MTFCA Forum

I have been trying to remove my steering wheel for months now and it is just stuck on the shaft. I have tried everything short of a torch or a 1000 lb press. Does anyone have any tips?

Good 2 jaw or better yet a 3 jaw puller.

Remove the nut, and then apply lots of penetrating oil, Kroil or P B Blaster to the threaded areas, if the threads are rusted, wire brush away the heavy rust to let the fluid sink in, let is sit awhile, but soak it!

Then apply puller, use a mallet and tap on the puller shaft, then tighten and the wheel spider will pop off.

what is a 3 jaw puller? i have soaked it in pb blaster and used a tool identical to what you're showing and still couldn't get it off.

Didn’t you ask something about a locking wheel?
Some of them are different than stock Ford wheels.

What I did was to remove the wheel from the gear box.
Then with that smaller unit I was able to get some support under the steering wheel and a punch to drive the gear shaft out.
Took a little time getting it set up. Didn't want to mess up the steering wheel.
Soaking it with PB blast or the penetrating oil of your choice.
Just a few good hits and the gear shaft was free from the wheel.

I agree with Steve that it's easier to work on with the steering wheel/gear cover out of the car. If Jonah had a regular gearbox, the cover can simply be unscrewed to remove the wheel assembly. However, he has a steering wheel lock.

Jonah, does your lock device thread onto the gearcase like a normal gear cover? If it does, unscrew it and the wheel with the sun gear will come out together.

Jonah D'Avella wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 17, 2020 8:50 am

what is a 3 jaw puller? i have soaked it in pb blaster and used a tool identical to what you're showing and still couldn't get it off.

Jonah

A 3 -jaw give a bit more grip, using 3 points of pulling power. But a strong 2 jaw should work. Check to see how rusted the spider is underside, really soak the center of that steering post pinion, and tap on it to get the fluid to soak down deep between the spider and the post, keep soaking and tapping as the vibrations allow the fluid to do its thing to lubricate and cut thru the rust holding the spider.


But be sure the center point of the puller shaft isn't resting on the spider, it has to rest on the pinion post to effect a solid pull

When using a puller tighten with the center shaft, then hit hard 3 strikes, and then tightened the shaft again with a large wrench on the hex of the shaft, apply lots of pressure, and knock hard with a 5 lb mallet. The shock is what you need to 'pull' that spider off the post.


Your locking wheel accessory cover isn't holding the spider, that spider is held to the post with a key, and a tight fit of the spider and the post.

i have unscrewed the steering spider and lock and sun gear but i still cant get it off.

OK. One way would be to fixture under the spider arms so they are supported close to the hub of the spider. The arms are weak but the riveted hub is the strong area, so make a fixture to fit there.

The use a punch and drive out the pinion post that is likely locked in that heavy cast iron cover, leaving the steering wheel spider resting on that solid fixture you made.

Follow Dan advices but use of Brass Hammer is prefered here to avoid any damage...

Try to work some of the penetrating oil into the keyway. If you can get to the back side of the wheel try to work some into the area from the back and turn upside down to get it to slowly penetrate the back side. Do all which was posted above.
Now I will tell you a story about my uncle. His story is just the opposite of yours. From the time I remember him, his nose was crooked. It went to one side. He told me that he had driven a Model T into the mountains for a camping trip. The steering wheel came off just as he was turning a corner and he rolled the car off the road. He had broken his nose! He survived, but by the time he could see a doctor, the doctor said, " Your nose has healed and I would have to break it again to straighten it" So that's how it happened. My father had a similar experience, however he was able to get the wheel back on before he rolled the car. I don't know whether it was the same T. So anyway, your car was much safer to drive than theirs was.
I hope you can get it off. Let us know when you do.
Norm

How does a 3 jaw puller work on a four spoke steering wheel?

Jonah D'Avella wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 17, 2020 8:50 am

what is a 3 jaw puller? i have soaked it in pb blaster and used a tool identical to what you're showing and still couldn't get it off.

A three jaw puller is just like the one with two jaws that Dan posted a photo of, except it has three jaws spaced like a triangle. Works the same way but provides more support.

How does a 3 jaw puller work on a four spoke steering wheel?

My question too. None of my three-jaw pullers are adjustable to fit a four spoke steering wheel as well as a two-jaw.

Jonah, suggest you post some pictures of the wheel so others can see what you have.

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 17, 2020 12:02 pm

Jonah, suggest you post some pictures of the wheel so others can see what you have.

Good idea.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 17, 2020 11:43 am

How does a 3 jaw puller work on a four spoke steering wheel?

My question too. None of my three-jaw pullers are adjustable to fit a four spoke steering wheel as well as a two-jaw.

Right you guys are. Two jaw for the job, thinking was off

A 3 jaw can work but that dangling third jaw needs some help!

There is enough play in a three jaw puller to work well. All good advice above. Especially penetrating oil, and patience.

here are some pics

Your small gear puller is a bit undersized but might work.

A larger puller and strikes with a 2lb mallet will get it off. Tighten the puller shaft fully by cranking on the hex head with a big wrench.

If all else fails take a torch to the stuck pinion and heat it , that can help separate the spider from the pinion.

Believe it or not, iodine is supposed to help better than anything with seized/rusted threaded things.
To prove it, I watched a construction dude at our dock at Kelley Island where I used to pull up the excursion
boat I piloted many years ago do this on an excavator that sat out in all kinds of weather. He needed to unbolt
something, can't remember, but it worked. Give it a try. Keep applying some down the threads of an afternoon,
let it sit overnight and hammer the crap out of it the next day. It just may break free!

Sometimes an air impact driver on the puller will jar a stubborn items loose. also be careful not to destroy the threads.

If you are going to hammer on the puller, put some wood under the spider as close as possible to the center so you won’t break the steering wheel rim. That would make it all garbage and you would have to buy a new steering wheel and shaft. That would be one solution to your problem, new everything. My .02 cents. Frank

Need two more pictures, like I have shown, to make sure we understand what is holding the wheel from coming off. Since you have a wheel lock there may be something unnoticed. Question: The housing of the wheel lock is still attached - is it fixed to the wheel or can it turn freely?

Soak it with Kroil. Walk away. Come back 24 hours later and try again. Kroil works, but it needs time. www.kanolabs.com

Thank you all so much for your tips! Using your advice, I was able to get it free!

Still you are new to T’s, I would suggest you get rid of that locking wheel for now. They have been known to cause wrecks. Just some advice, do not want anyone hurt. Dan

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 17, 2020 3:34 pm

Still you are new to T’s, I would suggest you get rid of that locking wheel for now. They have been known to cause wrecks. Just some advice, do not want anyone hurt. Dan

Good advice especially since he described it "ratcheting" in one direction and "locking" in the other AND we don't know what it was designed to do.

I admit I’ve never had a stuck steering wheel, but it’s good you took it slowly. Better to do that than overuse a big hammer and forever regret it.
I think this is an apco T ford steering wheel puller. I hope I’ll be corrected if not.