MTFCA Forum

I recently purchased a 25 Roadster Pickup. Here is a short walk around video of it. The fuel line is pinched flat and not routed correctly. Can someone show me pictures of how the fuel line should be routed? Here is a short walk around video of the pickup. More questions too follow, I am sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yYIPz9RI2Y

She's a beauty, Scott.

Wow that one looks so shiny and new. Makes mine look rough

Very nice looking machine!. There are many differing opinions on the routing of the fuel line, but basicly it should go from the sediment bulb across the exhaust pipe to the right frame rail and down to a clamp on the frame rail by the brake cross shaft and up through the corner of the wood block at the engine support to the carburetor. I will post some pictures of how I routed mine and it works fine without a problem.
1. The only filter in the system should be the sediment bulb at the bottom of the gas tank. There is a fine screen inside the bulb.
2. The fuel line should cross over the exhaust pipe but not touching it. Some people put the line under the exhaust pipe. Mine is over it.
3. The lowest point in the line should be toward the middle. It should slope up toward the tank and toward the carburetor. It is important because a bubble in the center could rise to the top and the fuel would only compress the bubble and not flow through.
4. Some people like to put a valve next to the carburetor to shut off the gas when the car is parked. This is easier than crawling under the car every time you park to shut off the valve at the sediment bulb.
Now I will post pictures. I'm pretty sure you will also receive other pictues different from mine. But the 4 items I listed above are very important.
Norm

Very nice . I guess if I washed mine it would look better. Your floor mat looks better than mine as I had to cut and add the Ford logo. Where did you get yours ?

Here is a little bit on the history of this one. It was sold new in 1925 By Edwin Wohlgemuth, of Wolhlgemuth Motor Sales in Mellen WI, to Carl Messerli. Then in the 1950's either Edwin or his son Ernest bought it back from Carl. Then Robert Wolhgemuth, son of Ernest, had the restoration done in 2011. After his passing in 2018 the truck went to Sara Wolhgemuth. Sara, after 2 years of deliberation, decided to sell the truck. I bought it from her last month. The truck was photographed in the July 4th parade in 1925.

Absolutely beautiful. Thank you for sharing the photos and history.

That is a lovely thing. The only cosmetic change I would make is to paint those bolt heads.

No doubt those who are more pure than I am will disapprove, but I put my fuel line far under the exhaust pipe. I may have problems, but I don't think vapor lock will be one of them.


My fuel shut-off: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG106.html.

Another question. The build date on the engine #11969237 is 6/16/1925. It has the 26 style swivel top NH. Is that correct? Or, would it have had the older style carburetor controls?

Now that's a good looking T!

IMO the swivel top carb setup is correct, Ford was phasing in improved car features by mid model year 1925.

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 12, 2020 7:59 am

IMO the swivel top carb setup is correct, Ford was phasing in improved car features by mid model year 1925.

Something interesting to check out on mine sometime. My 25, with rectangular hinge and steel post at cowl and front door, is about the same date. If I didn't have the Wizard on it I would install the u-joint and see how it lines up. It came to me with the forked adjusting rod, but....?

Good luck on your new project. I may have the most authentic 25 pickup in the country, and can offer you advice if you are interested. First of all, your fuel line issue was covered on the forum within the last two weeks. Next, your top is not for a 25, and is installed incorrectly. Your tailgate, even though it looks good is from a Model A. I hope to hear from you!

I failed to mention, I added a set of authentic original Rocky Mountain brakes, and a Ruckstell, because I do a lot of touring. I also made a set of side curtains from NOS Ford script patterns I have. I've been keeping track of these pickups for years, and I'm up to 130, so yours makes 131. They are sweet vehicles to drive, and pretty comfortable too. How about taking a look at your bed strips in the pickup box. They should be convex in shape, and were only used in 1925.

