Actual Board for Running Board End details?

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ivaldes1
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Actual Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Sun Apr 04, 2021 12:15 pm

Hi all, Attached is the goal for Hay wagon to speedster project. It is not what I have right now. ;-) A local carpenter is going to do the running board as a board. It will be multi-color wood clear coated with automotive clear. Should be great. I need some details though. In the picture it looks as though the end of the fender and the wood are simply stacked on top of one another on top of the hanger. Is that the way it goes? Also I am using 1 inch thick x 8.25 inch x 45 inch as the wood dimensions. Is that what it should be?
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Last edited by ivaldes1 on Thu Apr 08, 2021 12:09 am, edited 1 time in total.


Allan
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Allan » Sun Apr 04, 2021 9:19 pm

Ignatio, many of our colonial bodied cars in Australia had wooden running boards. Most were rubber or linoleum covered. Most were edged with 1" aluminium edging, that having raised ridges on the top side to prevent feet slipping. On my speedster, I used plain boards, of whatever length the design dictates, the fenders simply bolting up underneath the boards at each end.
Automotive clear is NOT suitable for use on timber. You need to use something like a marine spar varnish Others will be able to advise suitable US brands.

Allan from down under.

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TonyB
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by TonyB » Sun Apr 04, 2021 9:36 pm

The regular Ford running boards are mounted with a block of wood under metal Board and the fender goes underneath.
On the 09 there were different size bolts for mounting the boards on the supports and smaller mounting the fenders. I’ve forgot what size they were except the fender ones were smaller. Later cars all seem to have the same size bolts.
I too would recommend marine varnish for any wood used in a automotive application.
Your dimensions for the wood block seem about correct. 😊
Tony Bowker
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Allan » Mon Apr 05, 2021 2:38 am

The thickness of the board will be approximately the same as the original running board plus the original wooden spacer used when they are fitted. Just bolt the fenders to the underside of the wooden running board.

Allan from down under.


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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Luxford » Mon Apr 05, 2021 8:32 am

Allan, Have to disagree with you on the Automotive clear. It is ideal for use on a timber running board as are auto 2 part colors.
what you need is a strong hard clear which you can step on which won't scratch easily.
I've had a 2 part clear Auto paint on the wheel spokes and dash panel on my Kamper and color on the body, been on there for over 20 years.
Marine spar varnish is a far inferior clear finish compared to todays auto clears, A 2 part marine polyurethane clear would be a better option. It works on a boat so would be good on a car.

Ignatio, you might even like to go the full hog (more expensive) and use a ceramic clear they use on high end auto's it's virtually scratch proof.

To apply the clear after mixing it, thin the first coat more than recommended to spray and rub it in to the grain with a brush so it penetrates into the timber and then apply the normal clear with two coats. If you want to let it set, rub any marks out and apply another coat.

As it is expensive, if you have mixed too much up and it would do a another coat of clear, place it in a sealed container and put it in the fridge. When you are ready take it out let it go to room temperature and spray it on. ( the cold prevents the reaction between the hardener and the clear as heat is generated when the clear sets)


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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Allan » Tue Apr 06, 2021 1:30 am

Peter, I am an amateur painter and have not had much luck with any automotive lacquer finishes over timber. Enamels yes, but not acrylics, even with the correct primers/undercoats. Your input using two pack paint systems is not something with which I am familiar, except that I can't use them in my back yard. Lacquer is far more forgiving of this amateur's efforts.
Are the products to which you refer more forgiving of timber's expansion/contraction in relation to humidity/temperature in the old car environment. Even urethanes will crack up over time, but hold up much better than anything else i have tried.
Allan from down under.


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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Luxford » Tue Apr 06, 2021 9:00 am

Allan,
Lacquers are not a good idea on wood, they dry too fast when the solvent evaporates this usually leads to the moisture in the timber been drawn out of it. Because of the fast drying they have been used on timber furniture most commonly on music instruments such as guitars but Nitro cellulose ones hate sunlight and the Acrylic Lacquers are as I mentioned, savage on the timber moisture content.

Lacquers need lots of solvent so they need several coats too build up enough of a coating. So each coat takes more moisture out.
Enamels on the other hand tend to be opposite, they have little solvent (dry slower also) but leave a thick coating so only 2 maybe 3 is more than enough.
Good urethanes won't crack easily, usually they can last 20 to 30 years. All the modern ones have additives which can be added to make them more flexible ( so they can coat soft plastic parts) and can be altered to suit any problem the surface such as timber might have. Good thing about the 2 part ones is they don't get affected by most solvents or other corrosive things once they dry/harden. On cars they speed up the drying with heat, with timber just let it dry in the air, if you need to you can change the drying time by using faster or slower hardeners and thinners.

