1915 frame
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Topic author - Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:14 pm
- First Name: Stuart
- Last Name: Hale
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 touring
- Location: Hopkinsville, kentucky
1915 frame
Howdy,
I haven’t messed with T’s in a while. I still have a 1915 touring sitting in the corner of my garage waiting on me to start restoring it. One of its issues is the frame has the running board brackets and fender irons bolted on. It’s a bit beyond my capabilities to rivet them back on. So, my question is, what’s the going rate for a decent frame that I won’t have to rivet back together?
Thanks,
Stuart Hale
Hopkinsville, KY.
I haven’t messed with T’s in a while. I still have a 1915 touring sitting in the corner of my garage waiting on me to start restoring it. One of its issues is the frame has the running board brackets and fender irons bolted on. It’s a bit beyond my capabilities to rivet them back on. So, my question is, what’s the going rate for a decent frame that I won’t have to rivet back together?
Thanks,
Stuart Hale
Hopkinsville, KY.
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 1915 frame
Stuart, that is one of the easier riveting tasks because getting at both sides of the rivet presents no real problem. I suggest you find someone to help you with doing the job correctly. If the rest of your frame is in good shape, finding a better one may be difficult.
Another way is to substitute button head set screws for the rivets. You will still have nuts inside the frame but the recess in the heads of the bolts can be filled and painted.
Your choice.
Allan from down under.
Another way is to substitute button head set screws for the rivets. You will still have nuts inside the frame but the recess in the heads of the bolts can be filled and painted.
Your choice.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 6496
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
- Board Member Since: 2007
- Contact:
Re: 1915 frame
Are the fender irons supposed to be riveted? Mine are bolted on. For the running board brackets I would follow Allan's suggestion and get somebody to help rivet them. Rivets are a lot easier to find and a lot cheaper than another frame at any price.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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- Posts: 3676
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
- First Name: Wayne
- Last Name: Sheldon
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
- Location: Grass Valley California, USA
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: 1915 frame
If you have use of an oxy/acetylene torch? Rivets can be done hot. Rivets can also be done cold. There are advantages to either one, and debates still rage on about which is better. My point is, that even without a torch, riveting can be done by almost anybody, especially with a little help.
I usually have to work alone. Such is life. I use a chunk of heavy scrap iron and C-clamps to buck rivet heads. I find it makes it a one-man-job pretty well. I usually do chassis rivets hot, but have several times done them cold that way.
I usually have to work alone. Such is life. I use a chunk of heavy scrap iron and C-clamps to buck rivet heads. I find it makes it a one-man-job pretty well. I usually do chassis rivets hot, but have several times done them cold that way.
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- First Name: Alex
- Last Name: Brown
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- MTFCI Number: 400
Re: 1915 frame
A helpful tool for the job - https://www.modeltford.com/item/B-BAR-1.aspx
Various sizes available depending on the particular size/location of rivets to be done
Various sizes available depending on the particular size/location of rivets to be done
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- First Name: Mike
- Last Name: Walker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Roadster Pickup
- Location: NW Arkansas
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- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: 1915 frame
As Steve mentioned, you're going to be dealing with only the running board brackets, which are relatively easy. I recommend using an oxy/acy torch and the rivet setting tool linked above. It helps a lot to have someone working with you on this project. Order twice as many rivets as you should need, because they're cheap and you'll need a few extras.
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- Posts: 3327
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
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Re: 1915 frame
As others, re-rivet is an easy task with good tools, cold rivet uses just a good buck at the back side, and if you want to form a nice head, a tool, and a large mallet. Really no substitute for a tight solid rivet, threaded bolts can wear at the threaded shank, with the twisting of a Ford frame, and get loose over time. For hot rivet, a torch is best, heat the rivet and insert, then buck the backside and a pneumatic air tool rivet gun is really handy.
Have done several frame parts with the gun, alone or with a buddy helper, as that is best.
The '15 frame has the running board brackets riveted. In this photo, a partial and poor '15 frame is used as template to drill holes in a later frame to mount the forged running board brackets. Hot rivets used in this one.
Rivet gun
Have done several frame parts with the gun, alone or with a buddy helper, as that is best.
The '15 frame has the running board brackets riveted. In this photo, a partial and poor '15 frame is used as template to drill holes in a later frame to mount the forged running board brackets. Hot rivets used in this one.
Rivet gun
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author - Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:14 pm
- First Name: Stuart
- Last Name: Hale
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 touring
- Location: Hopkinsville, kentucky
Re: 1915 frame
Hi everyone,
Thanks for the replies! I’ll be out in the garage today a little, so I’ll look at my frame again.. It’s been a while.. I want to say the front crossmember needed to be riveted back on, too.. I’ll take a couple pics and see if I can figure out how to post them..
Thanks,
Stuart
Thanks for the replies! I’ll be out in the garage today a little, so I’ll look at my frame again.. It’s been a while.. I want to say the front crossmember needed to be riveted back on, too.. I’ll take a couple pics and see if I can figure out how to post them..
Thanks,
Stuart
-
- Posts: 6496
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
- Board Member Since: 2007
- Contact:
Re: 1915 frame
I had to replace the front cross member in my 1915. Here are some photos.
I bolted in the new piece to keep the holes lined up and replaced the bolts with rivets one or two at a time. I found it most convenient to install a rivet, back it up, and heat it in place.
My neighbor kept the rivets hot and I mashed them.
The awkward part was getting the backup weight in place and clamping it to stay.
I found it most convenient to rivet the brackets on the cross member out of the car and install them together.
I think we did a pretty good job for a couple of novices.
I bolted in the new piece to keep the holes lined up and replaced the bolts with rivets one or two at a time. I found it most convenient to install a rivet, back it up, and heat it in place.
My neighbor kept the rivets hot and I mashed them.
The awkward part was getting the backup weight in place and clamping it to stay.
I found it most convenient to rivet the brackets on the cross member out of the car and install them together.
I think we did a pretty good job for a couple of novices.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Topic author - Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:14 pm
- First Name: Stuart
- Last Name: Hale
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 touring
- Location: Hopkinsville, kentucky
Re: 1915 frame
Howdy,
Thanks for the pictures! So, are the fender irons bolted on? I went and looked at what I could see of my frame and it looks like I was mistaken, the running board brackets and front crossmember are riveted on.. So, having not messed with it in many years, I can’t remember why I didn’t like the frame.
Thanks for the help!
Stuart
Thanks for the pictures! So, are the fender irons bolted on? I went and looked at what I could see of my frame and it looks like I was mistaken, the running board brackets and front crossmember are riveted on.. So, having not messed with it in many years, I can’t remember why I didn’t like the frame.
Thanks for the help!
Stuart
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 1915 frame
The fender irons are bolted on, two bolts on the side and one underneath. Standard 3/8" fine thread bolts and castle nuts, with nuts on the outside of the frame for each.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 3676
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
- First Name: Wayne
- Last Name: Sheldon
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
- Location: Grass Valley California, USA
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: 1915 frame
Yes, the fender irons are bolted on. 3/8 bolts, 24 threads per inch if I recall correctly. Originally, they had castle nuts and cotter pins on the outside and underneath. If you aren't going for trophies or an OCD purist, standard nuts and lock washers work fine. Bolts should be grade 5 or equivalent (good original bolts are fine!).