MTFCA Forum

I'm in the process of replacing the rear axle seals in my 1926 Tudor and I'm not sure if I should replace the friction material on the brake band while I have it apart.
Hopefully the pictures I took came through ok, the band lining is about 3/16" thick however the brass rivets are exposed and in my thinking they should be countersunk

Also how do you get the inner axle seal out of the housing? Does the bearing sleeve have to come out first?

Thank you Gentlemen.

Scott,
Last year I noticed the same thing with the rivets on my '26 shoes and actually removed some material to allow the heads to sit below surface but that was a year ago and I don't remember how I did it.
I also replaced the seals with the new type and installed new sleeves with the tool. Again, I don't remember how but I merely followed the instructions in the book and in the club rear end manual. Wasn't too hard with the manufactured tool as my homemade tool for the sleeves did not work.

Those shoes look like new to me. If it were on my car, I would use them just as they are. The purpose of that brake is to hold the car when parked and would only be used for braking in an emergency when the other brakes failed. Remember that when you pull back on that lever you go into neutral so the effect of engine braking is lost unless you are in low gear.
You would get very little wear on the drum, rivet head, if used as Henry intended.
Norm

Originally Ford would have used a brass split rivet installed like the band linings. I think the tangs on the bands, as the lining wore, would keep spreading as they were forced down into it, the rivets in the brake lining would work the same way. As the brakes were meant to be parking brakes, what is installed now should not be an issue. If you were to install one of the equalizers, then you might change to the split rivet. As it is now the lining looks to be in good shape.

Lang's sells a brake riveting tool. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2566RVTL.aspx This tool includes a counter sink so that the expanded end of the tube rivets sit below the lining. I used this set up on my linings and it works great. Trick is to not countersink too deep. Perhaps using a drill press and setting a stop would be the best way to go on counter sinking.

john.zibell wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:08 am

Lang's sells a brake riveting tool. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2566RVTL.aspx This tool includes a counter sink so that the expanded end of the tube rivets sit below the lining. I used this set up on my linings and it works great. Trick is to not countersink too deep. Perhaps using a drill press and setting a stop would be the best way to go on counter sinking.

I’ve just used the brake riveting tool from Langs. It worked great the only problem I had was the Counter sinking tool got dull after the first shoe. I did resharpen it with the file and did the second shoe. The hole job took me about an hour and I’ve never done it before so just to make sure the rivets doesn’t rub the inside of the drums I would countersink them

Thank you everyone for the great advice, I'll be re using the lining material but ordering the rivet tool and some new rivets so they can be counter sunk.

Scott, your rivets look to be tubular, but not having seen just how your rivets were installed or how much they are worn, it looks to me that they could be reset and be just fine. Maybe use a center punch to spread them a bit and finish with a ball pien hammer, lightly. JMHO. Dave