23 T New Crank Seal

[tommyleea]

Tried twice now, and second verse, same as the first. How do you keep the seal from going egg shape? I am using the new seal as a secondary seal, not in the timing cover. Thanks..Tommy

[Scott_Conger]

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1483211387

[tommyleea]

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1483211387

Oh..Thanks Scott..My seal must be deeper. The pulley will hit if it isn't flat..I will have to investigate a different part number.

[Stephen_heatherly]

Is your crankshaft seal leaking? If it's not I wouldn't even bother with the extra seal. I've been using both felt and rope seals and have never had any issues with leaks

Stephen

[tommyleea]

Is your crankshaft seal leaking? If it's not I wouldn't even bother with the extra seal. I've been using both felt and rope seals and have never had any issues with leaks

Stephen

Thanks..I am getting ready to install the motor. New felt seal installed already. I am now having second thoughts of experimenting with the new type seal in this way. I have visions of disaster for some reason. Tommy

[Allan]

The white rope seal, which is actually for the a models, makes the best seal. The original felt may have worked well, but the modern stuff supplied is too soft. Felt comes in different densities. For an effective seal it needs to be way harder than the grey stuff in the gasket sets.
When fitting the longer rope seals, I oil them first and pound them into the grooves, using an appropriate sized socket to form them. Then I trim them off leaving approx. 1/16" protruding above the surface, on both sides and on both halves of the seal. I cut a U in the pan rail gaskets to go around the pan seals. When the bolts are tightened, the proud ends of the seals are further compressed to make the seal firmer.
It works for me.
Allan from down under.

[SurfCityGene]

Tommy, Glad your are installing the outside seal. You'll appreciate it later.. If you looked at the link that Scot posted you'll see some solutions to your technique. A thinner seal will most likely clear between most pulleys. I always like to "Daisy" the flange but in your picture if you did it like Toon showed in his pictures it would not deform the seal. With the one you have you actually can salvage it by cutting narrower "petals" and reshape your seal. It really doesn't take much to have a drip free crankshaft. Lots of guys use the seal inside when putting their engine together but I find it a bit hard to then remove the cover. Good luck and make sure your using Ultra Black or the Right Stuff!

[speedytinc]

the seal you want is 30x50x5mm. thats .200" tall. this typically fits. ocassionaly you might need it shorter. if so a small disk grinder works/ had to do this once. seal area must be polished smooth.

[Norman Kling]

I use the rope type Model A seals and have not had a leak in that location on any of my cars.
Norm

[Les Schubert]

I always CAREFULLY inspect the area on the crank where the seal runs. IF I see any roughness, pitting or grooves I install a SPEEDI SLEEVE!!
Not really cheap but the hard ground stainless surface will allow a quality seal packing material to do the job it was designed to accomplish.
I like to minimize the oil drips!!

[tommyleea]

Thanks for all the inputs. I have decided to go old school, wipe the oil up direction.

[SurfCityGene]

Tommy, Sorry to hear about your decision. It's so simple, easy and works so well to prevent an oil leak from the T.

I have found that little oil drip up front around the crankshaft isn't like most of the other places some of us like to prevent.

The problem up front is that oil dripping or running down then gets splashed all the way to the back undersides of the car after you've driven for awhile. You sooner or later end with oil dripping from all over the place. We many times place a piece of cardboard under our cars to catch that one or two spots. A drip around the front of the car will make it darn near impossible to prevent oil staining. Sometimes this has the result of our cars being not welcome...

Please reconsider that seal. If you need a new one please let me know and I'll send you one!

[tommyleea]

Tommy, Sorry to hear about your decision. It's so simple, easy and works so well to prevent an oil leak from the T.

I have found that little oil drip up front around the crankshaft isn't like most of the other places some of us like to prevent.

The problem up front is that oil dripping or running down then gets splashed all the way to the back undersides of the car after you've driven for awhile. You sooner or later end with oil dripping from all over the place. We many times place a piece of cardboard under our cars to catch that one or two spots. A drip around the front of the car will make it darn near impossible to prevent oil staining. Sometimes this has the result of our cars being not welcome...

Please reconsider that seal. If you need a new one please let me know and I'll send you one!

Thanks Gene..If you send it already modified, I will take you up on your offer. I can't seem to modify it without deforming it. Tommy

[John kuehn]

Going back to the pic at the beginning of this post, he is asking how to keep the seal from getting egg shaped. I used a seal and cut the flanges all around the seal narrower and not as wide as the pic shows. The wider you cut them you lose the roundness. Cut them narrower and it will work. You can use the pictured seal if you go around the seal and cut each flange half again. It will cause the seal rubber to round out.

When overhauling a T engine it’s always a good idea to use some crocus cloth and then some fine sandpaper to get the front crankshaft surface really smooth. If it’s not the front seal will eventually leak.

[SurfCityGene]

Tommy, Please try what John is suggesting. In most of your "Petals" you can cut into two or a couple of them into three. That will as John says allow the seal to be formed into a more perfect circle.

Don't know if you looked at the links that were shown. There are some examples there as well.

If this fails, Send me your address and I'll see if I have one in my drawer.

Thanks John for some good suggestions...

[tommyleea]

Tommy, Please try what John is suggesting. In most of your "Petals" you can cut into two or a couple of them into three. That will as John says allow the seal to be formed into a more perfect circle.

Don't know if you looked at the links that were shown. There are some examples there as well.

If this fails, Send me your address and I'll see if I have one in my drawer.

Thanks John for some good suggestions...

Thanks for all the help..I have looked at all the links, that is why I tried it. It looked simple...I will try again with my seal and see what happens. Wish me luck..Tommy

[speedytinc]

maybe you missed this. rarely does this seal need modification.

the seal you want is 30x50x5mm. thats .200" tall. this typically fits. ocassionaly you might need it shorter. if so a small disk grinder works/ had to do this once out of 8 motors.

[SurfCityGene]

Tommy, Speedy John is right also but it's hard to find a 5mm thick seal.

Check how much clearance you have between your pulley and the front plate? Each engine has some variation but most all have plenty. Since you've already cut your seal, make some more cuts about 1/8 or better wide and you'll be able to form it back round again I bet? If it ends up mangled, like I said shoot me an email.