MTFCA Forum

Hello all. I just bought a box of ten (10) circa 1930 Mazda 32 & 32 CP, 6 to 8V auto headlight bulbs. Can these be used on my 1926 Model T? It makes one wonder how an original box of ten survived 90 years without ever being used. Then I come along. LOL! The vintage box looks good in the tool box in the trunk of my T. With both filaments being 32 candle power, is there a bright and a dim? Thank you. Jim Patrick

Around 1930 my mother worked for the Mazda Lamp Co. in Okland, Ca. Her job was to put the little solder dots on the socket. I wonder if she might have had a part in the manufacture of those bulbs? I guess we will never know!
Norm

Bright and dim (high and low) are determined by which filament is on. The top filament results in low bean, and the lower filament high beam. The reflector shape determines where the light goes. These may actually have the filaments in the correct orientation as the new bulbs give you a left and right beam. Bill Robinson and I have modified our light sockets to actually get a high and low beam.

There appears to be a center filament and a filament that is next to and offset from the center filament. I believe that the center filament would be the high beam since it would utilize the entire reflector, while the offset filament would be the low beam since it would utilize the upper part of the reflector, directing the beam downward. Is this right? Jim Patrick.

PS. Very interesting, Norm. On one of the bulbs, the solder is perfect. That must be the one your Mother did. Thanks for sharing.

Mine are Westinghouse Mazda Lamps, 21/21 1114. When I got the box is still had 8 out of 10 still in it, I have used 2 of those. On mine the offset goes to the top and is so marked on the bulb. Check you fit to make sure the filament is horizontal not vertical when the bulb is installed. Different cars had the contacts orientated different. Also make sure the globe is not loose from the base, super glue will fix that.

...make sure the globe is not loose from the base, super glue will fix that.

Glue it even if it doesn't seem loose. Spray silicone lubricant in the socket and on the base before you put the bulb in and try to turn it. I once went through seven spare bulbs that twisted in the base and were wrecked. I didn't drive anywhere that night.

Great advise, Mark and Steve. I would have never thought of doing that before ruining several of these priceless (to me) bulbs. Thank you. Jim Patrick

PS. I will probably continue the tradition of the past 90 years of owners of these bulbs and not use them, just being satisfied with having a full box of ten.

The empty box looks just as good sitting on the shelf as a full one! You could replace the good bulbs as you need them with the burnt out ones if you wanted to fill the holes.

Steve Jeff is right on the money. glue all Your bulbs weather they need it or not. I use the Bondic UV setting glue / compound
doesn't stick to Your fingers like super glue. run a bead around the old glass to base seal and then use the UV light on the end of dispenser pen to run around the base and harden the glue. No Fuss No Mess. Bondic can also be used to build up worn surfaces with multiple layers and can be sanded. I don't get a commission. just think the stuff is great. same stuff the Dentist uses to hold Your teeth together.

I believe the 1000 bulbs are Model A.