MTFCA Forum

These came with the T I purchased. I’ve recently acquired a different set and will likely need to part with these for the sake of space but I don’t know enough about them yet.
Any info? Are they non-ford modified to fit?

They look like wheels for a 1925-1927. They are split rim wheels with balloon tires. They are the standard size. The only thing different I haven't seen is the detachable lugs.
Norm

Tom...what type of other wheels did you acquire? Having bought my Fordor a year ago that has these same kind of tires/wheels as in your pictures, I can honestly tell you they are SUPERIOR to the so-called "standard clincher" type tire if I may use that description, meaning the good ol' 30x3's, and 30x3.5's. These ride so much nicer. Haven't had a need to change any, but the split rim should make it a little bit
easier than fighting with the other type. Just my opinion.

Chevrolet Jaxon wood wheels mounted on Ford hubs. Jaxon used loose lugs with their name on them and you will see the backside of the felloe, the hole for the bolt has an oval shape not square and in the front there is a slot for the clamps ears to fit into.

I have the same wheels on my '25 Touring.
Most would never notice that they are Chevrolet wheels.

As I remember the valve on the Chevy rims are at a different location to the valve on the Model T rims.
I found this to my cost when the spare on the 17 Touring was a Chevy and all the rest Ford.

There are more than a few T’s that have these wheels on their car. You have to look pretty close to see the difference. Over time people would go to their local wrecking yard and find replacement wheels and probably found wheels that would fit. This type would.

Re fitting Ford hubs into Chev wheels, I recently did this on what I thought was a 23" Chev wheel. However, the hub I removed from the wheel was assembled differently to a Ford wheel. The outside flange was part of the hub casting and the inside was the removable plate, exactly the reverse of the Ford. This meant that the chamfer on the spokes to clear the radius on the hubs wason the outside of the wheel rather than the inside as it is on a Ford wheel. Either all the spokes needed to be turned around, or another taper worked on the ends of the spokes.

It may not have been a Chev wheel. The felloe was exactly the same as our loose lug Kelsey wheels supplied with Canadian cars. The felloe has rolled edges on both sides and no slots for the Jaxon type lugs.

Allan from down under.

I have a hub that the flange plate is on the outside, not Dodge so am not sure ether what it came off of.

Thanks for the information, everyone. Very helpful.

Allan wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:58 pm

The outside flange was part of the hub casting and the inside was the removable plate, exactly the reverse of the Ford. This meant that the chamfer on the spokes to clear the radius on the hubs wason the outside of the wheel rather than the inside as it is on a Ford wheel. Either all the spokes needed to be turned around, or another taper worked on the ends of the spokes . . .

That's suggestive. Perhaps it's a photo distortion that shows your wheels with a severe reverse "dish" to the spokes ? If they are as far from being plumb in line from hub to the center of the felloe, I'd say they are unsafe to run. Many wood wheels are engineered to have a slight "dish", but that puts the felloe slightly outboard of the hub.

It’s just the angle/distortion of the photos. The spokes seem pretty in-line with everything.

>whew !<

The rear wheels on a Model 91 Overland have the outer flange made onto the hub and the brake drum serves as the backing plate. I never thought about the spokes being reversed so I went out and looked. Front hubs are like T hubs.

Corey, if you get a chance could you take a photo of the back side of the Overland rear hub? Might be what I have.

The axle is a bit larger than a T.

Thanks Corey. That rules out Overland for the rear hub I have now that I see the back side.