MTFCA Forum

The attached two photos show the rear spring on the 1927 coupe. How do I remove it? It appears that the "sides" of the cross member may have been "squeezed" together.

I just noticed that the holes are oblong. Is that a problem?

Bruce,
The holes are oblong. The spring leafs shift out from center through their life like our spines. Yours are most likely wedged in the cross member. Try to remove the center bolt and then the leafs. Or otherwise, Oil, Spank, Pry, .....
Ken Buhler

Bruce, I think part of your problem is your car is upside down. If you flip it over the spring might drop out.

Seriously, it looks like you need to spread the cross member using whatever method is easiest for you. If the axle is already detached, there is nothing holding the spring in place. A 12 year old could lift that spring out of the cross member. You could remove the bolt, but that does not solve the problem of the squeezed cross member.

I would not worry too much about the oblong holes. The spring hangers and the bolt head in the hole in the cross member is what holds the spring in place. When you do get it out, look at the head of the bolt. It should be a tall head, taller than a normal bolt. If it is short, call Bob's in Loves Park Illinois to get the correct bolt. He has them manufactured.

The register marks in the cross member flange either side of the centre bolt indicate that something extra has been bolted on, perhaps a trailer hitch of some sort. That is what is making your task more difficult. You may need to lever the spring out, working from side to side. Once it is out, a great big crescent wrench could be used to reform the sides of the cross member.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

David, Look at the bolt head. Why did you say the head should be taller than a normal bolt head?

I got the spring out of the cross member. After I took the bolt out the leafs separated a small amount and out came the spring!

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3838OR.aspx

There should be a square hole in the crossmember. This is what helps to keep the spring centered in the crossmember. A taller head will help you install the spring and keep it in place. The bolt you have is probably not original. The spring hangers just hold it in place. There was a discussion a gew years ago, but I cannot pull it up.

Here is the rear spring bolt sold by Snyder’s. As mentioned, it fits into the square hole and helps to center the spring in the crossmember so it can be secured by the shackles then helps to keep the spring centered in the crossmember. You will need to take your spring apart and paint the surface of each leaf with slip paint (black graphite paint) that is available at Tractor Supply. When bolting the leafs together, make sure the square bolt head is lined up properly to fit into the square crossmember hole. When I installed mine, the bolt head protruded slightly above the top of the crossmember. There is also a rubber spring cushion pad that goes between roof of the crossmember and top of the spring. From 1909 to 1920 they were leather. From 1921 to 1927, they were rubber. Jim Patrick

Bruce, be carful, that rear spring can fly apart as you take off the fasteners. Clamp the center or put some all-thread through the center holes to allow you to disassemble it slowly rather than an explosion.

I'll second what Jeff said about leaf springs. They can be very dangerous to work on, so think what you are doing and be careful.

Before blasting and/or priming and painting the inside of the crossmember, you should expand the sides enough so that the leaf spring will slide easily into position but not so much as to make it too wide for the two spring clamps that go through the 4 holes and hold the spring in. You can do it easily with a proper sized oak block and a couple of wooden wedges on each side tap it a until it opens up. It still needs to be snug enough to hold the spring upright but not so tight as to lock it in.

When assembling the leafs back together, after cleaning and lubricating, use the same piece of all-thread you used to disassemble the leafs to pull them back together. When the leafs are secured together with the two small clamps, exchange the all-thread for the bolt. Tighten, making sure the square bolt head is aligned properly. Grind off the excess threads leaving about 1/8” and brad the end so the nut cannot come off. Jim Patrick

This shows why it's better to sandblast after the chassis it totally disassembled.