MTFCA Forum

I wonder if there is a good fix for a loose bearing race in the front wheel hub of the model T? The tolerance is about 012 thousand and the race just drops in. Has any one use the Lock tight product to tighten the race in the housing?
The hub is a Three bolt Ash wire wheel. Let me know that you have done with this problem. Tom

Green loctite used to be a saver in the racing world, but I have never tried it in a T front hub.

There will be some who will poo-poo using a "strawberry fit" on a front wheel bearing race. But in my younger years with no money for "good stuff" I have fixed many a worn out hub on 1960s and 70s era cars and trucks that travel way faster than a T ever will. . To do a "strawberry fit" you take a center punch and punch the entire inner surface of the hub where the race sits. Get as many punch pricks as possible that are still separated from each other. You want the inside of the hub to look like a bunch of "strawberry seeds" Then use a Lock Tight type of product for bearing races or bushings. I have used "press fit" by permatex in the past. I do not know if they still make it or not. I think Lock Tight also has a "press fit" product. This technique has been used by mechanics and machinests for years to save hard to get items. When pressing in the race after doing the "strawberry seed pricks" Make sure to keep the area behind the race clear of the little metal flecks that are sheared off the top of the "strawberry seeds" when installing the race. There will not be much flecks but just watch to see that it is clear. That way the race will "seat" all the way back in the hub.

But, (disclaimer) You must make your own decisions as to if it will work for you. I personally would have no issue doing a "strawberry fit" but I can not decide for you. Others on the forum will probably chime in with their own opinions...

I have used "Strawberry fit" lots of times with not as many punch marks as above, worked for me, Locktite 660 completes the repair, if you can get it. Dave in Bellingham

Best fix was for a 3 lug hub, Disteel, was to take hub and new race to a machine shop.
Had same issue, race just flopped, too loose for Loctite, even JB Weld, as that cement won’t let the race stay centered.

Shop reamed the bore slightly, place a machined sleeve to allow the new race to be properly press-fitted.
Cost was less than the new Timken bearing to ride in the new race

loctite 660 is still available. excellent in this application.

DanTreace wrote: ↑

Sat May 08, 2021 10:55 pm

Best fix was for a 3 lug hub, Disteel, was to take hub and new race to a machine shop.

Shop reamed the bore slightly, place a machined sleeve to allow the new race to be properly press-fitted.
Cost was less than the new Timken bearing to ride in the new race

That can work if your hub has enough "meat" left in it, such that it doesn't weaken the hub. Along the machine shop route, would also be the option of having the hub bore ground, to "clean it up", then have it hard chromed and ground back to the proper size. Wouldn't be worth the cost for an ordinary T hub, but this one is different!

I have used loctite 660 on several hubs. I assemble the race in hub and tighten on the axle to center the race. Has always turned smooth and held up.


John

It sounds to me like the strawberry fit process amounts to hand knurling.

Look up Metalizing or Spray welding. This is used all over the world to fix what you are talking about.
I have used it to fix all kinds of shafts, pulleys and hubs for many years.
Used to fix 26/27 wire wheel hubs. Last I had done years ago cost was $50.00 hub.
Hub has to be clean as new born baby. This permanent fix. Dan

If the hub is that worn, it is very likely work-hardened, which means it is not as strong as it should be. If it was properly cleaned and Magnafluxed, I wouldn’t be surprised if there were cracks too. Most every wood wheel hub I’ve seen with that degree of wear had some cracking present. What you have is rarer and more valuable than a plain old wood wheel hub, so the temptation is there to fix it, but if it was me, I’d scrap it.

100+ year old car with no seatbelts, rollbar, or safety equipment besides the guy who works on it and the guy behind the wheel...

According to Timken, a Locktite product shouldn’t be used in the presence of a Timken tapered bearing. I’m guessing Locktite says it’s a great fix though...

The 660 locktite is made for filling the gap for worn shafts & bearing races. It is thick like toothpaste. Designed for gaps to .5mm. I have used in this exact application on 27 W/W hubs with no failures (yet) with & without "strawberry" pricking.

Thanks guys. Al your comments are dully noted. I think I will try the lock tite 660. Tom