Clutch adjustment - slipping

[radiatorman]

Just getting 26 Tudor on the road and observed two things when in high gear, slippage going up slight grade and during throttle down it continues to roll freely.
In referencing the model T service manual it discusses adjusting the three fingers screws to obtain a 13/16" gap between clutch shift and the drive plate. Upon inspection the gap is greater than the recommended clearance. The manual suggest adjusting the three fingers equally with a half turn "Clockwise " and reinstall the cotter pin. In following that procedure the gap has increased. I first used a 1/2 box end wrench which was a few thousands wider to get an idea on size of gap, but I just received a T-3339 clutch gap tool today. What I'm finding is the gap gets bigger by turning the screws clockwise and shorter stroke of the clutch pedal so I have stopped messing with it at the moment. I'm seeking to get confirmation that the Ford service manual is not correct and I should turn the screws "Counter Clockwise"? Especially since the slot in the screws would allow more adjustment.



Any thought is greatly appreciated before I reverse course and go counterclockwise of the three finger screws.

[Norman Kling]

Those three fingers pushed in will release the clutch. If there is a gap then the spring is fully extended and those fingers will not make any difference or might make it slip more. Do you know what kind of clutch disks the car has? The original Ford metal disks last longest, but some of the newer replacement type will work a bit more smoothly, but they are made of softer material and wear out if you slip the clutch when going into high. The spring might need to be replaced if it has lost some of it's temper.
Now let's look at some other things which could cause the clutch to slip. The cam on the parking brake shaft still in contact with the clutch lever bolt. This can happen from two causes. One is the brake rods adjusted too long which will not allow the lever to go all the way forward. This can be fixed by adjusting the rods to shorten a bit. If this is the cause try shortening by adjusting them one half turn tighter. Do this by half turns until you get the lever to go all the way forward in high gear. It should not be so tight as to apply the brake in neutral or high. This same thing can be caused by the slot in the floorboard too far back. In this case the lever should work fine with the floorboard removed, but when the floorboard is in place it hits the front edge of the floorboard when you push the lever all the way. In that case, you need to cut the slot on the front edge. Another possible reason could be if the cross shaft on the brake is bent causing the cam to come in contact with the clutch lever.
Last thing would be the hardest and most complicated. That would be to pull the engine and transmission and replace the worn parts such as the disks, spacers or spring. To do this you need the Repair manual and or the booklet on "Transmission" published by the club. It has good illustrated instructions. It is also a good time to repair or rebuild the engine and magneto if they are in need of work so you won't need to pull the engine and transmission again soon.
Good luck,
Norm

[Kerry]

This is a simple one, screwing the adjuster screws in clockwise and loosing pedal travel and the clutch still slipping, then the clutch pack is stuffed.

[Jim_PTC_GA]

Just a note on adjusting the clutch screws. Before pulling the cotter pin, put a string through the head so you can't drop it. I learned this the hard way and it took forever to get the dropped cotter pin out of the transmission.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I believe you're taking your 13/16 measurement in the wrong place. While the trans in neutral, you measure between the tip of the clutch fingers and the sliding collar that the high speed clutch spring pushes against.

If you're measuring in the correct place it's impossible for a clockwise turn of the screw to increase the gap.

Also, look for breaks in your clutch spring while you're "in there".

[Scott_Conger]

Maybe want to rethink that advice Jerry

Photo courtesy of: Dan Treace

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Maybe want to rethink that advice Jerry

clutch tool.jpg

Damn it! I realized I was wrong and rushed back to delete my post, hoping nobody would catch me. Too late....

Yup, do what Scott shows to do...

[Kerry]

That's confusing Jerry, for a neutral that would need the hand break bulled back, no, brake forward so in top or direct drive, measure the space between the collar and drive plate, 13/16" or the spring at 2" .

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

That's confusing Jerry, for a neutral that would need the hand break bulled back, no, brake forward so in top or direct drive, measure the space between the collar and drive plate, 13/16" or the spring at 2" .

Yes Kerry I know. Read above where I, (and Scott), stated that I was wrong.

[Oldav8tor]

Last saturday I saw this operation done by the side of a rural Michigan road on a '25 coupe. The clutch was slipping and I could smell it although I was three cars behind the coupe. Scott Steelman and Brian Dowell came to the rescue and they were able to adjust the clutch well enough that the owner was able to complete the 40 remaining miles of the tour. They went thru a bunch of dental floss tying off the cotter pins to keep them out of the tranny .

[radiatorman]

Just gone through a total rebuild activity and only have two miles on it at this point and approximately three hours of engine run time.

First of all I appreciate the comments and I'm in the process of revisiting all of the adjustments. I 'm looking at the brake rods as I may have them to long since I disconnected them and I'm seeing different measurements which has brought the 13/16" back inline. Next steps is pedal adjustment confirmation and adjustment of the neutral bolt, then revisit brake rod adjustment.

As for clutch disks I 'm using original Ford and they are new along with spring as well.

I have not confirmed everything that's been noted, but i have them on my to do list.

I can stay focused on the model T since I was also working on getting a 58 Edsel back on the road that sat for six years and got that done yesterday.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Be sure that the link from the clutch pedal to the clutch bell crank is not exerting any pressure on the bell crank while the stick is forward and the trans is in high. The linkage should be slack & loose in that situation.

(I'm pretty sure that's correct... )