MTFCA Forum

My list of RHD Parts with pictures was very useful, but I have lost it!

Would anyone have one to share or tell me where I found that information.

Throttle lever on carb
Steering column
Hogs head
Shafts and pedals for hogs head
Steering column to frame mount
Rods for both spark and throttle
Until the change in the steering setup after 1920ish, would have used the generator mounted on left side.
Tie rod

There’s a list of RHD parts in the Australian catalog https://www.cool386.com/catalog/AussieFordT.zip

Complete Hand brake + the chassis ratchet
Depending on year, the fire wall, 3 steel ones listed. cut and weld etc.
The 26/7 fire wall would take some mods, fuel tank is also reversed like pedal clearance and the tap.
3 steering brackets are listed
Engine pans if still using them.
Floor boards
battery cables need to be longer.
Depending on body style, Door.
Tail light.

Add battery cable support, tie rod and adjustable yoke.

Allan from down under.

Additional notes.
Actually the steering column is the same, just the spark and throttle rods and bottom frame bracket are different.
Levers on the spark and throttle rods to the timer and carburetor are different as are the linkage rods.
Timer is "upside down" the lever goes to the bottom and oiler is still at the top.
Drag link is twisted the other way from the LHD (a regular one can be twisted to work).
Tie rod is opposite, mainly for those with the pinned ball and for the later one with the tapered ball. However for a "cheat" use the mid teens version with the straight bolt in ball. That version flip the tie rod around, and reverse the ball stud. Easy, peasy compared to finding the right parts.
Emergency brake lever, pawl, quadrant etc. as already mentioned. Difficult to modify the LHD ones.
Tail light and tail light mounting bracket from '15 onward. The tail light mounts on the same side as the steering wheel and the license plate support is on the opposite side on the bracket.

Drive Safe
Jeff
Nova Scotia

I had not seen the Australian Parts Catalog before and I looked for something specific, the rear view mirror. In the American catalogs it is part 18259X and in the Australian it is listed as 18523X. I had a friend that had a RHD Model T more than 50 years ago and for some reason, the one thing that I remember was that the mirror was different. Of all the things that I remembered or noticed or just stuck with me all those years, the rear view mirror. The "slide" for adjusting the view was on the opposite side as the LHD (as it should be or the mirror would be pretty useless):

September, 1924 Service Bulletin
I have had more than one person tell me that I was wrong and there were never 2 different mirrors, they were the same for both RHD and LHD. I have always respectfully disagreed with that. Would anyone have any photos of 18259X vs. 18523X for comparison?

Joseph, you friend may be right, or wrong! The slotted piece, which allows adjustment sideways, is part of the clamp on the mirror glass. It is possible to remove the long centre bolt and rotate the glass/clamping piece assembly through 180 degrees and refit the long bolt. The only difference is instead of two claws on the bottom and one on the top, there will now be one on the bottom and two on the top. I bought a nickel plated brass mirror of that type at Chickasha, and that is what I did to make it RHD suitable.

Allan from down under.

Another RHD part I forgot to list before.

The exhaust pipe for RHD is different as it needs a sharper bend down from the exhaust manifold. The brake pedal wants to hit the pipe. And I have found a few of RHD brake pedals twisted from hard pushing making them hit the pipe even easier. The RHD brake pedal is an awkward shape and angle and easy to distort.

Drive Safe
Jeff
Nova Scotia

Jeff, not only is the mounting bracket for the tail light different, the light itself is different, in both oil lights and electric lights. The clear side window to illuminate the number plate is on the opposite side to a LHD lamp.

You are correct about the exhaust pipe being different, but it is more complicated than you indicate. The pedals do present major problem. There is a bend very close to the packnut to kick the pipe outwards and another to start it downwards. Then there is a correction after the pedals are cleared and another bend downwards to get the pipe to go under the foot starter switch with clearance. Finally, another correction heads the pipe to the muffler. On original pipes all these bends are incorporated in a continuous, smooth, drawn pipe.

It used to be that the pipes available here were a hit- and- mis fit. One in ten may fit without quite extensive adjustment. Our club now has them made in small batches, which we provide to anyone as a service and a small fundraiser for the club. I provided a custom exhaust workshop with a driveable chassis, and they computer plotted the required pipes. Now one in ten may need slight adjustment, and that is usually to get the flange to mate to the manifold. When we need new stocks, we just phone in the order and the computer controlled bender does the rest.

Allan from down under.

Parts book, pipe 4037-B for LHD and 4037-C for both L & RHD.

Wow and Boy oh Boy the list grows by the minute!!
Does anybody actually do conversions from LHD to Right?? Why?
I adapted driving my 1966 Mustang LHD with no worries and want to keep the car exactly as it came out of the San Jose
Factory. The conversion on a Model T would be a neater job but why? We very seldom overtake other cars and if necessary
my passenger gives me the nod to do so. Much easier just to cruise in the far left lane!
We have several LHD T’s in Western Australia and they have all retained the LHD set up.
Cheers Alan in Western Australia

I started on one for a customer here in Oregon that got it from someone else that had stated it. Had to make the shafts for the transmission pedals, my first project on a lathe, learn on the go. I only got so far as the car was too far away and I had no place to work on it here, so I walked away. Never did hear it run. He was moving the steering column back so all the RHD linkage would need to have been fab'ed along with a lot of other things. He was a wood worker not mechanic so no tools to work with at his location. I suggested a Bosch self advancing distributor to at least get the car running but that was a no go. I did talk him out of the Warford and Ruckstell combination, he had never even driven a T before, let alone a RHD.

Hi Allan

Yes you are right about the tailights too. It took me a couple years to find the correct RHD, back and brass marked Classco tailight for my roadster. They are hard to find as the early back and brass CDN oil lights appear to have used blank brass tops for a while before they started to make the ones marked Classco on the top. And then only for a few months before changing to the all black ones.

I got lucky a couple years ago at the flea market and found a RHD '13/14 oil taillight for my '13 project.

So if you are getting even more picky, since most of the RHD cars are Canadian built in most of the commonwealth other than the UK, getting the correct RHD Canadian parts can be a challenge. SInce I am in one the provinces where they were sold I pick up almost any RHD bits that I can for future projects. But since Nova Scotia switched to driving on the right in '23, all the RHD parts are mainly for pre-starter cars. Haven't seen a RHD starter hogshead of any style here yet.

And for the RHD exhaust pipe. I didn't have a good pattern so I took chassis with the muffler mounted to the muffler shop and had a custom pipe bent. Its not entirely correct, but in this case getting clearance around the pedals was more important that getting it exactly factory.

Drive Safe
Jeff
Nova Scotia

Found this chart in Ford Owner Dealer, from UK dealer on parts needed to convert left hand starter cars after 1923, to right hand drive.

I read it two times and the thing that stands out is the crankcase support block? There is no left or right on that one that I have seen. Other wise I think we got it all. Thanks for that list.

Maybe the fuel line needs a little tweaking at the wood block to clear the exhaust pipe taking a new route.