MTFCA Forum

There are several opinions on the best way to start a Model T engine.

Are there also several procedures for the best way to stop and store a Model T engine?

I have collected Model T books for 40 years and have about 40 of them, but I have not found one!

A local procedure in Maryland is to turn off the gas and let the engine run until it stops.

That one does not appear wide spread or very functional, as the valve sticks shut and then requires a few raps on the carburetor each time the engine is started again, especially if the T sits in the garage for a few weeks.

Some times the valve sticks open and requires a few raps on the carburetor to stop the carburetor from boiling over.

Turn the key off

I like to retard the spark and count to five. 1 You never forget to retard the spark. 2 You get more free starts. 3 Nice if you have a stem winder. Bud.

I use the turn off the gas with the engine on fast idle. I’ve never had any float valve problem

You can lean out the fuel/air mixture to shut down the engine, that's how its done in airplanes, eliminates blown apart mufflers that way.

This is a great topic !! If you think about it, shutting down has almost as much to do with starting up again as anything one might do starting up. Aside from shutting down for long storage, the individual Lizzie may respond well upon reviving to the things one does when shutting down.

I like Bud's procedure. That does seem to yield a greater number of free starts !

My own case, '13 with a Holley G carb, doing that plus adjusting the mixture needle yields good results. It somewhat depends on the weather. Generally I'll open the needle 1/8 turn from the optimal lean running position unless it's really hot. Cold weather start, open a little more. When it's really hot, I leave it in the "lean running" position, and no choke.

Turn the key off, retard the spark lever, lift hood shut off gas. I have never worried about long term storage as I generally try and run the cars up to temp at least once a month and drive them some too. The only snake oil in the gas is what came out of the pump.

I'm with Frank. Turn the key off. Then, retarding the spark becomes part of starting, and that is where it matters most.

Allan from down under.

I throttle down the engine. turn off the key. Retard the spark and finally open hood and turn off the gas at the carburetor. Thinking about installing a electric gas valve to reduce wear on hood latches. I have had the float stick in both the truck and the touring when the carb was run dry. and when I tried to start it up next time float was stuck and flooded the floor with gas. You don't notice it right away when You are in the drivers seat cranking. hopefully You smell or notice it before You have a flood or worse with water heaters and other flame sources in the vicinity.

The advice given by others is fine if you will be driving the vehicle again in the next few weeks. I shut mine off with the ignition but then turn the fuel off at the carb. My carb does not appear to leak but some old carbs sometimes have leaky float valves and it can be a problem. I prefer not to chance it.

If you are talking about long term storage (over winter) I'd suggest filling the tank and adding fuel stabilizer then switch off the fuel to the carb and let it run until it stops from fuel starvation. When I've done that my T starts right up the following spring. I also keep antifreeze in it year around and over winter set it up on jack stands. It also doesn't hurt to do a fresh oil change just before it's winter sleep to remove contaminants in the oil.

My T will soon be getting that treatment as winter is just around the corner here in Michigan.

When I shut off my T I put the brake lever forward to relieve pressure on the spring and clutch pack, recently went to start it and forgot to pull the brake lever back----guess what --- got a free start and almost went through to garage door.

Long term (like over a month), I'll shut off the gas and let it drain the float bowl. Short term, I'll push both levers up, and turn off the key, THEN turn off the gas. That way I have a float bowl full of gas ready to go.

I add a small amount of 2 stroke oil to each tank. Maybe 4-8 ounces. I think it helps lube the top end, the cylinder walls on upstroke, the valves, and the float needle to prevent sticking. "Your mileage may vary"
I get the oil for a song at auctions, and am tempted to try ATF which is I believe is mostly mineral oil. Again, it's cheap at auctions

Shut off gas. Let in run till it dies. Turn off key.

I never was sure which type of transmission fluid was supposed to be added to the engine oil.

A long time ago, I added just a full cup of Marvel Mystery Oil to my transmission.

That oil made the bands so slick that Low and Reverse were somewhat still functional.

The brake would not stop the T at all.

Fortunately, I was not going fast or tail gating when I made the discovery and was able to limp back home to do an oil change.

I find that if I turn off the key with the engine revving a bit and the timing somewhat retarded, I get free starts more often.

Also...I added this little remote fuel shutoff valve so I don't have to climb under the car. I removed the shutoff at the carb because it was so hard to turn and had a constant drip.

If shutting the car off only briefly, I turn the ignition off and open the throttle as the engine stops, then retard the sparkand put the brake on. When I come back to stem-wind the car, there is already a "charge" in the cylinder.

If I am parking the car for a long period of time, I will switch the key off, retard the spark, and leave the car in high gear. That will compress the clutch plates, so when I am starting the car in the future, I put the brake on, which separates the clutch plates making it crank much easier than when the clutch plates have cold oil in between them.

: ^ )

Keith

My understanding with an Anderson timer is to retard then shut off ignition, correct?

Yes Mike - retard prior to shutting down.