MTFCA Forum

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Hello fellow large trailer pullers,

Yesterday I purchased a 1999 8'x20' Pace aluminum enclosed auto-hauler. My 2019 Chevrolet tow vehicle has the factory tow package with "tow mode" and a 7 prong plug. The trailer's plug matches the Chevy's, and its running lights, break lights, turn signals, and flashers all activate as they should. This is easy to see.

However, I cannot know "for sure" if when I step on the brake that the trailer breaks are activating. Would any of you know a technique to test them?

Note: My tow vehicle does not have an "aftermarket trailer break handle" installed at the driver. Just the factory tow mode option.

Thank you for any ideas you may have.

Steven

If your tow vehicle is not equipped with an electric brake controller - one has to be installed.


Find a “ meat & potato “ no frills trailer service and repair shop or a place that installs receiver hitches to buy one from and have it installed.

Avoid U Haul and Camping World

While you are there - have them inspect the trailer
and your tow vehicle:

On the trailer check the electric brakes - tongue
safety chains - wheel bearings & races - tires
breakaway switch & battery.

On a used trailer it is alway good to check the frame
for signs of stress - flex - fatigue.

On thetow vehicle check the frame around where
the receiver hitch mounts for signs of fatigue & stress.

Check the receiver hitch itself for signs of fatigue
and stress along with the fastening points .


FJ

One way to determine is IF your trailer has the breakaway switch...I can't tell in your picture if it has one..pull the pin on it, with
the trailer connected of course through the 7-way plug, and try to drive off with it. Trust me, IF it's working (the switch), you won't be able to budge. That in itself I would think would let you know your brakes are working. At least in emergency mode.

Otherwise, you could do like I did..jack up the trailer, with a helper, have him/her try to rotate a wheel off the ground while you
firmly push on the tow vehicle's brake pedal. That'll let ya know!!

You'll want to pull the wheels and visually inspect the components as well (the trailer shop will do this)... I've seen trailer brake systems with "ventillated" discs - worn through to the webbing between the 2 disc surfaces or pads worn so bad what's rubbing the disc is the puck, as the pads are gone.

I have one of those lights under my dash. It tells me what setting I have on the trailer brakes and also whether they are connected. There is a switch If I am driving slowly, and I move that switch without my foot on the brake, I can feel the trailer pulling trying to stop. If you don't have one, follow FreighTer Jim's advice and have one installed.
Norm

Steve- before you test the breakaway switch, there is a 12 volt lantern battery or gell cell that powers the breakaway circuit. When the switch activates, the battery supplies the full 12 volts to the brake magnets, setting the brakes on at 100%. The battery may be in a small box on the trailer tongue or inside the trailer. IF the battery is dead or low, things won't work as intended.

Susanne it's doubtful a 22 y.o. trailer has disc brakes. Heck, mine's only 4 y.o. and it still has the usual drum brakes.
Steve...good point, I failed to mention to check if there is a battery for a breakaway, to check to see if it's dead. But again,at 22 y.o., I don't know if they even had those back then. No expert here.

I have not jacked up a trailer in years! I carry 3 short pices of 2x6 and pull on one of the 2 axles. Saves time and trouble! Bud.

Check the owner's manual for the truck. It should have instructions on the brake controller operation. It has to have some kind of gain control to adjust for other trailers, plus a manual button to test or apply the trailer brakes to stop sway etc. It might be totally automated but I would doubt it.

I have a 2019 Chevy pickup with the towing package, the brake controller is built in and is in the center dash under the screen at the lower left side, you adjust the gain by pushing on the + or- on the switch or you can push in on the slide part of the switch and it will go to 100% and if the brakes are ok it wont move or it will stop the trailer wheels if you are moving, if none of the mentioned items don't work get to a trailer shop as soon as possible.

