I have started to install my claastique top on my 21 touring. I have wrapped the bows installed them and am confused on what to install first. The instalation video shows installing the windshield flap first and the instructions after the straps and pads. In reviewing both I am totally confused as neither is very clear. Can anyone help me on the windshield flap or have photos of the instalation?
Another question I have is the centerline on the rear. When I wrapped the bows I put a center mark on the bows. After I had the bows I dropped a plumbob the the center on the bow to the center on the body and it is off about 2 inches. Can this be corrected or is it ok?
Will appreciate any help.
Need help with touring top
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- Posts: 2385
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:17 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Strange
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Cut Off Touring (now a pickup)
- Location: Hillsboro, MO
- MTFCA Number: 30944
- MTFCI Number: 23667
- Board Member Since: 2013
Re: Need help with touring top
Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
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- Posts: 408
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Art
- Last Name: Ebeling
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
- Location: Hillsboro IL
- MTFCA Number: 50718
Re: Need help with touring top
The windshield flap is confusing but I have some pictures of it and the rest of my top installation. The flap goes on after the bows are wrapped, then the straps and then the padding. I can email some pictures tomorrow. Art
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- Posts: 1930
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:39 am
- First Name: Tim
- Last Name: Juhl
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Touring
- Location: Thumb of Michigan
- MTFCA Number: 50297
- MTFCI Number: 24810
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Need help with touring top
Before you attempt to fit the top you need to have the frame and bows securely braced in their proper positions. You then need to run the webbing from front to back, followed by the two pads. Note the wire cross bracing and the wood pieces holding the vertical bows straight and supporting the bow over the windshield. Next is the rear piece then the top. The material needs to be warm and it may take a couple of days to get the top stretched into shape before you finally tack it down. Me, I chickened out and hired a guy who's done a bunch of tops to do mine. I believe it was money well spent. Tops are expensive, especially if you screw up the installation.
I have not found a good installation video and the directions from Classtique aren't too helpful. At the very least try to find someone who has done one before to advise or help you.
I have not found a good installation video and the directions from Classtique aren't too helpful. At the very least try to find someone who has done one before to advise or help you.
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
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- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Need help with touring top
On that year of touring, you have two leather straps running from the top bow to the top support (that is the rod which holds the saddle) You can adjust those straps to pull the bow in one direction or the other. Same holds true for the straps on the windshield support to the front bow. You can also get some pull to straighten things out as you install the straps inside the pads and those other two straps between the front and back bows. The main thing you need to do is get the proper distance from the top of the body to the rear bow and also the proper distance of the front bow in front of the windshield. You might not be able to get it exact, but when you install the top, the distance from the back bow should be the same on both sides. Some people measure the distance from the ground to the rear bow, but if the car leans, and you measure from the ground instead of the back of the body, it will always look crooked. After you get the front and back bows, you need to get both center bows straight up and down and then tack them to the straps.
Norm
Norm
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- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Need help with touring top
The bows are the foundation of the top. They need to be right. I use thin laths of timber to set them. Two hold the back bow in place. Tack them to the inside at the top and to the back of the seat at the bottom. They set the bow at the correct angle to the rear body panel and to the same height each side. Two long laths go front to back. With the back end already fixed, they should be the same length to the front. With the ends held, then adjust the second and third bows to the same positions on each lath and tack them in position. Now you are ready to fix the webbing and pads. With these installed, the laths can be removed and all should stay in the right place.
The wind breaker and back panel are fitted before the top. That way the top overlaps both, and any water is shed away from the bows and down the outside of the the two panels.
Some have difficulty fitting the wind breaker. It goes under the front bow. Draw it tight on the under side, pull the end up on the outside of the bow and tack/staple it each end. Then draw the front up the outside of the bow and staple it. That will leave the corners to be gathered as you staple them to the outside of the bow. The result is a windbreaker which lays flat along the underside of the bow. When you put the top up, the windscreen pushes against the flap and holds it down over the screen.
This much I do myself. Because our colonial tops are custom made to fit, I have the rest done by the trimmer who sews the panels. His expertise results in a beautiful, crease free fit.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
The wind breaker and back panel are fitted before the top. That way the top overlaps both, and any water is shed away from the bows and down the outside of the the two panels.
Some have difficulty fitting the wind breaker. It goes under the front bow. Draw it tight on the under side, pull the end up on the outside of the bow and tack/staple it each end. Then draw the front up the outside of the bow and staple it. That will leave the corners to be gathered as you staple them to the outside of the bow. The result is a windbreaker which lays flat along the underside of the bow. When you put the top up, the windscreen pushes against the flap and holds it down over the screen.
This much I do myself. Because our colonial tops are custom made to fit, I have the rest done by the trimmer who sews the panels. His expertise results in a beautiful, crease free fit.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.