MTFCA Forum

-
Hello fellow Model T-ers.
Although installed by Romero last year, my Classtique top seems loose. Can I simply punch new (tighter) holes in the front and back straps to make it tighter? Or, will this common sense approach have unintended consequences?
Thank you in advance for any help with this.
-

The rear strap looks very good. If you tighten it, the rear curtain will sag. The front strap determines the distance from the windshield. If you change it, you will pull the second bow forward. Best way to tighten it would be to wait for a very hot day, and park the car out in the sun. Then Go to the rear bow and remove some tacks and pull the material back as far as you can. Might need two people so one can pull back while the other tacks. Be careful to hit the right nail. This will help. You can also install a snap at the bottom end of the top material at each of the center bows which will help hold the top down in the center of the top. However, you will notice most 2 man tops do appear a bit wrinkled, even in the old pictures when the cars were new.
Norm

To me, it looks like your top is missing the pads.

That would cause the sag between the bows as well as the telegraphing of the bow through the top material like a rib on a starving greyhound, most noticeably the third bow in your photo.

I reviewed your picture again and it looks like I can see the outline of the 3rd bow through the top. Do you have the pads installed" With the pads properly installed, you should not see the shape of the bows through the top. Inside the pads should be 3 straps tacked to each bow, and then a layer of cotton which pads everything which are used to keep the entire top aligned. Then over all the top material should be pulled tight on a hot day and tacked to the back and front bows. Lastly the trim strip over the tacks in the front and back bows.
Norm

I'm also curious about whether pads are installed (photo 1). My top is not a perfect fit although it looks almost identical to a photo of my grandfather's 1917 Touring (taken in 1918). I also added snaps on the sides to the middle two bows - it doesn't help much with the shape but does keep the edges from flapping in the wind (photo 2). My 1917 uses web straps and I have had to adjust them after having the top up for awhile. Leather straps would be a little more difficult to make "fine" adjustments as you have to use the available holes or add some.

Steve- if that is a new top, I would go back to your top guy and have him fix it. A new top should not look like that.

Besides thirding the question about the bows being padded, I wonder if the installer did not pull the material tight enough. Top material can act like tires and relax a bit on a hot day. What seems "too tight" at installation often stretches to fit just right.

It might not be the worlds best top, but it might not be nearly as bad as you think either. A lot of what I see looks to me like wrinkles from being down a long time. The best way to have a fantastic looking top is to never put it down. Wrinkles, etc from being down for a long time may take quite a while to go away on their own. A ‘13 touring I bought several years ago had the same sort of wrinkles when I brought it home and put the top up. It probably took a year for the wrinkles to go away on their own. The ‘24 touring we drive all the time always has the top up. If we put the top down for the day, it goes back up at the end of the day. It’s a nearly 20 year old top that was very properly installed and has a nice, tight appearance.

Simple! Find an upholstery guy, or someone else that knows how to install a top correctly. I never have had this problem, and I'm not an upholstery guy!

Steve- do you have bow pads under the top fabric at the corners of your top bows? This is a really important key to helping you. The pads should have been included in the top kit. As others have mentioned, the way your top bows are showing thru the top fabric, it sure appears that there are no pads underneath. Dan

From what Adam said above, I guess my '13 is in trouble I never have the top up if I can help it. I love the openness of what an open car is, just that...open! View the sky, the birds, planes whatever all around you. The top is way too confining to me. Might as well have an enclosed car if you're gonna have the top up all the time. Just my lousy opinion! I'll chance the wrinkles!

I prefer the top down for driving but put the top up if it's going to be sitting for awhile. Talk about being folded, mine was in a cardboard shipping box under the car's rear seat for 31 years before I installed it. Left it out in the Sun and the creases disappeared. Any wrinkles are due to it's natural fit.

We put our top up and down frequently, both on our 20 Roadster and our 23 Touring. Hot days touring with a high sun and Teresa likes it up. Gentle drives along shady streams or in timber, I prefer it down. Then there some rainy days we've had on tours!
I agree, it looks like the pads are missing.

Pads do not come with a top kit. They have to be ordered separately. Just the way it is.

Tightening the top is messy.
First it should have pads either side running from the front bow to the rear bow. The front bow should be wrapped in a waterproof material and the other three in black muslin cut on the cross grain. Even so the top can sag.
Norm is correct that it can be tightened along the rear bow by removing the tacks, pulling the material tight and reinstalling the racks. The top is ONLY fastened to the front and rear bows. It is not fastened to the middle two bows. All this work should be in considerable heat, a good summer day in California is perfect. Even then the results can be disappointing An improvement is to lengthen the straps at the front and when the rework is complete, tighten the front straps one hole.
It’s a messy project. No doubt if I was doing it every day I would be more skilled with more predicable results. As it is I’m an an amateur so I must ignore the time involved because I do it for FUN. My advice is to work at it until you are satisfied.

Seroriously, you should park the car on even ground to best illustrate the problem. Then a more reliable set of suggestions may be possible. At least have it on a flat floor when making any corrections. That way the hood bows will be better aligned. Any wracking in the frame will be magnified by the top bows.

Allan from down under.

Another thought (From actual experience)... If the top looked great when it was installed and now looks loose, it could be due to body wood problems.