MTFCA Forum

Howdy,

I haven’t messed with T’s in a while. I still have a 1915 touring sitting in the corner of my garage waiting on me to start restoring it. One of its issues is the frame has the running board brackets and fender irons bolted on. It’s a bit beyond my capabilities to rivet them back on. So, my question is, what’s the going rate for a decent frame that I won’t have to rivet back together?

Thanks,

Stuart Hale

Hopkinsville, KY.

Stuart, that is one of the easier riveting tasks because getting at both sides of the rivet presents no real problem. I suggest you find someone to help you with doing the job correctly. If the rest of your frame is in good shape, finding a better one may be difficult.

Another way is to substitute button head set screws for the rivets. You will still have nuts inside the frame but the recess in the heads of the bolts can be filled and painted.

Your choice.
Allan from down under.

If you have use of an oxy/acetylene torch? Rivets can be done hot. Rivets can also be done cold. There are advantages to either one, and debates still rage on about which is better. My point is, that even without a torch, riveting can be done by almost anybody, especially with a little help.
I usually have to work alone. Such is life. I use a chunk of heavy scrap iron and C-clamps to buck rivet heads. I find it makes it a one-man-job pretty well. I usually do chassis rivets hot, but have several times done them cold that way.

A helpful tool for the job - https://www.modeltford.com/item/B-BAR-1.aspx

Various sizes available depending on the particular size/location of rivets to be done

As Steve mentioned, you're going to be dealing with only the running board brackets, which are relatively easy. I recommend using an oxy/acy torch and the rivet setting tool linked above. It helps a lot to have someone working with you on this project. Order twice as many rivets as you should need, because they're cheap and you'll need a few extras.

As others, re-rivet is an easy task with good tools, cold rivet uses just a good buck at the back side, and if you want to form a nice head, a tool, and a large mallet. Really no substitute for a tight solid rivet, threaded bolts can wear at the threaded shank, with the twisting of a Ford frame, and get loose over time. For hot rivet, a torch is best, heat the rivet and insert, then buck the backside and a pneumatic air tool rivet gun is really handy.

Have done several frame parts with the gun, alone or with a buddy helper, as that is best.

The '15 frame has the running board brackets riveted. In this photo, a partial and poor '15 frame is used as template to drill holes in a later frame to mount the forged running board brackets. Hot rivets used in this one.



Rivet gun

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the replies! I’ll be out in the garage today a little, so I’ll look at my frame again.. It’s been a while.. I want to say the front crossmember needed to be riveted back on, too.. I’ll take a couple pics and see if I can figure out how to post them..

Thanks,

Stuart

I had to replace the front cross member in my 1915. Here are some photos.

I bolted in the new piece to keep the holes lined up and replaced the bolts with rivets one or two at a time. I found it most convenient to install a rivet, back it up, and heat it in place.

My neighbor kept the rivets hot and I mashed them.

The awkward part was getting the backup weight in place and clamping it to stay.

I found it most convenient to rivet the brackets on the cross member out of the car and install them together.

I think we did a pretty good job for a couple of novices.

Howdy,

Thanks for the pictures! So, are the fender irons bolted on? I went and looked at what I could see of my frame and it looks like I was mistaken, the running board brackets and front crossmember are riveted on.. So, having not messed with it in many years, I can’t remember why I didn’t like the frame.

Thanks for the help!

Stuart

The fender irons are bolted on, two bolts on the side and one underneath. Standard 3/8" fine thread bolts and castle nuts, with nuts on the outside of the frame for each.

Allan from down under.

Yes, the fender irons are bolted on. 3/8 bolts, 24 threads per inch if I recall correctly. Originally, they had castle nuts and cotter pins on the outside and underneath. If you aren't going for trophies or an OCD purist, standard nuts and lock washers work fine. Bolts should be grade 5 or equivalent (good original bolts are fine!).