I keep thinking of more things to add to your questions. Your carburetor adjustment is indeed correct for your car. That change occurred in about May I believe. A question I have is does your car have the tool tray in back of the gas tank? It's real handy for extra coils and side curtains. One more thing, the dimple for the carburetor adjustment rod was altered for the new style rod, and the diameter for the hole was increased from 3/16" to 1/4". The holes for the bell crank remained however.

Larry, please show us some pictures of original examples of these details that you claim are incorrect. I would like to learn more about the differences in these 25 RPU's. I believe that the bed strips are modern reproductions. What makes you say think that the top is is wrong? I will look under the seat, but am not sure what the tool tray is?
Here are pictures of the tailgate, bed strips and the dash.

1925 tops have a single rear window versus the dual window of 1923 and 1924.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1215021312

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1239027671

This is very interesting stuff! Anxious to learn the difference between the Model A & Model T tail gates.

I thought I had some photos of the bed strips, but I don't. Here is a photo of the inside of the pickup box. It should clarify things I hope. The general contour of the bed strips is the same as that of the battery trap door. What makes the tailgate a Model A? Look at your hinges carefully. Notice how the hinge is wrapped around and up to the bottom rivet? The Model T hinges were not that way. It was done because the T hinge is weak in that area, and prone to breaking. Your hinge solved that problem. I believe the change was made in 1929.

For definite clarification of the rear window on 1925 Roadsters and Tourings, see page 127 in Kreipke's Model T book. I am posting a photo of the tailgate on my pickup here. Keep the questions coming, I love it! You may also wish to look at the rare factory hidem welt tips on the top!

I will look under the seat when I get a chance. I see what you mean on the tail gate hinge. Here is are pictures of this one and the tailgate on my 27 RPU.

Can you show me the difference in the dash between the early and late carburetor controls?

Don't have a photo of a late '25 with the combo choke and carb adj rod, that would be a single rod that passes low thru the hole marked with the RED arrow. The rod goes to the dashboard from the carb, and has a sliding sleeve and a universal joint to allow the rod to pull and twist.

On the late firewall, the bell crank, BLUE arrow would be missing, that bell crank operates the choke to the carb via a rod with knob mounted on the dashboard inside the car. Also the YELLOW arrow shows the carb adj, rod, that operates the needle valve on the top of the carb, and that little rod with angle handle runs up under the dashboard, hard to reach and work.

The new Combo system put the choke and carb adjust to just the same knob on the dash, pull to choke, turn left or right to adjust carb.

The photo you have of your carburetor adjustment is correct. Should you need a photo of mine, just ask. BTW, you need to mount your horn in the correct position!

You mentioned that they modified the dimple in the dash in order to accommodate the new style rod. I would like to dash view pictures of the difference between the early and late control. How should the horn be mounted? It looks to have been welded on at some time.

The picture Dan posted shows the correct location of the horn. Also, refer to the 1925 Ford service book. It shows several views of the horn. It appears your horn is correct, but the bracket may have been altered? As far as the carburetor control, to the untrained eye, it's difficult to tell the difference. I mentioned above about the dimple being altered, and the diameter of the rod being increased 1/16. I still would like to know if your car has the package tray, or tool tray in back of the gas tank. Another thing I noticed, your car should have the new style '25 body with steel up front. Your check straps don't appear to be correct. Your car should have a check strap retainer, 1 3/16 X 1 3/8, with a hole through it for a #12 screw, and has a saw tooth appearance on one side. The other end is nailed to the inside of the door framework, under the cardboard door panel.

Here is the correct horn bracket for your car: https://www.modeltford.com/item/6437.aspx

Larry,

Is this the correct check strap retainer you refer to?

I just got home from work, have been working 7 days a week, and I lifted up the seat cushion. There is a compartment behind the gas tank. I will get more pictures when I find some time, please post as many as you want. The more the better!! The horn mount was probably modified when they installed the water pump. I plan to remove the pump, once I find the correct bolts for the water inlet. I am not sure what you mean by "new style '25 body with steel up front"?

