MTFCA Forum

Anyone building cranks? If so what are you using for the sleeve? The only thing I’ve come up with cutting down some non-galvanized tubing, any ideas? The crank is 3/4 cold roll. Bob at 9othree 824 194nine.

I used a piece of electrical conduit. I'd post a picture if I could find it. I'd take a new picture if I could find the crank.

My Crank was severely worn. I cut off the section of shaft that holds the ratchet and welded on a new section of 3/4" rod. I didn't have to mess with the handle sleeve.

Steve's electrical conduit sounds about right. Regular steel tubing will be too heavy in wall thickness. Our old metal conduit however has an open seam which would need attention to make it work. Once the sleeve is freed on an original, I too have cut and welded a new piece of 3/4" cold rolled rod onto the est of the handle. You just need to make sure the ratchet pin hole is drilled at the original angle or the engagement position is upset.

Allan from down under.

The hand grip/sleeve on my ‘26 crank was frozen in place due to rust inside the sleeve. I thought it was made that way and did not know it was supposed to turn until I read somewhere on the forum many years ago that the handle is really a hand grip/sleeve that is supposed to turn on the crank, so I removed the crank and submerged the handle portion in “Blaster” for a month, then worked it free until it spun easily. I then repainted it and put it back on. I’m not really sure how the revolving sleeve is secured to the crank. It appears that there is a groove machined into the crank about 4” from the end and the close fitting sleeve is crimped into the groove. The sleeve seems to be made out of rather thin steel, somewhat like the tubing used in making metal broom handles or hollow metal flag staffs. Jim Patrick

. The sleeve crimps over a notch in the crank. And it’s not hard to split the tube, close it and tig it back. I’m was just hoping to find a tube stock the proper size. If you have a frozen sleeve on an otherwise good crank you can use a small hammer and tap the sleeve all around until it frees.

Bob's hammer trick works well. The blows break up the rust underneath the sleeve. Try not to hammer too hard or the sleeve will be expanded somewhat and may come off. Heat and penetrant also help. Once you can feel the slightest of movement, you are on the way. Penetrant and oil should do the rest.

Allan from down under.

Heat the sleeve, it will expand and while it is hot, turn it, then oil it when it cools some.