MTFCA Forum

I'm about to pull the engine on my 1915 Center Door, do I need to remove the fire-wall/hood former in order to get it out? If I remove the reverse and brake pedals and lay the clutch down, will I be able to pull it out with out removing the fire wall?
Thanks,
Dave

You may have trouble bringing the motor mount arms past the firewall unless it's removed.

The rear arms of the engine pain will not go past the firewall brackets. Suggest you unbolt the firewall brackets and some of the body brackets and lift the body and firewall up just enough to slide the engine forward.

There appears to be enough clearance for the arms to slide under the Firewall/hood former. I've removed the firewall brackets. It looks like the only problem is getting the pedals past the firewall.
I'm reluctant to remove the hood former for fear of messing up the paint where the hood former meets the cowel.

Dave

Dave, I remember meeting you at one of the Model T tours on the South Shore with Ann and Bill Stafford. My suggestion is have at it. John

Don't bother with the hood former. Here's what I do on my 1915 runabout:
1 Detach fuel line, remove carb.
2 Undo exhaust nut.
3 Remove head lamps. Yes, I know you can work around them, but I want them out of the way.
4 Remove plug wires, detach timer wires, and remove coil box. Pull the timer cover. You can leave the wires on it.
5 Remove radiator. I detach the inlet and outlet from the block and leave all the hoses in place on the radiator. Easy to reinstall.
6 Undo the steering column and set the steering wheel back on the seat.
7 Unbolt the firewall brackets from the frame. You can leave them on the firewall.
8 Remove hood shelves & engine pans.
9 Remove the four front body bolts and loosen the two rear ones.
10 Remove the pan arm bolts and the two #3078 front bearing cap screws.
11 Raise the front of the body and set it on a couple of 2 x 4 blocks.
12 Undo and lower the wishbone.
13 Detach the DS behind the transmission.
14 Use the hoist to raise the front of the engine enough to slide it forward. As you move the engine forward raise its front more and more until the pedals are low enough to move under the firewall. There's no need to remove the firewall or remove the pedals or hogshead in the car.

Leave the firewall and hood former on the body. The hardest part is unbolting the firewall brackets from the frame and you apparently have already done that. After the firewall brackets, there are a whole six main body bolts holding the body onto the chassis. Three on each side. One each side near the front, about a foot back from the firewall brackets, one near the door in the center of each side, and one each side near the back of the body directly over the rear axle.
The four (two each side) towards the front, behind the firewall and under the door, need to be unbolted completely. A couple of your favorite wrenches of appropriate size and a few minutes under the car. Easy task. The rear two, over the rear axle, need to be loosened, about two turns is enough. Also not difficult.
Disconnect the drag link/tie rod from the steering column, and unbolt the bracket from the frame. Loosening the steering column from the firewall may also help, however I and others have often managed to leave it tight, and work it out from the frame rail.
Lift just the front of the body. Only about two inches (often a bit less) is all it takes. I have done this by myself a few times, and helped others a few times as well. A few small wooden blocks, a tire iron or two, and lifting the front of the body that much is easy for one person.
The lifting of the front of the body that small amount shouldn't cause any real problems with the fenders or other attachments (do check for adequate slack in the timer wiring).

One caution (beyond always working safely!). If your body and doors were in good alignment and working really well? Be sure that you get any and all shims, washers and/or etceteras back just as they were.
Most model T people, when working on 1910s era Ts, once they bite the bullet and lift the front of the body to move engines in or out? Never want to fiddle-fart around trying to avoid it again.

This has been my experience with this task.

Looks like Steve J snuck in while I was typing and being interrupted a few times.
He always gives excellent advice.

The only thing I could add to Steve and Wayne's answer would be to pick it up by the nose. A little lift, pull forwards, lift , pull forwards, lift, pull forwards, half a twist and stick the landing! Got to do it twice in a month. Instant expert!

I made this lifter for raising the front of the body. Makes it easy.

Thanks guys for all the on point advice.
It is alway so rewarding to chat with people that actually know what they are talking about!

Dave

Steve, that is a fantastic body lifter that you made. It may not be a bad idea to put a rag or something on the wood firewall before lifting to keep that 100 year old wood from shattering. I always removed the firewall on my 18 when I removed the motor but I was not concerned with damaging paint of the hoodformer bolts. Frank

Frank, it has inner tube padding. I think the firewall is only 45-50 years old, so it is solid.