Prior to 1925, the bodies had more wood up front in the door frame and kick panel area. Here is a view of my 1925 touring body showing the metal structure that replaced the earlier wood.

Welcome to the 25 rpu's. Love your truck!! Here is mine.

John: You need to find an original top for your car! Don't buy a repro, as I don't think they have the embossed locations for the common sense fasteners! I'll bet Daniel probably had one at one time. They even modified the front top socket in 1925 to allow the placement for more nails!

I would like to see more photos of the inside, especially the fit of the floormat. Ford even made a new floormat to accommodate the wide cowl body.

Jerry: Would you kindly post more photos of your rh kickpanel. It sure looks original to me. I believe they installed welting to the top of it, and down to the top of the retainer that is held on my the door hinge.

Larry, I have purchased my top and seat upholstery, can you show me the embossed locations so I can check and see if it is correct, and also the modified front top socket? Thanks.

John - it appears you have a '24 & earlier door hinge - '25 was a true rectangle as shown above in Cudaman's photo.

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 15, 2020 10:59 am

Jerry: Would you kindly post more photos of your rh kickpanel. It sure looks original to me. I believe they installed welting to the top of it, and down to the top of the retainer that is held on my the door hinge.

Larry,

I'll try. The panel may be original as you suspect, but it's also fairly warped. Hopefully something useful can still be gained...
If it is a replacement, it would have been done by my dad about 1950 and would have been a direct copy of the original panel. Dad would have been fussy about that.

Your photos of the kick panel shows me exactly what I was hoping to see! Thank you!

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 15, 2020 5:40 pm

Your photos of the kick panel shows me exactly what I was hoping to see! Thank you!

You're welcome! Happy to help.

Can anyone supply a photo of an original open car, wide cowl floormat used only in 1925?

Can anyone supply a photo of an original open car, wide cowl floormat used only in 1925?

This is a photo of the front top socket used from 23-25. The socket has a raised area, and is threaded for a 5-40 oval head slotted screw. They are used if you wish to use side curtains. The repros won't have this I think.

Here is a picture of underneath the seat. Is this the tray you are asking about?
Here is a picture of the dimple on the dash.

It appears you have the real deal! I suggest you obtain a copy of my article for the 2008? Vintage Ford. It has most of this stuff in the article. Some other things, note your car should have the '26 style dash tag with the clipped corners, and it may have the 26-7, 8 leaf front spring too. This spring lowers the front end 1" and at the same time adds one leaf. Even though the 25 appears to be the same as a 24, they were quite different.

What type of mirror would be right? Mine has no mirrors at all. It is difficult to see behind you when pulling out into traffic.

Scott, an external mirror would be an accessory, so the field is wide open. I would look for ant mirror head with a ball adjustment at the back. This could be attached near the top of the windscreen pillar on the LH side. It could be fitted with a fabricated bracket and arm. attached by the windscreen wingnut, for easy removal if required. On our colonial bodied cars, most have a wooden filler board on the front hood bow to close the gap between the bow and the windscreen. This is an ideal mounting point for a mirror.

Allan from down under.

A true 1925 will have three factory holes in the upper windshield frame. Two are for the Ford accessory r.v. mirror, and the other is for the Ford accessory hand operated w.s. wiper.

What water inlet bolts would be correct? The early flat, or the later domed head bolts?

Scott, you two windows in the rear curtain appear somewhat low. If the holes Larry mentioned are in the top windscreen, an inside accessory mirror may not line up for a tall driver. An accessory mirror would at least fill the holes.

Allan from down under.

Not only are the two windows in the rear curtain too low, the whole rear curtain is incorrect. It's an easy fix, but you have to have knowledge of installing tops. If you can locate the same top material you have, perhaps Mike Francis at Classtique can make you one. I made the whole top on my '25, and made the correct rear window for it, and installed it in the correct location. Check Bruce's book, and it will show you the correct rear curtain for a 25 roadster. You may even be able to stitch the center part into the existing example.

