Push Button Starter Switch

[myersair]

Anyone having issues with newly purchased push button starter switches?

Three years ago I replaced my starter switch on my 26 sedan because it was becoming intermittent. That particular switch was on the car for at least 25 years. It’s the same switch used on my Farmall M tractor so.....off to the farm supply store and for $9.99 I purchased one. That switch lasted about 10 starts before it burnt the heal on my boot. Ordered a new switch from a well known model T parts supplier at a cost of $32.00 plus $9.99 shipping That switch was identical to the one I purchased from the farm supply. Even the packaging was identical. That one was better, it lasted about three months before it caught fire. Long story short I average at least two (tractor supply type) starter switches a year. I’m hesitant to purchase another from a model T supply house because I don’t want to pay $40.00 for another piece of junk.

I’ve disassembled the switches to find that the contacts are so thin they weld themselves together or burn off.

I’m very carful to make sure that the battery / starter cable contacts don’t touch and all the connections are tight.

Anyone else having this issue?

Anyone know where I can purchase a high quality switch without doubling the value of the car?

Thanks,

Randy

[Norman Kling]

Are you sure the switches you have bought are for 6 V DC directly from the large battery cable to the starter? Or they made for the solenoid type starter switch which uses low current to the solenoid with the battery cable attached directly at the solenoid? I haven't bought a starter switch recently, but the one I bought either from Lang's or Chaffin's 20 years ago still works fine. I have been on many tours and drive around town from time to time as well. It fits right where the original switch was located and is connected directly to the battery and the starter. I also have original switches on the other two T's.
If you are having trouble with the ones you bought from our vendors and they are advertised as for use connecting directly between the battery and the starter, you should notify the vendor.
Norm

[Jonah D'Avella]

Same trouble here, try rebuilding an original one, not that hard, will be better made.

[Allan]

If you can find an original one with a good copper contact bridge, rebuilding an original is the best way to go. I think the problem with all the replacements is the bridge pieces are not made with the same material as the old ones. Repeated use and heat generation causes them to loose their 'spring', and they do not disengage as they should. I believe the material used in the bridge should be like that used in the coilbox contacts. Again, there was a problem with those contacts too, until a new supplier sorted out the material problem with those.

Hope this helps, Allan from down under.

[RajoRacer]

Besides using the "better" USA made starter switch on 3 of my T's & selling them out of my parts business since they became available years ago, I've not had any problems with mine nor have been notified by any of my customers regarding said replacement switch.

[myersair]

Steve,
Sent you a PM.

[TonyB]

Over the years I’ve had many Model T starter switches fail so now I always install a starter solenoid. This way I can achieve two objectives
1 I use the solenoid from the Model A and to date never had one fail on either my car or any customers car.
2. I can interlock to the ignition switch so it doesn’t accidentally operate when climbing into the driving seat.
Contact me if you need details.

[myersair]

Tony,
I’ve often thought about doin what you mentioned (installing a starter solenoid). I’ve already have a solenoid and I’ll power that with a small push button switch mounted on the dash. That’s my project for tomorrow!

[TRDxB2]

There was a previous discussion not long ago https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... ch#p140154 I had posted what I believe is ONE of the issues with the switch. The issue is related to how the switch is depressed. If the plunger is pushed in on an angle it may mot engage properly because how the plunger tube is connected to the base with a few bent tabs.

sw2.jpg (66.87 KiB) Viewed 3053 times

Another issue is the thin contacts and sitting in a steel cup with no drain hole.

Use the switch to activate a hidden solenoid and be happy

[halftracknut]

call a military jeep parts house like Peter Debella jeep parts and get a nos switch for a M151 jeep ....these are 24volt end of problem

[TXGOAT2]

When I was a little kid, starter buttons were common in cars and pickups. My brother and I called them "startle buttons".

[TXGOAT2]

I believe there are at least 2 types of 6V starter solenoids used on Fords up through about 1954-55. One type is externally grounded, and it will close when the small terminal is grounded. The other type is internally grounded, and it will close when the small terminal is connected to battery current. Many of these type solenoids have a small button on the case that will close the contacts if you press it. I believe the externally grounded units were typically used on vehicles that had a dashboard starter button, and the externally grounded ones were used on later vehicles on which the ignition key had a start position, as in Acc/Off/On/Start, such as '52 '53 and '54 Ford cars.

[Adam]

It’s pretty unusual to have that many switch failures, maybe its the switch, but I’d be looking pretty close at “everything else”. If it is not a switch issue, I’d suspect the cables. (Cables too small, or cables with failing connections.) If the problem isn’t the switch and you replace it with something more “durable”, then all that extra load goes into the starter...

[Dan Hatch]

I use the solenoid with the inside ground and the little button. This way I can always push that button if something goes wrong with the control switch. I use the original Ford switch to work the solenoid. Dan

[Mikey1968]

We have a Farmall H with that similar starter switch. The new switch lasted very few starts until it was fried and shorted to ground internally. The new switches are pretty much junk. I think something happened to the quality a few years back as, so far, the newer one in my T (unknown when prior owner replaced it) is so far so good.

Is this $65 switch the one referred to? Does it fit the T correctly? Additionally, will it fit the Farmall H mounting bracket? https://www.debellajeepparts.com/MB_ELE ... ATALOG.htm

If this expensive switch is one and done, I'm willing to spend $$ for quality.

Thanks,
Mike

[TRDxB2]

We have a Farmall H with that similar starter switch. The new switch lasted very few starts until it was fried and shorted to ground internally. The new switches are pretty much junk. I think something happened to the quality a few years back as, so far, the newer one in my T (unknown when prior owner replaced it) is so far so good.

Is this $65 switch the one referred to? Does it fit the T correctly? Additionally, will it fit the Farmall H mounting bracket? https://www.debellajeepparts.com/MB_ELE ... ATALOG.htm

If this expensive switch is one and done, I'm willing to spend $$ for quality.

Thanks,
Mike

It appears to use the same top plate but the underside is different and the plunger is connected differently. The spot welds also would make for a stronger unit versus the bent tabs. No question on the better insulation around the wire connections. Perhaps the "others" are immitations

[myersair]

Adam,
I’ve replaced all my battery/ starter cables with new single O Teflon coated cable. I too was thinking that maybe the wiring was to small to handle the amperage. However.... it didn’t seem to help!
Randy

[TXGOAT2]

Starter problems can overload the starter switch. A "dragging" starter or one with internal electrical problems can draw a lot more current than a starter in good condition. That's a situation that will shorten the life of any starter switch, and it would probably destroy a cheap-o switch in short order. It's also hard on the battery, and will contribute to difficult starting or no starting. A starter in poor condition can draw as much as twice the normal current while delivering slow cranking speed and pulling the system voltage down so low that the ignition system may work poorly or fail to work at all during cranking.

[J1MGOLDEN]

The started switch that is bent up on the mounting bracket, due to a shorter plunger section is a much better quality switch.

The Standard Auto Parts starter switches are about $35.00 to $39.00 now and are also a much better quality switch.

[myersair]

I finished installing the starter solenoid in the T today. It only took 90 minutes start to finish. what a difference..... nothing gets hot and it cranks much faster. It also starts faster, I think that old style starter switch lost so much amperage across its contacts and turned it into heat instead of sending it to the starter.
I used a new farm store push button switch like was in the car to energize the solenoid. That switch now only draws a few amps so it should last forever.
It also looks original .
I purchased the switch and solenoid at Fleet Farm.......Total cost $26.00.