used to drink, etc. You don't even really need a lid, but it does keep down the evaporation. I keep my containers closed. It also reduces the smell, There is not much smell, and most of t he odor comes from the parts themselves.
Once the Evaporust is "dead" there is no way to bring it back or reactivate it. But one gallon will do a LOT of rusty parts.
Also, when it is "dead", you can just pour it down the kitchen sink. It is NOT a pollutant or hazardous chemical, and the solution is basically just iron oxide in a water based solution when it is "dead"
I wish I could post pictures.