MTFCA Forum

Ok... so I have a 26 that sat for about 40 years, transmission is tight. If I put the parking break on it is almost impossible to crank though I can turn it .I can start it by jacking up the rear wheels and then after it warms up a bit hit the brakes..seems high gear is tight / stuck.. I drive it around town a few miles then park it, next morning tight again. It's been cold here in pa, will this free up when it warms up ? I took the cover off the transmission and watched the disengage and engage action.. those little fingers barely get touched because that barely move at all. Is this how that works ? Or should there be more movement there? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated..

What kind of oil are you using. Not to start a fight here, but if you are using a straight weight 30 it could cause that in real cold temps.

Jason

does your 1/2 page ad make you much money?

Scott_conger wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 05, 2019 9:23 am

Jason
does your 1/2 page ad make you much money?

Scott
Doesn't make me anything other than helpful.

Does your half page ad for float valves make you much money?

That’s funny, I had never noticed the tiny print in Scott’s signature section until Jason mentioned it. However, the full color photos in various members’ sig section, including Jason’s, I find distracting from most conversations because I try to figure out what they have to do with the topic at hand. By what appears to be sheer coincidence, Jason’s advert directly supports his opinion in this thread.

That said, I’ve never had much of a problem with the stock steel clutch disks. It never gets too cold here, and I park my ‘14 with chocks and handbrake forward during the winter. When I forget and leave the handbrake on, the car can be a little hard to crank by hand until she runs long enough to open the choke all the way. The handbrake seems to have no issues preventing “car creep” when starting cold. And in my experience, with an electric start, there have been no issues with cold start drag at all.

Keep crankin’
Eric

ewdysar wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 05, 2019 10:48 am

That’s funny, I had never noticed the tiny print in Scott’s signature section until Jason mentioned it.

Scott's signature is an advertisement of his product for financial gain. Mine is not.

ewdysar wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 05, 2019 10:48 am

the full color photos in various members’ sig section, including Jason’s, I find distracting

Then just scroll right past them. easily done.

Just like yours, my signature line contains an opinion...just a lot smaller and with no pictures to distract

You say the car has sat for some 40 years? If so the discs are likely coated with a varnish. Two suggestions might help. First is to drain the oil and add a gallon of kerosene - this is what the old timers did. Then with at least one rear wheel securely blocked up start the car and work the high low pedal in and out multiple times. Just fine to run for a couple minutes. The kero will clean a lot of the old crud. Then drain and put in fresh oil.
I have seen many an old engine come back to life doing this.

Scott_conger wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 05, 2019 11:56 am

Just like yours, my signature line contains an opinion.

Have you stopped modifying and selling float valves?

Do as Joss says and if things still don’t seem right place the car on a flat surface. Place the hand brake in neutral position (straight up).
Try to turn the crank and if the car moves the clutch linkage or or the clutch itself might need adjustment.
If the adjustment is correct the car won’t move when the handbrake is placed in the straight up position. That’s neutral.

Ok thanks.. I did get some good advice and suggestions, I appreciate it. I think I might hang on till spring and see what happens..if I'm not satisfied with the way it works I might try the kerosene as a cleaner.