Lifting with aluminum head
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Topic author - Posts: 167
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- First Name: John
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Lifting with aluminum head
I am using a Z head on my engine. Would it by risky to to lift it with a spark plug eye bolt? I am thinking out would not be a good idea.
John
John
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I'm with you, John. I don't have any aluminum heads, but if I did, I'd find another way to lift it; maybe with a piece of chain with link holes just big enough to put a head bolt through and attach it to two head bolts on opposite sides of the head.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I have lifted them with two plug hole lifters. Dan
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I sling my motors.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
When removing or installing an engine, I use an engine tipper (sometimes called a cradle) using two bolts longer than the head bolts to insure greater tread engagement. I think tippers are available at the harbor fright.
Art Mirtes
Art Mirtes
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
John, I will not lift an engine with a spark plug lifting eye. I use a chain, one end bolted the the water inlet bolt hole and the other end bolted to the rear manifold clamp stud hole using grade 8 bolts. Puts a side load on bolts rather than a tension load on your spark plug threads. Good center of gravity with this set up too.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I had the same concern and asked my engine rebuilder, Tom Graham, about it. He told me "you can lift the whole car with one eyebolt." I didn't want to put that idea to the test so instead chose to use two lifting eyes in my Z-head, joined by a chain that ran thru the hook on my cherry picker. It worked great with no damage to the head. I would not hesitate to use that method again if I ever have to pull the engine.
1917 Touring
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1946 Aeronca Champ
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I have a 3 legged chain fall for lifting. One leg goes to a top water outlet bolt on the head, two others go to bolt holes on the pan rail either side of the transmission covet just aft of the pedals. The chains have fixed bolts on each end to fit their intended place. The gather point at the top can be adjusted to alter the tilt, but once set, I have never had to alter it.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I asked Ben when he owned Texas T Parts. I bought the plug eye from him. He called me back a couple of days after I asked the question. Evidently he or someone he knew did the calculations. Yes indeed you can do it with plenty of lift force to spare. I have used the process on many Z heads with no adverse results.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
To lift a Model T Engine , I use this :
Toon
Toon
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
Neat ideas, I use the plug lifting eyes but dislike the fact that they dont lift level. You have twice the thread engagement in a spark plug hole than a head bolt. I would make sure they are tight in a aluminum head. Pat the sling idea looks pretty versatile ( thats a neat fan) and I would like to know the offset Anthonie used to balance side to side. Tim which bolts do you use with the tipper? I find the tipper works best with three or four mountings otherwise tipping front to back throws the side to side off. but have never used mine on a T engine. They do work good on those funny overhead V configured engines. I loaned mine out once and it came back with the crank missing and a socket welded to it so you can use a cordless drill to tip it. Sometimes when you loan tools they come back better than they where, sometimes well you know!
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I use a coupe of long bolts into the block with a load equalizer. By turning the crank on the equalizer, I can get the engine just right to angle it in.
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I read somewhere that “Calculations” say it’s okay to lift the Engine with the single Spark Plug method but no way would i
or have I done that. Visually its all wrong and I use chains as others above have described. You need that assurance the load won’t drop when your wrestling with the engine.
Alan in Western Australia
or have I done that. Visually its all wrong and I use chains as others above have described. You need that assurance the load won’t drop when your wrestling with the engine.
Alan in Western Australia
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
I sure wouldn't do it if you had the 14mm plug hole option. I'd be somewhat less concerned with the pipe thread plug holes, but I still wouldn't lift it that way myself. My guess is, it would be okay, but why guess when it's so easy to choose another method. Cast iron heads, no problem. I've lifted many by the plug hole. Just keep the lift eye tight in the plug hole.
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Topic author - Posts: 167
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Re: Lifting with aluminum head
Thanks all for your response. I have a sling and also an engine leveler. I seem to find it easy to use #3 plug hole to tip the engine in.
With the aluminum head I will use another method.
Happy New Year
John
With the aluminum head I will use another method.
Happy New Year
John