MTFCA Forum

For a few years I've been using permanent rubber gaskets on my transmission inspection cover. One is on the cover itself. I made it by smearing Ultra Black on a paper gasket and sticking it to the cover, then smearing on another layer of Ultra Black. Then I slathered grease on the top surface of the oil screen so the Ultra Black would not stick to it. The second gasket was the same, stuck on the bottom surface of the oil screen with grease smeared on the hogshead. This saves having to scrape off an old gasket and install a new one every time I pull the cover. I just smear on some new grease and put in the screws. I'm sure others do this too. I'm doing the same thing on valve covers, with Ultra Black and cork gaskets on the covers and grease on the block.

The experiment I'm trying now is to see if this will also work with the engine inspection cover when it has a lot of hot oil flowing over it.

Installation studs hold the horseshoes in place and guide the cover when I put it on.

Wires through the studs hold the horseshoes close enough for the cap screws to reach them.

A layer of Ultra Black, then paper, then another layer of Ultra Black.

Grease goes on the cover.

With the studs holding the horseshoes and cover in place, put in all but four of the cap screws.

Then pull out the wires, remove the studs, and put in the four remaining cap screws.

One of these days I'll have the engine back in the car and we'll see if this works.

I have been using oil instead of grease for years this way. Example: Transmission cover: I spread a thin layer of motor oil on the hogs head side where gasket will contact. Silicone the lid & screen gaskets. Seals 100 %. When the time comes to remove, the whole assembly separates clean from the hogs head. Re oil & add more ultra.
Crank case to engine, hogs head, dipper cover, & valve covers. Those places where one is likely to want a clean gasket separation.

Your modified pin idea looks real good. I like the added hole for a wire to hold the gasket up.
I'm gonna do that for the next customer rod job.
I typically bolt the cover to the pan before engine assembly & tack weld the horse shoes in.
Then remove the cover & gasket it up.

I like the added hole for a wire to hold the gasket up.

The wire holds up the horseshoe. If you're doing this the other way, with the engine right side up, the goo should hold up the gasket. In that case gravity holds the horseshoes down, the studs keep them in position, and the wires aren't needed.

You use Ultra Black for a lot of other purposes, why not when you have the pan off clean the inside where the horse shoes go and stick it in place with Ultra Black and run the bolts down to hold it tight in place. I have been doing this for years on many Ts and it works for me and it lasts for years.

Denis. that sounds like a good way to go.
I thought ultra being submersed in hot oil might loosen it, then i am back to fighting them horse shoes.
I have experienced that hardware soaking in solvent lifts the ultra off.

Great way to do that Steve!, I have done something similar just using rtv silicone. Not using any gasket, smear on the rtv then a temporary wax paper gasket. Install with just enough pressure to flatten and extrude some rtv, let it dry and remove the wax paper= reusable gasket with no other sealer needed. Works great on the hogs head cover. Love the stud idea. Good post! jw

It works for me, if I just glue the gasket on one side.

Smearing a little blue stuff around the screw threads helps even more.