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muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2020 6:17 pm
by dhosh
I know mufflers have been kicked around here, quite a bit... At least in the past... My question is between two specific ones.... A stanless modern one (also have it's matching stainless drop pipe Frome the manifold to the muffler). I'm wondering if the cast iron ended ones, might be quieter than a my stainless one? Likely not much to know, until I purchase a cast ended one and try myself, I suspect.
For purposes if this discussion, I'm not much interested in the tractor, glass pack, or Farm and Fleet variants.
Thanks,
Dennis
Re: muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:21 am
by blgitn
Dennis,
My experience is that the style where the exhaust pipe goes through the muffler to the aft end is slightly quieter than the new style replacements, where the pipe stops at the forward end.
Both those styles, with pressed steel ends, are prone to unexpected disassembly underway if you have a backfire. Before I replaced my ignition switch I got pretty good at putting them back together.
Once I got a modern compact car muffler from my local parts store and installed it with an adapter and a short tailpipe. It was the quietest and didn't come apart with a backfire. It was still on my RPU I when I sold it. I'm sorry I didn't write down the part number.
I am about to install a dual exhaust manifold. I'm interested in the glasspack style from tractor supply mentioned here recently. I've been searching for the post, unsuccessfully.
R/ Roger.
Re: muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:45 am
by Humblej
The repro original style steel end mufflers and exhaust pipes are fine. I welded the steel ends to the outermost muffler tube to keep from having to reassemble them after a backfire. All gets held on by the manifold nut, exhaust pipe clamp at the front of the muffler, and one bolt on the muffler ear to the frame, no additional hangers or clamps needed. The inner muffler tube can twist in the front muffler end and bolts to the rear center of the muffler, this allows for frame twisting even with the manifold packing nut and the exhaust pipe firmly fastened to the front of the muffler. This arrangement, which is as close to how it was done in the factory, has lasted me over 15 years and counting. The only difference between the modern repro stamped end steel mufflers and the original is the original exhaust pipe went all the way thru the muffler and bolted to the back center of the rear stamped steel end. But since they dont come that way now, you fasten the repro exhaust pipe to the short stub pipe sticking out of the front of the repro muffler. If you do not have a way of brazing the muffler together, bring it over and I will do it for you.
Re: muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 12:13 pm
by Mark Gregush
If not done so already on the one you have, at least tack weld along the outer shell seam as was done at the factory that was spot welded.
Re: muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:02 pm
by dhosh
Thanks, all!!
I just got my engine back from quick transmission run-through to fix my tight bushing tolerances. When I get it back in, I'll put my stainless repro back on, until I find another cast iron end set. The one in classifieds appears sold.
Thanks Jeff! I sold my gas torch setup, when I moved back to Petoskey. I have a map gas torch, but haven't tried brazing with it, yet!
Thanks!!
Re: muffler s - revisit...
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 7:48 am
by Tim Rogers
In all the years I have owned and driven Model Ts I have never had one backfire- what am I doing wrong?