Rick

All great responses above.
If you simply want to know if they are engaging or not do an audio check.
Have someone listen close to the wheel to hear if the brake is coming on when the brake pedal is pressed down.
Different brakes make different sounds. On one of my trailers I can hear it from the truck cab. Makes a buzzing noise.
Others are almost silent but detectable.
Harry

Steve, Here's another way that should at least tell you if you have a brake connection that's operating.

Jack up or back the trailer up to a driveway so that the brake wheel is off the ground and rotates freely. Have someone press the brake pedal and the trailer brake should energize and you'll know at least they're working. It's unusual there isn't some method to adjust the balance of braking between the trailer and your vehicle of this year.

Nice Trailer.

Sir,

If you 2019 Chevy pickup does truly have the tow mode, then there is a control in your dash to dial in more or less gain as well as a slide lever
to actuate the trailer brakes without touching your brake pedal! If it has this , just slide the lever as you are going down the road to see if your brakes on the trailer are working.

You can have a truck that is set up to tow, but not have "tow mode", (it will still have a trailer plug, hitch & heavier suspension). in which case you will need to buy an aftermarket controller. GM makes this extremely easy to do. On the inside of the firewall just above where your left foot sits is a separate junction box, you take the cover off & you will find a spot to plug the controller harness into. Do NOT buy any controller except a Tekonsha Brand. Most of the others are way too hard on trailer brakes. The most common reason for broken magnets in the trailer brakes is cheap junk controllers, that & of course people not understanding how to use them!

With almost 4 million accident-free towing miles, I have pretty much seen it all

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... ed.614419/

From http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index. ... ic=96185.0
Electrical: Use a compass. Have an assistant apply the brakes via the brake controller. Move the compass near the brake drum. If the compass spins you're getting power to that brake, if not you have a problem.

Electric trailer brake magnets fall out because
the design of all manufacturers relies on a cheap
clip in the center of the magnet to hold the magnet
in place - this cheap clip has a tendency
to become dislodged - this causes the magnet to
fall into the drum and get eaten up.

The passenger or curb side magnet clips tend to come
loose first because the curb side wheels
take more shock and road abuse.

If you jack up a trailer wheel & turn it - if there
is a distinct sound of something loose
inside the drum - chances are it is your magnet.

All brake backing plates have this clip.

It is a shitty design that has never been - and probably
never will be - improved upon - because then you
wouldn’t need to buy replacement backing plates
prematurely


Regarding electric brake controllers - all brands
work the same by applying electric current to
the magnets in coordination with the tow vehicle’s
braking system.

All work satisfactory if they are set up correctly
and adjusted per the owner instruction manual
for your particular tow vehicle - trailer - load.

I currently have a Reese brake controller
in my truck



FJ

Yes the design is crappy, NO every controller is NOT the same! There are big differences, that is why High End Trailer Manufacturers (Featherlite, ATC, etc) recommend Tekonsha. When you use junk equipment, you have many more problems with your trailer.

I urge people wanting to have as little problems on the road as possible to do their own independent research, go by the saying "you get what you pay for" & not listen to people who are constantly laying on the side of the road broke down!

It has probably been 10 years since the last time I had a bearing issue on either of my trailers (somewhere between 1.2 & 1.5 million miles) I can count on one hand how many blowouts I have had in the last 20 years & only ONCE in those 20 years did I have a brake magnet cause an issue that caused me to have to do a repair on the road. My maintenance schedule is all conducted inside my shop & I am very anal about it!

I liked the tip about the compass, but unfortunately requires two people. I also carry the Non-contact laser thermometer in the door pouches of each of my trucks & while I don't use them every time I get out, I do use it once or twice a day. The Harbor Freight ones are under $20.00 & are a good investment!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... ed.614419/

If your Silverado does not have a switch on the dash like this you need to have an aftermarket brake controller installed, sounds like you do not. "Tow-Haul is a function of the Transmission & not Auxiliary Brakes on a trailer. https://images.carid.com/acdelco/items/84108377.jpg