Help Please - Switch Assembly Assistance - Clum (?) type

[A Whiteman]

I have what I think is the Clum? switch. It is proving to be a bit faulty and I am not 100% sure how it should be assembled internally or what component may be missing/ broken.

I found this picture on the old forum:

Can anyone provide more details (including pictures of the other side of the components. Any advice in assembly/ testing or back ground info is much appreciated to build up a picture before we launch into the repair.

Thanks,

Adrian

[VowellArt]

Seems pretty simple whatever it is, that one piece on the far right with the broken nub on it is the switch handle. It looks to screw onto the back of that large plate with the 2 prongs and 3 springs on it.

That small disk is fits onto the the cylinder (barrel) with the 2 prongs on it, that's the key holder that fits into the switch handle like other switches do. Anyhoo, that small disk goes into the center of the large ring with the 3 contact points on it and works just like other Ford switches, the spring plate turns the large 3 contact ring turning on the lights and switching them from dim to bright, those springs fit onto the back of that ring (probably over those tube rivets) and keep the contact ring against the contact backing much like the Ford switches do with their leaf springs. The key barrel that turns the small middle disk, makes contact between the battery and magneto by (you probably guessed) turning the key.

The one thing I don't see is the contact plate that everything is wired to and makes the connection with these parts. It is probably the back like on Ford switches too...do you have that back?

At least that what it looks like to me...would be nice to see all the parts though...would make for an interesting assembly drawing.

[Rich Eagle]

Here are some more pictures. The first one is the inside of my Clum switch #66

The next three are of parts from a similar switch. The keyway is not for a straight key but a zig-zag one. As far as I can tell they are the same model.

I hope this helps. I can take more pictures if not.
I do not have a back plate.

[Rich Eagle]

This patent drawing may help. I'm not sure it is the same model but many parts look similar.

This is the front of my Clum switch.

[A Whiteman]

Hi Martynn and Rich
Many thanks, these are just what I was looking for.
This is great,
Kind regards
Adrian

(ps - maybe I should send assembly sequence pictures and dimensions Martynn )

[Mark Gregush]

Looks a lot like the Clum in my 1920 Dodge, but the backing plate where the wires mount is missing in all the above photos.

[A Whiteman]

Hi Mark, could you take a picture of that?
Thanks
Adrian

[Rich Eagle]

If it is any help, here are some pics I saved while looking.

Lots of variations.

[Mark Gregush]

This is all I have right now. The car is under wraps and switch installed.

[Original Smith]

Check with Ben Martin.

[Mark Gregush]

To add; in the photos I posted the part where the key goes is missing the little tumbler plates. Wondered why the key fell out and got lost and correct replacement numbered key would do the same thing (stopped using that key till I replace the tumbler plates).

[DickC]

I have the same problem. I can't find a posting in answer to this question. How do you replace the key tumbler? I may be making more of this than I should as it may be easy. HELP!!

[Mark Gregush]

Ford switch or the type shown here? For the Ford type, you have to remove the two rivets one ether side, the type shown here, more or less just comes apart when you take the screws out.

[Dropacent]

I did a pile of these a couple of winters ago for relaxation, and was really surprised with the vast number of differences in the manufacture of them. There is no such thing as an easily interchangeable part unless you are just lucky. Even the ammeters and the way they mount differ substantially. Good on Martynn for trying to document, but on this part it’s a huge ask.
My further comment is the new tumblers I bought were REALLY crappy ( a technical term) and required a huge amount of work in order to make them usable. Another downside is they take the same number key and came with a funky looking repro key. It’s a rare number to find, and even if you do, the original # keys don’t fit.
I put a couple of complete units on eBay and they sold for about nothing, so it was a labor of love and a reminder to “ not do that again! “