The top is either ripped or pulled out form the body on the right side just behind the window opening. So, I will probably have to repair , or replace it. Does anyone have an opinion on witch water inlet bolts would be correct??

Scott C. wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:20 am

Does anyone have an opinion on which water inlet bolts would be correct??

At risk of being corrected by someone who knows far more than I do, I'll state that the domed head bolts are usually considered as being for 26/27 cars. I would use the hex head bolts with the flat top. If they should happen to come with the usual lines & numbers in the top, as many newly manufactured bolts do, I would carefully grind those off. Would also wire wheel away any type of plating, such as cadmium or zinc.

The water inlet bolts you want are easy to find. I always buy cans of bolts from swap meets, so I'll have bolts when I need them. I doubt if you will have any problem finding originals.

I found and bought both type of bolts. They should be here next week.

Way to go Scott. Fit one of each and you will be at least half correct

Allan from down under.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:06 pm

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 12, 2020 7:59 am

IMO the swivel top carb setup is correct, Ford was phasing in improved car features by mid model year 1925.

Something interesting to check out on mine sometime. My 25, with rectangular hinge and steel post at cowl and front door, is about the same date. If I didn't have the Wizard on it I would install the u-joint and see how it lines up. It came to me with the forked adjusting rod, but....?

Well I did some checking and date check. My 1925 is a March build. Does not look like things would line up for the pull/turn adjuster. It has all the old style holes for choke and needle adjuster. Could things have been changed some were in it history, maybe, but gut says it has not.

Try to remember, your car is only a 1925 Roadster, with a one year only pickup box bolted on. I've owned two of these pickups. Correct any problems you may have one step at a time, and in time, it will be correct.

I had some free time this morning, so I removed the windshield frames. There was a gap between the top and bottom glass. The bottom is just a piece of plexiglass. It appears to be too short. I am thinking that, maybe, I should replace both the bottom and the top glass. Does anyone have the correct measurements for the glass? I assume that any glass company should be able to cut me a proper size replacement?

Scott C. wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 12, 2021 1:05 pm

I had some free time this morning, so I removed the windshield frames. There was a gap between the top and bottom glass. The bottom is just a piece of plexiglass. It appears to be too short. I am thinking that, maybe, I should replace both the bottom and the top glass. Does anyone have the correct measurements for the glass? I assume that any glass company should be able to cut me a proper size replacement?

There is supposed to be a small gap between the top & bottom glass. A rubber weather strip fits in there. Do you still have the window channel that fits between the glass and the window frame? If so, treat it gently and do your best to preserve it. I don't believe reproductions are being made.

Scott C. wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 12, 2021 1:05 pm

Does anyone have the correct measurements for the glass? I assume that any glass company should be able to cut me a proper size replacement?

Here you are:

I assume that any glass company should be able to cut me a proper size replacement?

You assume correctly.

The lower panel appears to be about 1/4" too short. That is from the 2 caps that hold the glass in place. That left a large gap even with the rubber installed.

Thanks Dan, that is exactly what I need!

It appears that Dan Treace, as usual, has posted the correct information from the original Ford glass booklet. The fact that this car is a pickup has nothing to do with the windshield which is a standard runabout. What I've found out about glass recently, is the thickness is different than what was used originally, but the modern safety glass still works. Good luck on your project. The h rubber used between the upper and lower was especially made for this application, and the ends were flared out slightly on the originals to go over the caps on the ends. Wouldn't it be nice if someone could do that?

The rubber piece on this one was under the end caps. I assume because the glass was too short? Should I use any adhesive on the rubber, or just slip it in place?

