MTFCA Forum

I am starting a pie wagon project and plan to have interior lighting which will recuire 12 volt system. I have read the posts suggesting that running 12 volts to the starter is hard on the flywheel and ring gear. My question can I have my 6 volt starter converted to 12 volts and if so would the converted starter be as hard on the fly wheel?

I am not a expert on starters. but have seen conversion articles where the four coils are rewired for twelve volts. didn't say any thing about the armature which I assume stays stock 6 volts. They make a 12 volt model T gear reduction starter the vendors sell. from all accounts works well. low impact on ring gear but doesn't look or sound like a stock model T starter. You can leave the car and electrical system stock 6 volts and add a small 12 volt battery just for lights. 12 volt phone charger. and GPS. they make a lot of different types of low power high lumen 12 volt replacement lights. The 12 volt battery can be charged off Your car magneto with a simple diode/incandescent light bulb charger. or just use 6 volt LED bulbs and lights which are available. I use 6 volt led headlights on My T very bright low current draw.

You can use #4 Ga. wire for the hot line to achieve resistance. Throw an extra loop in the #4Ga. line for maximum resistance, if not storing the battery at the back of the car. Good idea to have a master power kill switch, no matter what set-up you decide on.
Scott

I originally installed a stock 6 volt starter and used it with my 12 volt system. I put the battery under the back seat and ran #4 wire to the starter which should have resulted in some voltage drop under load. With some misgivings, I followed the advice of some folks I respect and made a little pigtail from the solenoid (yeah, I used a solenoid) with an old bendix spring on it.

My observations:
Normally, it worked pretty good. It didn't sound like I was abusing the starter. On tours, I did experience a couple of instances where I or my friend (who helped me restore my car) stalled the car and the starter didn't seem to want to turn it over very well when hot. I have a Z high compression head which may have been part of the problem but someone would have to get out and crank the engine over off compression, then it would turn over and start with the starter.

I was on a tour last summer and the connector on my pigtail broke. Fortunately I had a spare pigtail without the old bendix spring. After installing it, I and my friend both thought it sounded like the starter was "slamming" harder than before.

With Covid, I had too much time to think so I decided to investigate 12 volt starters. Heck, my '17 didn't come with a starter so I'd already insulted the purists out there by putting one on. In addition to the issues described above I'd had bendix trouble on a tour in 2019 and decided maybe it was time to go modern. I ended up installing a WOSP 12 volt geared starter and have been very happy with it. It has a built in solenoid, no troublesome bendix and installs and removes easily. When you hit the key, the built-in bendix first engages the gear, then spins the starter. That way you aren't grinding the bendix gear into the ring gear when it engages. It sounds a little different and looks a little different if you open the hood but it works well. I still carry a few spare bendix parts with me, but just in case somebody else needs them WOSP starters don't cost that much more than a rebuilt original unit. I sold my old starter and recovered most of the cost of the WOSP.

Why not just buy a 12 volt battery and run a separate circuit for your lighting? Cheaper than replacing a starter. You probably have a charger already, so you only need a battery.