MTFCA Forum

Thinking I might try these when putting the hogshead back together with the new Kevlar band linings, any input would be great.

Perhaps users of this modern repro of an original accessory can comment on successful use.

To me, adjustment of brake and reverse is more satisfying by removing the inspection cover, viewing lining or drum wear, most times revolve with starter slowly a few 'bumps' to also look for drum issues. The ratchet wrench tools are easy to use too. Plus inspecting travel as you tighten the nuts helps correct setting.

A lot of changes as the pedals must loose their shafts, and then the sleeves installed with tiny set screws to hold them. The welded tabs on the nut seem as a mechanical compromise. But again, have no experience. The standard Ford design in good condition serves for me

I’d never use them. They are potential troublemakers. The tab that’s welded to the nut breaks off. Seen it twice in person and heard about it from others as well. If you are using Kevlar bands, there is no reason to add anything that makes adjustment more convenient. Unless you are a lousy T driver, the Kevlar bands will rarely ever require adjustment after their initial break in.

Yeh, to me it's better to "force" yourself to open the inspection cover once in a while, even if it's just for something to do.
It needs removed every oil change anyway, that way you can inspect (hence the name "inspection cover"), make any adjustments
that may or most likely will not be needed with those new bands once you get them where you want them, and of course to put in new oil. With the "new fangled" thingies, there goes the need to open the cover, and take a good look at what's going on inside. Just my stupid opinion.

i actually was first making this type of adjustable pedal shaft kits & selling to venders. improved design from a period accessory.
one of them texas part suppliers ripped off the design & makes a poor quality version as shown. just like those lousey, thin oil slingers that come apart. chaffins still sells my version. the tabs are heavier & welded better. also bent down, almost touching bolt. (thats necessary to not over run band ears). set screws are longer, use taper tap. very solid lock. i have had no negative feed back from MY product.
i built these for my own use initially. run them in all my t's & a few customer motors.

all good points being expressed.

the thing is, with kevlar, it makes adjusting fool proof. adjust reverse & low with motor running. when you hear the tripple gears start to change sounds. (slight engagement) back off 1/2 turn. perfect adjustment. more = drag. less= lost pedal motion. no way to brake a drum!! if you cant get an adjustment - band may be out of round, etc. i never install kevlar thru the inspection cover. bands must be perfectly shaped or there will be drag. then broken drum. adjust brake band the same way, but in gear with one wheel up.

cotton type bands are forgiving. you burn a band. kevlar are not. you lose a drum. for this reason i rarely install kevlar for a customer any more. when i was, i had a guy break a low drum , then a second one, despite my warnings. anyone experienced enough to change his own bands can probably handle kevlar.
dont get me wrong. i love kevlar. i run kevlar in all my t's. but, they are extremely UNFORGIVING. unless you install & adjust them PERFECTLY.

yes, once kevlar takes a set, no more regular adjustments. cant remember when i last adjusted my bands. 1 t went to above frisco & back for a national tour. so is been at least 3000 miles since adjusting.

and yes, one should periodically clean out the transmission screen. i, myself have been lax since i dont have to readjust the bands.
since i am not wearing out bands, i dont need to inspect them.
if i was frequently adjusting band i would feel the need to inspect. i think i will put this on my t to do list though.

As Adam said the tabs break off and you have to open the inspection cover any ways, just hope the tab does not drop down in and then you go fishing!

Its unfortunate that shoddy knockoff parts infiltrate the hobby. my ORIGINAL PEDAL SHAFT KITS were designed for my personal use. they sold in a low volume & there was not very little profit to be had. i still sell em @ the 2 swap meets i do every year. the last sets i sold went to chaffins 6 years ago. chaffin shows my units in his big catalog. pix dont show the tabs well, but i can tell they are bent down and the mounting hdw is different. if one wanted a quality set ask dave about em.

shoddy incorrect parts have always plaged us. soft tripple gear bushings, sintered bronze spindle & drive shaft bushings, solid hyatt bearing replacements, viaton needle & seats that dont flow original volume & have a burr that damages the needle, argentina exh manifolds & nh carbs, etc.

Most recently-starter ring gears with the wrong threads. so you have to also buy bastard screws to match. correctly threaded ring gears are not available, & probably wont be untill this huge batch is gone. ( somebody doesnt understand the difference between 14-24 threads & 1/4-24 threads). glad i have a supply of good ones to get me through.

BUYER BEWARE. this forum should help by calling out the GOOD & BAD parts.

On the bright side, there are hobby assets like Larry Smith who have identified a need & produce a quality, correct replacement part always at the risk of being counterfitted with shoddy, cheaper parts

What parts does Larry Smith produce?

I'm running a Ford Faithful oil cover, so I have to remove the cover every so often to clean and flush it anyway, and it gives me a chance to look at my drums along with my bands... if I had something that made me more lazy, I'd be in trouble!!!

larry prouduces a correct windshield seal, electric termimal block, an original nh needle & seat. & other bits. all i recall. ill have to ask him. point being, larry recognizes a need for correct, restoration quality part, researches, & has it made. thats a service to the hobby.
fun projects is another example of a guy recognizing a need & producing a quality product.