I also have a '25 runabout with plate glass, and need to get around to putting AS1 laminated glass in it. I haven't been able to find any good pictures of what people are doing at the channels. I gather 1) the old plate glass is close to 7/32" and the new AS1 laminated glass is 1/4" and 2) the correct nickel-plated brass channels are not available in reproduction. I want AS1 laminated glass (not AS2 or AS3), and I want to maintain the original look. So, if I reuse the old channel with AS1 does the channel go onto the glass as metal-on-glass with no bedding or tape? Does the slightly thicker glass need to be cut to slightly smaller dimensions (say 1/16" reduction in overall length and width)? Do the old channels need to be pinched down or relined with anything to ensure a snug fit (maybe not since the new glass is thicker than the old)? I've heard of people bedding glass in with RTV. It doesn't seem like there would be room for this in the channel unless they are using a thinner, AS2-style glass. Are they somehow not using the channel? Sorry, this was a lot of questions, but whenever I research this in the archives, I never feel like I get the whole picture.

Just don't worry....... your glass shop will fit the new panes to the original strip. Since you have plate glass in your windshield now, remove it by breaking in large pieces and then pull away leaving the original strip in place.

Then carefully pull it out of the windshield frame , take care at the corners as the strip is angle cut there for the bend, and flimsy like a noodle, and that spot can be real weak.

Then refinish your frame, and stanchions. Replace the strips carefully. Clean and paint the glass clamps or clips on the ends of the frame, or new ones, but they are a bit costly and fit isn't exact but just ok. For the original strips, I just carefully scrape the inside of the strip where the glass pane goes with a screwdriver blade, and straighten any bends if there. Paint the strips with alum spray paint, silver or alum color so it resembles the original nickel finish.

Take your frames with strips installed to the glass shop, they will fit the glass into the strips so the glass now is contained in the strip, and that assembly is pushed into the frame. Have done it several times. Once on my own by buying glass from Mac's. They have on line glass already cut to fit the T windshields for the open cars, panes are $114 each now. Ordered mine 10 years ago and they were less. The blue '24 I did 2 years ago, and had a local shop install both panes. Think the cost was $160, out the door, install and tax.


Finished safety plate glass, by the glass shop, safety plate is better than tempered, as if it gets cracked it can still function, you don't see the poly film between the glass sheets anyway.
Poor photo, but this the install years ago on Nellie, the '23 barn look cut-off. The glass was ordered from Macs, and it slipped in place with ease.

Thanks, Dan. I think part of my problem was/is the terminology. You referred to the larger, painted steel piece as the channel and the thinner brass, nickeled piece as the strip. What piece part is the "glass clips?" Is there any tape or buffer between the strip and glass? Is there any tape or buffer between the channel and strip? When I hear about people bedding in glass with RTV, are they eliminating the strip?

namdc3 wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 13, 2021 3:17 pm

Thanks, Dan. I think part of my problem was/is the terminology. You referred to the larger, painted steel piece as the channel and the thinner brass, nickeled piece as the strip. What piece part is the "glass clips?" Is there any tape or buffer between the strip and glass? Is there any tape or buffer between the channel and strip? When I hear about people bedding in glass with RTV, are they eliminating the strip?

This is the glass clip,
As for bedding with RTV. I've seen it done with & without the "strip". Either way, it always seems to look bad. (Maybe it can be done well. But, the bad ones are the ones I see I guess.)

I have seen tape used when the replacement glass appears to be too thin to fit snug. I beleive the tape used is a special one, made for that purpose, but I could be wrong there.

Nikolaus

Jerry pointed out the ‘glass clip”. That end piece is held with a flush flat head machine screw. Originals pulled off seem to have a small piece of bedding tape inside the clip or cap to cushion on the glass edge. Not too much, as the clips or clamps can’t be too high over the windshield frame or the two halves of the frame can’t swing over.

