Replacing door glass in 1927 coupe
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BLB27
Topic author - Posts: 878
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
- MTFCA Number: 31192
Replacing door glass in 1927 coupe
Where can I obtain information on how to replace the door glass in my coupe?
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jab35
- Posts: 896
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:28 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Bartsch
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '26 Coupe
- Location: Dryden, NY 13053
- MTFCA Number: 30615
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Replacing door glass in 1927 coupe
Wasn't this discussed back in early Oct? In reviewing that series of posts, this 2008 article by Jeff Humble answers the question:
By Jeff Humble on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 11:51 am:
When I replaced the glass in my 26 coupe I removed the regulator first. Robert's method sounds good too, but this is what I did.
With the window down , loosen up the old channels like Robert describes. Run the window all the way up and remove the 3 regulator screws, push regulator inside the door and let it drop to the bottom of the door. You will need to prop up the window so it does not fall. Lower the window enough to see the slot in the glass retaining strip and slide the regulator off the strip and remove from the door. Now you have no interference with removing the glass, lift up and while tiliting the top it should slide out easily.
The replacement glass channel is not exactly right, you will need to trim the length and it is slightly wider than the metal retaining strip in the lower part of the door. I had to work the new channel to get a good fit. Rivet the clip to the top end of the channel to hook into the door frame and do a trial fit without the glass. I used a sheet metal screw instead of a hook at the bottom of the channel, it allowd me to install it tighter. OK, once your channel has been fit up slide the glass in and run it to the bottm. Now you can hook the top of the channel into the door. Now raise the glass and fasten the lower end of the channel into the door with a sheet metal screw or hook. Once the glass is in, reinstall the regulator by lowering the door to see the retainer strip, slide the end of the regulator into the strip, push the window all the way up, and put the regulator into the door. Reinstall the trim and door panel.
Once the glass is out you shoud verify it is safety glass and inspect the glass retaining strip on the bottom edge of the door. If you need to replace it order the model A 28-29 pick-up retaining strip not the new Model T strip, it is wrong. The retaining strip has a recess for a rubber weatherstrip, it is the same as the closed car windshield weatherstrip. You need to put it on when the glass goes in the channel. I had a glass company install a new retainig strip on new safety glass but did not give them the weatherstrip, I was unable to install it afterwards so I left it off. This is not the glass setting tape which has to be used to attach the retainig strip to the glass, this is a rubber piece that seals the door when the window is up. My original was rock hard and had to be broken into pieces to allow the window to come out of the door.
The upper glass channel goes on last, I know you do not have one, but when you do, there are 3 floating nuts in the top of the door that the strip screws to. If the nuts are missing you can use a U type tinnerman nut.
The metal door trim that goes around the window opening slides over a sheet metal track on the front and back pillar of the door and has 3 trim screws at the top. There is also a pocket for a heel shaped rubber door bumper that goes on the top edge of the door. These are all available as reproductions for the 28-29 Model A pick-up and are high quality. If you need more information on any of these let me know and I will describe further.
By Jeff Humble on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 11:51 am:
When I replaced the glass in my 26 coupe I removed the regulator first. Robert's method sounds good too, but this is what I did.
With the window down , loosen up the old channels like Robert describes. Run the window all the way up and remove the 3 regulator screws, push regulator inside the door and let it drop to the bottom of the door. You will need to prop up the window so it does not fall. Lower the window enough to see the slot in the glass retaining strip and slide the regulator off the strip and remove from the door. Now you have no interference with removing the glass, lift up and while tiliting the top it should slide out easily.
The replacement glass channel is not exactly right, you will need to trim the length and it is slightly wider than the metal retaining strip in the lower part of the door. I had to work the new channel to get a good fit. Rivet the clip to the top end of the channel to hook into the door frame and do a trial fit without the glass. I used a sheet metal screw instead of a hook at the bottom of the channel, it allowd me to install it tighter. OK, once your channel has been fit up slide the glass in and run it to the bottm. Now you can hook the top of the channel into the door. Now raise the glass and fasten the lower end of the channel into the door with a sheet metal screw or hook. Once the glass is in, reinstall the regulator by lowering the door to see the retainer strip, slide the end of the regulator into the strip, push the window all the way up, and put the regulator into the door. Reinstall the trim and door panel.
Once the glass is out you shoud verify it is safety glass and inspect the glass retaining strip on the bottom edge of the door. If you need to replace it order the model A 28-29 pick-up retaining strip not the new Model T strip, it is wrong. The retaining strip has a recess for a rubber weatherstrip, it is the same as the closed car windshield weatherstrip. You need to put it on when the glass goes in the channel. I had a glass company install a new retainig strip on new safety glass but did not give them the weatherstrip, I was unable to install it afterwards so I left it off. This is not the glass setting tape which has to be used to attach the retainig strip to the glass, this is a rubber piece that seals the door when the window is up. My original was rock hard and had to be broken into pieces to allow the window to come out of the door.
The upper glass channel goes on last, I know you do not have one, but when you do, there are 3 floating nuts in the top of the door that the strip screws to. If the nuts are missing you can use a U type tinnerman nut.
The metal door trim that goes around the window opening slides over a sheet metal track on the front and back pillar of the door and has 3 trim screws at the top. There is also a pocket for a heel shaped rubber door bumper that goes on the top edge of the door. These are all available as reproductions for the 28-29 Model A pick-up and are high quality. If you need more information on any of these let me know and I will describe further.