MTFCA Forum

I'm still pretty new to restoration so I decided to hone my skills on a small project. I bought a little running board toolbox on the forum, and got to work.
1) Rust removal: wire wheel on angle grinder, followed by Ospho treatment inside and out, then repeat. For latch, Dremel tool with wire wheel, then Evapo-rust in an ultrasonic cleaner.
2) Hole repair (was used as a battery box): 1/16" sheet metal patches bonded to inside with JB Weld.
3) Dent removal: body hammers and dollies. Excellent way to avoid watching the "debates" on TV, very therapeutic.
4) Dent filling: many layers of lightweight body filler, sanded with my new set of blocks. Discovered rolls of Duragold sandpaper are much better and cheaper than sheets, and 3M lightweight filler sands much better than NAPA store brand. I wasn't sure the filler would be flexible enough for this thin metal, but so far it seems fine.
5) Dismantle and repair latch, cut a new key
6) Electroplate latch mechanism steel parts with nickel-- surprisingly easy!
7) Paint with rattle can enamel. Primer, then sealer, then top coat. Last project I learned how important sealer is when you've used body filler. This time I discovered how hard it is to paint inside of box with rattle can, and how hard it is to keep a wet edge when spraying a 5-sided object. Broke in my $50 Home Depot paint tent-- definitely reduced setup and cleanup time in my garage.

Next time I will add a guide coat step to the body work, since gloss black shows the tiniest defects. I'm guessing no one but you guys would see them, but a guide coat seems like a simple way to judge when I'm really done sanding.

I highly recommend a small project like this for anyone who wants to learn the basics and build some confidence. I think I'm ready for some bigger body panels now.

In the picture, it looks brand new!

Very nice job!

Norman, I am a better photographer than restorer. There are many defects, but if my first effort was perfect I'd have to find a new hobby. There's a good quote from Teddy Roosevelt (correct era for this site): "Nothing in the world is worth having or worth doing unless it means effort, pain, difficulty…"

Your Yale lock is missing the spring-loaded hasp.

It allows you to latch the box shut without having to lock it. It allows serves as a handle for lifting the lid.

Yes Erik, because the hasp is missing I'm not riveting the latch to the box. Just using screws for now. There is also an internal spring which has lost its temper. I plan to keep looking for a better latch and will replace it when I find one, but this one functions OK for now. If you want to steal my jack you'll just need an allen wrench.

Great work!

When I finished reconditioning one of those, and got ready to mount it on my running board, I got worried about the fact that it would be metal-to-metal, with some movement expected, and rust could build up under it without my knowing it.

I ordered 4 Isolation Dampers from Grainger, and used them to mount it.

Now, when I wash the car, I can run water beneath the box, flushing out any dirt or leaves, etc., and also I know it will dry quickly under there.

I couldn't copy a picture of what I used from the Grainger catalog, but if you search for a 2NNZ9, you'll get the idea. It comes in many sizes.

Son of a gun! It DID copy!

I might have a round bottom Yale lock available - I'll have to look.

I do have some Corbins available - not necessarily these as this a picture from last year but have some in my stash.

Arthur, what you have is most likely a battery box. Battery boxes need to be taller than toolboxes. Tool boxes are usually longer in proportion to their height. Yours would work as a toolbox on a roadster, but its height would most likely interfere with being able to open a door on other than a US built Ford with no left hand front door. You have done a great job bring it back into as new condition. I had to do the same to the battery box on my roadster. The biggest problem I had was finding one on which to start.

Allan from down under.

Thanks for the education, Allan. I think it was sold to me as a battery box, but the size is perfect for where I want to mount in on the running board and it should fit all the tools I take on local drives. I never get more than 10 miles from my house, and it's always downhill to get home!

It is wise to start with smaller projects and work up to larger ones. Some of us get overwhelmed when projects become more than we bargained for.
Nice work Arthur

Peter's mounting idea is great. When I mount number plates on panelwork, I always put a short length of rubber fuel hose on the bolts so the plate stands off the panel, allowing dust/water to pass through.

On a T, I am reluctant to ever drill holes in a Ford running board, so I first mount a wooden base board using bolts and spacers through existing running board/fender boltholes. Then the toolbox is screwed to the base board.

Allan from down under.

I am reluctant to ever drill holes in a Ford running board...

Me too. I made a pair of brackets that bolt on the tool box and clamp on the running board so I can easily take the box off one car and put it on another.

I did the same for the cans.

Instead of fabricating brackets/clamps, some folks use the clamps from running board pantograph luggage racks and bolt them to the bottom of the toolbox.