To me the original channel or strip should be used in the frame to secure the glass, just doesn’t look right without. Except of course the Improved Car, 26-27, the open car windshield frames did not use a channel strip, the glass is secured in the frame with only “bedding tape”, used by glass setters, composite cushion like friction tape, most have cork in the composite. A good glass shop will have bedding tape. Don’t use RTV, too rigid, the glass pane has to ‘float’ a bit, or will crack.

P.s. Just modified my prior post to describe to fit the glass pane to the strip first, then push the assembled glass/strip into the frame.

Thanks to you both. I didn't mean to highjack the thread, so apologies to the OP. I believe that 1/4" is as thin as AS1 comes, but I think some people use AS2, which does come thinner, either because it is cheaper or fits tight strips/channels better. I intend to use AS1. Thanks again! If I run into more questions, I'll start a thread.

Please do not feel that you are high jacking this thread. That is exactly why it is here, to share questions and information on anything regarding a 1925 RPU, or any other T.

I haven't checked out getting the glass channel nickel plated, but they did it originally, probably in long strips before it was bent.

I picked up the new lower windshield yesterday. The bill came to $99.77. They used my existing brass seal. Now, my question is about the rubber seals. How long should the lower rubber be, where it enters the stanchions? Does the top rubber piece just set there? Or, should it be glued on? Should there be any rubber seals mounted in the stanchions?

The lower rubber seal sits on the cowl, and extends just barely into the stanchion. The lower frame holds it in place, but you could add just a small amount of auto trim adhesive on the cowl to keep it there.

The H rubber just sits on the lower glass upper edge. Mount it so you can swing the upper frame without knocking it away. Normally you swing the upper frame in, so the edge seals the rain when the upper glass is over the lower glass. A small amount of trim adhesive on the glass edge is ok once you have it trimmed and placed to satisfaction.

The side stanchions have rubber seal strip at the top that is pulled into the channel in the stanchion. Trim to length, one on each side. Trim that flush with the glass clips or the swinging upper frame will get stuck. Trick to get that into the channel is a dab of silicone grease, allow you to pull the rubber seal in place.

Scott C. wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:34 pm

I picked up the new lower windshield yesterday. The bill came to $99.77. They used my existing brass seal. Now, my question is about the rubber seals. How long should the lower rubber be, where it enters the stanchions? Does the top rubber piece just set there? Or, should it be glued on? Should there be any rubber seals mounted in the stanchions?

The rubber seal between the upper & lower pane has an "h" cross section. It simply slips over the lower pane. With the upper pane closed, the seal can't come off. With the upper open, the seal should grip the lower section enough to stay put. The length is trimmed to just come up to the caps at each end of the lower section. It does not "enter the stanchions". No seals I'm aware of in the stanchions, but there is a rubber seal between the lower window frame and the cowl.

I see now the Dan beat me to it. His directions are "spot on".

I bought some brass channel a few years ago, cut it to fit my frame, then used a Caswell Brush Plating kit to nickel plate it (after I polished the brass) and it came out great. Haven't installed it yet, so no idea how long it will last, but it IS nickel plating, and I put it on "thick" so it should be good for a long while. I think their plating kit is under $50 and you can plate other stuff with it (like side rods on my American Flyer S gauge trains).

I got the windshield installed. I had to loosen the stanchion screws in the process. One of them does not tighten down. What type of nut should it have on the inside of the cowl?

The lower windshield frame nests into the stanchions, so you have to loosen them to install or remove.

The upper nut for the oval head nickel plated screw is a square nut with lockwasher, as that one is rather easy to reach.

The lower nut for that oval head nickel plated screw is a special one, long rectangular. The shape allows it to slide into the narrow gap, and the length keeps it from turning as you drive the screw home.

Of course the two outer stanchion bolts are carriage head, with washer and small lock washer and hex head nut inside, both clamp over the upper kick panel cardboard, to keep it in place.

I see why the bolt will not tighten back up. There is no nut. Someone put a glob of JB Weld up in there instead of the nut!

Do any of the vendors sell the correct screws?

