MTFCA Forum

Here is a setup I used on my 1925, to convert it to a stoplight. I'm using a factory taillight and license plate bracket. The bulb is used for Model A cowl lights to convert them to turn signals. I have to file one tab off the bulb to do this. I don't know why Snyder had to put an offset tab on this bulb, but that's Snyder for you! The license plate bracket is a Ford product, but must have been made after Model T production. It has a socket just like the headlights. If you hold it up to a light, you can see through it. I use a double filament pronged plug, which is spring loaded and old stock too. A single wire plug is available too. I've seen these at swap meets for years, especially at Chickasha. It works, but is not authentic, but looks like it. He is what I did with the extra wire going to the stop light. A '26-7 could be done the same way. It keeps the two wires together, and is old fashioned looking too. I used friction tape in a half dozen places, and used a piece of sheet metal, probably 20 or 22 gauge, 1/4" wide. Of course the wire in the example is not the correct color code, but you get the idea.

I don't know why Snyder had to put an offset tab on this bulb...

I bet they didn't. More likely they bought bulbs of the right size and voltage and didn't think about the tabs.

If these were the bulb you ordered from Snyders they specified for use with the socket they sell having offset pins. Model T sockets are designed for straight pins and dual filament bulbs have offset pins - done to prevent putting the wrong bulb in the wrong socket.

Don't bother with filing off the offset pin, just install it. I've had two bulbs ruined because the bayonet is thin and soft. When installing the bulbs, one pin crushed until flush with the body and cannot be repaired without excessive effort. The taillight on my '26 didn't have a socket when I got it. I installed a to 2-pin socket and it works great. But, the bulbs are junk and it took me three to get one to work.

This is not original, and should not be installed on a Model T for any reason. If Henry thought you needed a stop light he would have provided it.

Henry did provide an accessory taillight in 26-7, and that is the set up I used, except as you can see, I didn't use the taillight.

I was just giving you a hard time anyway.

Many dual filament bulbs have straight/parallel pins. such as the model T headlight bulbs. I have what appears to be a original 1926 tail light / stop light. It has a clear window for license plate lighting. it uses two single base contact bulbs with parallel pins. one high wattage bulb for stop and a lower wattage bulb for tail light. two straight through sockets that use headlight type single pin connector. I understand Stop lights were available on 26 /27 model Ts with the brake switch that mounts on the starter Bendix. The 1157 type bulb has off set pins and the 1156/1158 have parallel pins. dual filament automotive bulbs weren't introduced until the forties ?

The offset pins insure that the lower wattage running light and the higher wattage stop light align with the designated contact when the lamp is installed.

That’s quite a distance way under the pickup box. Have you thought of bringing it to a place where it might be more easily seen?

Mark Osterman wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 22, 2020 8:32 pm

That’s quite a distance way under the pickup box. Have you thought of bringing it to a place where it might be more easily seen?

I have to agree. Isn't there a 26-27 rear fender bracket?

I took some pictures yesterday of the components I used for this project. Will try to post them soon, but I'm painting fenders today.

Here are the photos of the parts I used to convert my stock 1925 taillight to a stop light. As I mentioned I can't see any difference between the original, and the one I used, except for the straight through socket. The one in the picture is not the one on the car, but is a spare that I have.

Here is the genuine Ford stoplight switch I used.