MTFCA Forum

I have access to a bunch of these bars of Babbitt, wondering if it is any good. Opinions?
Thanks George,

I knew the manager at Non-Ferrous Metals in Seattle - I did a considerable amount of work on his father's Runabout.

How did you come across those ?

A friend has them they were used for ballast in a wood sailboat.

Perhaps you have seen this:
https://www.icollector.com/item.aspx?i=20352959

If it was not satisfactory for Automotive use (Model T or A Ford), I am sure it would be useful for a Stationary or Hit-n-Miss Engine.
George

Hopefully a couple of our "Babbitt pourers" will chime in but I believe Premium Nickel was acceptable for our engines.

It conforms to ASTM B-23, Grade 2 which is ok for Model Ts.

http://nfmetals.com/babbitt-metal/

Thanks for the replies. Looks like like it might be good stuff, I'm sure my friend will be surprised. I was thinking about trying some in a hitmiss engine don't think I would trust my Babbitting skills on a T block, maybe someday.

George:
i recommend N-F smelters ... the Nickle 2 babbitt is correct for our use and is designed for automotive high speed high pressure applications ...also N-F smelters will sell in small quantities that suit our small business or hobby situations ... good people to deal with ...always an optimist Gene French

Just because an old ingot says anything on it does not mean that is what the ingot is...

Here you have some ingots that were used as ballast in a sailboat. It is quite possible that someone decades ago found an old mould that was the right size for what they wanted to do and then cast a bunch of ingots of whatever they could melt to use for ballast weight in a sailboat. Maybe not in just that one boat, but maybe in dozens or even hundreds of boats. Or, It could be bearing metal that could make satisfactory bearings. I wouldn’t ever take the chance of using any bearing metal I wasn’t 100% sure of.

Some bearing metal suppliers can assay a sample for you and tell you exactly what it is. That was a $100 service when I inquired with my supplier several years ago.

The scrapyard that takes all my unusable T stuff would pay $3/pound for babbitt a couple years ago. If you go to a major scrap buyer, they have a device that will tell them enough about those ingots that they can make an offer on them.

George- if there is any concern regarding the authenticity of your bars, take one to a scrap metal dealer and ask them to shoot it with their XRF gun.
Most scrap yards have them and should be willing to check a bar as a favor or for a small gratuity. I would imagine that most metal suppliers guard their ingot molds pretty well but. . . . . Any way nice find. Dan

Not a bad idea, I know the manager of our local scrap yard pretty well might take a bar there and see what they say. Thanks again for the input. George

The Babbitt formula had several options and included lead, but now new Babbitt is being advertised as lead free.

Henry Ford's official Babbitt was mostly tin and only 15 % lead.

This is a change from the earlier 15 %.

MARCH 2, 1927 Letter GL1600 from the Fargo branch
(Found id Bruce McCalley's book)

For your information, the following is a comparative analysis of the babbitt in a connecting rod re-babbitted by an outside concern, and standard Ford babbitt:
Outside Standard Ford
Tin 82.96 % 85-86 %
Lead 5.00 % .10(max.) %
Copper 5.15 % 7.00-7.5 %
Antimony 6.89 % 7.00-7.50 %

The letter continues, stating that the increased copper in the Ford Babbitt gives greater wear, and stresses that the dealers should use the Ford Babbitt instead of any outside material.

True Nickel Babbitt has never had any lead in it. Most knowledgeable shops only use Nickel Babbitt in engine bearings. Its not lead free because its politically correct. Just FYI

Are these useable for engine Babbitt ?

The two bottom ones- the XXXX Nickel ones are for sure- purchased my babbitt from them for years before they closed their plant in San Francisco.

Here is link to company that makes Ford Babbitt. Dan
https://stores.acrosales.com/fordbabbitt/