Keep in mind the '25 pickup is nothing but a standard '25 runabout, with the new '25 only bed bolted to it. Somewhere I have the list that gives all the bolts needed to install the metal bed. Some of the carriage bolts used are not available, and need to be modified to be exactly right. I noticed above somebodies car has a Model A tailgate on it. They obviously work, but are not correct. It's all in the details, so it depends how interested you are in them!

What are the dimensions of that special rectangular nut?

Check the forum, unknown part 1924. I posted the dimensions yesterday.

Thanks, Larry. I found it!

Here are the dimensions of the last two NOS nuts I have. They can be easily made.
Long: 1 1/2" X 7/16" X 1/4". Short 1" X 7/16" X 1/4". Both are threaded 1/4-20. Oval head slotted screws are used.

Hello everyone,

I'm new to the forum, but have been driving T's for years. My latest addition is a 1925 roadster that came with the box, but not installed. the box was in very rough condition but I've gotten it mostly straightened out, made new wood, and want to get it attached to the roadster. does anyone have the instructions that would have come with the box when new? anyone have some images showing the underside of the box and how it mounts? looking at the images, there appears to be a way to mount my spare tire under the box in the back? I'd really like to figure that part out too.

I've looked around the forum a few times. lots of great info out here, just can't seem to locate a thread on how to mount the box or how it attaches. Is there anyone out here who can provide the info our give me a little help on where to find it? every little piece of information is appreciated. I look forward to learning more about the first factory pick-up ford made!

Travis

I think if you start a new post that is not so long you will get more answers. Just title it differently.

I bet Larry has the correct answers. But, I can get some pictures of how mine is mounted, when I get a chance.

The pickup box should be put on with CARE! The center strip must be firmly bolted to the rear sill of the body. Most of these have been removed, because most beds have been made into trailers. There is only about 1/4" between the front of the bed, and the back panel of the body. Without looking, there are three bolts across the back, and three on each side. I hung a moving pad over the back panel just in case of a problem, and had about three guys on each side to help me lower it onto the rear deck. Take your time on this. There is no room for error!

Larry

Thanks for the info, wish I have a good photo of the attachments for the '25 bed. The '26 bed differs as it has an outward flange that rides on top of the runabout all metal side sill, with long bolts vertical.

As I understand, the '25 bed has 'aprons' on the side that wrap down the outside of the '25 runabout deck. And bolts go horizontal into the metal covered wood frame rail or sill?
'25 bed. Do the arrows show the mounting points for horizontal bolts?

'26-'27 bed rides on top of the all metal sill.

Yes, the arrows point to the correct mounting bolt holes. Note the two in the rear are the standard body to frame bracket, and the half moon avoids the lower bolt. If your sills haven't been drilled don't do it until you get the bed installed, and make sure it's laying absolutely flat before drilling.

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm going to have to figure out how to post a separate forum item...
Seems odd that it's just those few side bolts that would be enough to mount the box, but it's a good start. Might make more sense once I set it on the back.

You have the bolts thru the side rails, But they are bolts thru the metal strips in the bed and thru the wood platform under the floor of the bed,

Here are two photos of my 1925 Pickup on a tour this week. She turned over 8,000 miles on this tour.

I removed the water pump today. I bought the 27" belt that the vendors sell as correct for 25 and it is too short. What length of belt should be correct for a 25?

Are you running the stock fan & pulley configuration ? I don't see the fan arm attached to the timing cover on any of your photos posted up top - is the fan mounted on the cylinder head outlet ?

No, it does not have the same setup as my 26. It has the arm and an adjustment bolt on the timing cover.

Re-check the parts to be sure correct for '25 as the 27" belt is what fits with stock parts. The arm, fan pulley and the crank pulley size can affect belt needs.

And adjust the arm holding the fan pulley so the blade rides toward the lower the face of the radiator for best cooling, the blade should just clear the lower pipe/hose by an inch or so.