Help needed: Replacing rear wood wheel hubs.

[Brian Cress]

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for removing the rear hub from a wood spoke wheel with out damaging the spokes? We have centered the wheel on a piece of 6 1/2" ID tubing in a hydraulic press and applied 10 tons of pressure to the hub with no success. It acts like the front plate is frozen to the hub.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Brian

[DanTreace]

Details in this post on removing the hub plate, has to come off to drive the hub out.


http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29 ... 1161444998

[Henry K. Lee]

Spray some water around the hub and in-between the spokes, let sit over night and try again. You did remove the outside pinch ring first? I not, hand sand the area first before attempting or it will only dig in more.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

[George House]

Good advice. Jack Daron’s techniques always the best. I would only advise that “blunt punch” be brass and not steel so as not to disfigure square carriage bolt holes.

[Brian Cress]

Wow, very helpful replys. Thanks so much. We will give her another try in the morning.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The hub plate can be a real bear! The method in the link above is the way to do it!

[Dan McEachern]

In addition, you can heat the plate with a torch and get it pretty warm without charring the wood spokes. The heat will cause the ring to expand slightly. Also, once you have the plate hot, run a crayon around the id of the plate and let the melted paraffin migrate into the interface between the flange and the hub.

[ivaldes1]

Build or borrow a Reagan spoke press. http://www.funprojects.com/techinfo and choose 'Wheel Assembly Press Plans' from the drop down. Also Steve Jelf's video is great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKZ7WrfHdf8 I've used it to assemble wheels but also to change a front hub to a rear and vise versa.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for removing the rear hub from a wood spoke wheel with out damaging the spokes? We have centered the wheel on a piece of 6 1/2" ID tubing in a hydraulic press and applied 10 tons of pressure to the hub with no success. It acts like the front plate is frozen to the hub.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Brian

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

What complicates the removal, even after the hub plate is removed, is the fact that you can only support the spokes outside of the 6-1/2" perimeter of the hub flange. When supported that way, you create a fulcrum point for the spokes. Pushing on the hub, causes the spokes to rock on that fulcrum and to therefore, pinch in on the hub, making things even tighter. I think that using a press makes it even worse, with it's constant pressure. I would try placing a hunk of hardwood over the hub nose and whacking it repeatedly with a big hammer. I think the shock of the hammer blows will do more than the constant pressure of a press.

[Brian Cress]

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! A huge thank you to all those that replied and the entire MTFCA family. The open sharing of information is what makes this hobby special.
Again, I thank you all.
Brian

[ewdysar]

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! A huge thank you to all those that replied and the entire MTFCA family. The open sharing of information is what makes this hobby special.
Again, I thank you all.
Brian

Congratulations! So with a couple of suggestions provided in this thread, what worked for you?

Eric

[Brian Cress]

Hi Eric. We used Jack Daron's process that Pete Ruzicka detailed in the 2006 link that Dan Treace provided at the top of this thread.
It was time consuming, but worked well when used with a little patience. The biggest thing we learned is that brut force does not work! Rotating the outter plate is the key. Once we got the plate broke loose, it took several lighter taps in all 6 bolt holes to rotate it around. The plate can bind up on the hub if you use too much force. Once rotated, we tapped the plate off from the back as described. Light taps in every other hole kept it from binding on the hub.
Brian

[Allan]

That outer plate lip acts like the little spring clips used to hold diecast badges on 50's cars. The more pressure you apply the more it digs in. It needs to be freed up first, and that part of the hub which shows out side the centre flange needs to be spotlessly clean too so it can be driven off without interference.

AllAn from down under.

[pruzicka]

I am very happy that I documented the technique from Jack D. The very reason I thought it was important to document this in place it on the form was to help someone in the future. I still have my 1917 Model T but due to health reasons I am now going to pass it on to my twin brother. He and I both loved Model T’s growing up. This was mostly do the stories that were told to me by my father and mother when I was young. My uncles used to use one on a trap line and when hunting. So that’s what inspired my love for Model T. The car is been used for pleasure and even was a feature car in a wedding. It also was a feature car in a local show in 2017 when my car had its birthday determined by the serial number which said it was dated in August. I currently suffer from ALS. So I was unable to do any work on my cars for about a year and a half now. I really enjoyed my Model T! I enjoyed working on it driving it and telling people the history over the Model T and answering questions about it. I sorely miss working on his car. This car was one of my most cherished what possessions. I’d like to think the forum for all the great people and advice!

[Brian Cress]

Hello Peter,
I am so glad that you found our post. I hope you are pleased to see your efforts being appretiated by others. Thank you for your contribution to our hobby and I hope you continue to enjoy it for many years to come.
Best wishes, Brian