Any timber which is faulty or poor quality will move so much no paint can cope with it but good strong timbers like hickory and ash they are ideal for the top grade urethanes. The main thing is to brush on the first coat with thinned material ( primer or clear if it goes on to the timber) if you spray air hits the timber first, it builds up in the grain and stops the the paint soaking in so you can get air bubbles under the coating,

Don't know how small your back yard is but I would have thought you were a fair way from neighbours and if you used a small gravity feed spray gun and it was a calm sunny day you could easily spray a body panel or a wood spoke wheel without any problem. There must be a T Ford guy who is a painter in your club who can give you a bit of a guide. For the same effort the results are far better so worth the trouble (and extra money) Nothing worse than spending lots of time doing the prep and finding the result does not last any reasonable length of time.

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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by George House » Tue Apr 06, 2021 11:30 am

Ignacio, would you consider getting some running board brass trim from Restoration Supply in CA ? It’s provided exclusively for wood (timber) running boards and I think would nicely complement your present brass.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people 🤪

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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:27 pm

Here is a preliminary with a defect that is going to become a cutting board. It is 1 inch thick. He has them in 3/4 inch thick I am trying to decide which.
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IMG_7478.jpg


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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Allan » Tue Apr 06, 2021 10:39 pm

19mm is standard these days, roughly 3/4". With the rubber/linoleum on top, the 1" alloy angle is a neat fit. If the timbers are hardwoods, 19mm is plenty strong enough over the short span on a T. Love the GT stripe!

Allan from down under.

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ivaldes1
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 2:18 pm

Thanks Alan, I have a running board and fender wood block set from Lang's. https://www.modeltford.com/item/4822E.aspx Do they go on top of the running board bracket in between the running board and the bracket or some other way? On the fender to running board joins (4 of them) do they go under the join or in between? Also there is 2 pieces that have a slope cut on one side of the wood. Where do they go and in what orientation? I have to ask because my Touring does not have the wood at all.

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ivaldes1
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 2:36 pm

I found this discussion with pictures: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/88639.html which indicates the wood goes in between on the fender to RB joins. I don't have the metal 'strap' or reinforcement described. :-(

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ivaldes1
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 2:43 pm

So I would need to slope the front edge of the board for the front fender since it would be a solid piece. I am wondering about the 3/4 inch because I measure the thickness of a steel one as being 1 inch so I would suspect that 3/4 inch would throw it off from the original? The photos show that the fenders attach to the bottom of the RB with the wood block in-between.

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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by George Mills » Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:17 pm

Ignacio,

Couple of things...

Depending year...some of the running board to fender tie ups did not have wood cleats, others did. With the wood, I believe it was always the center of the sandwich with the running board on top...

As to length, I think you may need to think some more. What are your front fenders, what are your rear? The photo you show of the inspirational white speedster just might have 16 or latter front renders turned backwards and swapped side to side. This would result is a shorter running board being required.

If you are using same year stuff as fenders go all the way around then the length would be the same as a standard Ford running board.

As to notching the lower corner of your wood...think it through. I seem to recall trying to use a set of repro blocks on a car not meant to take them...forget what year but probably later...I do think I had to belt sand away some of the block to get the proper 'lay-in'.

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ivaldes1
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 8:35 pm

I did a test fit of one side with a early running board, see picture. Superficially looked ok to me.
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IMG_0187 (1).jpg


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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by Allan » Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:33 pm

Ignatio, you don't need any wooden blocks. The blocks go under the metal running boards and the fenders go under the blocks. Bolting the fenders directly to the underside of the wooden running board will give just the same alignment.

Allan from down under.

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ivaldes1
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Re: Acutal Board for Running Board End details?

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 10:29 pm

Agree. I think I will have to slope the front edge a little for the front fender. I think I am going to do the 3/4 inch thick. I re-measured and the interior of a running board to the edge is 3/4 inch and the wood blocks from Lang's are 3/4 inch. It is only the lip width that is 1 inch.
Allan wrote:
Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:33 pm
Ignatio, you don't need any wooden blocks. The blocks go under the metal running boards and the fenders go under the blocks. Bolting the fenders directly to the underside of the wooden running board will give just the same alignment.

Allan from down under.

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