BUSHING FACING TOOL QUESTIONS?

[Quickm007]

Hi, any one have somme experience to share with the BUSHING FACING TOOL? Is it working well with a brass Drive shaft housing front bushing? I would like doing by myself without going in machine shop.

[Pep C Strebeck]

I can not comment on the one that you have shown (sold by the vendors), but I can say that the one that I have works very well.

I bought a surplus piloted spot-facer and the correct size pilot and was into it for less than half of what the one you have shown cost. I had the similar style (to the one that you show) for facing the spindle bushings on the front axle and I was not happy with the quality of that one. That is the reason that I got the one shown in the photos above.

[Andy Loso]

The catalog ones are junk, don't waste your money.

[Henry K. Lee]

As Andy and Joseph states, "Junk" is an understatement.

Hank

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

As Andy and Joseph states, "Junk" is an understatement.

Hank

Agreed! Having one of those will inspire you to come up with something far better on your own.

[Dan B]

Then why do they sell them.

[AZTerry]

Why do they sell them? Because people buy them. I do not use them even though I have one.
Many years ago I made a bushing (reference bushing) that just slips into the end of the drive shaft tube.
I also cut the flange down so that it is typically thinner than needed.
I install that bushing and then measure drive shaft end play with a dial indicator.
I them measure the difference between my reference bushing and the bushing I am going to install.
If the bushing is to thick, I take the appropriate amount off the face in my lathe.
If to thin I add a shim behind the shoulder.

I know this is not real detailed but I hope it helps.

Terry

[RajoRacer]

It all depends on the material one is attempting to face or ream. I've used the currently available facer on NOS Babbitt d.s. bushings and it cuts satisfactorily but not so on the current brass bushings. I have a Stevens facer also.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Why do they sell them? Because people buy them. I do not use them even though I have one.
Many years ago I made a bushing (reference bushing) that just slips into the end of the drive shaft tube.
I also cut the flange down so that it is typically thinner than needed.
I install that bushing and then measure drive shaft end play with a dial indicator.
I them measure the difference between my reference bushing and the bushing I am going to install.
If the bushing is to thick, I take the appropriate amount off the face in my lathe.
If to thin I add a shim behind the shoulder.

I know this is not real detailed but I hope it helps.

Terry

Exactly how I do it!

[dmdeaton]

I assume you guys using the same process for the spindle bushings? I had the thrust cutter the vendors sell and again it is junk. I guess I will look for a piloted counterbore in the right size. Unless I get a better idea from you all.

[RGould1910]

A number of folks including myself use either epoxy, loctite or jb weld after cutting down the od the bushing so it slips into the torque tube. Since the bushing can be removed before gluing it in place, you can cut down the flange until it fits . When you glue it in, you first insert the driveshat to align it. It works very well. You can do the same with spindle bushings and the 3rd cam bushing, using the kingpins and camshaft to align the bushing as the glue dries. A good fix to a stubborn problem.

[SMHnat]

I think i stuck the tool in a drill once and it worked far better. The handel presses out pretty easily. I use my lathe now to face bushings.

[Stephen_heatherly]

That tool may work ok on babbit bushings but it requires a lot of pressure to cut the brass bushings by hand. I face most of the material off in the lathe and then install the bushing and sneak up on the fit with the tool shown in a drill.

Stephen