MTFCA Forum

Hello all,
I'm planning on purchasing the Sure Stop disk brake kit and install it on my 26 Touring with wire wheels. Is there an issue with the swaged wheel studs on the hub? I do not have a press. Will I need the swage cutter tool and the installation tool? If so, can I swage using the tool and a BFH? I was reading the pdf instructions on Texas T's site I downloaded a while back and there is no mention of needing these tools.
Thanks for your help!
Mike

The brake kit comes with new brake drums that include the disc portion welded to them. The new brake drums also have the lugs installed. I hope this helps.
Thanks,
Craig French

My previous posting is incorrect. I installed my brakes on a car with safety hubs or floating hubs. Those hubs had the studs installed already and I only needed to slip the new brake drum over the hub studs. If you don't have those style hubs you will need to install the old studs on the brake drum assembly. You will need a press or a BFH as noted in your original message. Sorry for the incorrect information. Memories fade faster than stock Model T brakes.

Thanks,
Craig French

The Rockies on my 27 Tudor are scary. Brake fade after a few stops, So I am considering he Disk kit. A couple of more questions. Instructions say to heat the plastic components before installing. How did you heat and how much? And where did you mount the fluid reservoir? On the firewall like the picture?

I bought a set for my 27 with wire wheels. When I picked them up at Chickasha I asked about the studs. My understanding is I will need to remove the old studs and original brake drums from my hubs. Then install the new drums that have the disc and studs welded to them. The studs are already installed in the new drums. Then I use the lug nuts to pull the new studs and disc/drum assembly into place on my hubs. At least that is how I understand it. I have not installed my brakes yet so I can not speak from actual experience. As to the stud cutter to remove the flange on the old studs. I'm Im unsure about that. I know a couple 26/27 owners who installed the reservoir under the seat on driver side. That's where Ill probably mount mine

Installation instructions may be found here <http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant ... ode=Safety>

I have disc brakes and floating hubs on my 1917 and absolutely love them. I chose to mount the reservoir under the front seat in the left front corner, adjacent to the gas tank. Just place it higher than the master cylinder.

Disc brakes work wet or dry, forwards or backwards. They don't grab or require adjustment. Replacement pads are readily available but a set should last a long time. These are quality units... the only drawback is that some folks don't like the look. If you have wire wheels I would think they would be less obvious than on wood spoked wheels like mine. Regardless, I like being able to stop reliably.

Also wondering about needing a hub puller tool. The one's I've seen seem to only work on the wood wheel hubs.

I mounted the fluid reservoir on the inside of the firewall, next to the coil box. You can see it, but that's the point. I can check the fluid level with just a glance at any time, and the coil box hides most of it so it's not obtrusive.

I heated the plastic with a hair dryer. And I installed the reservoir under the seat, in the compartment my car has behind the gas tank. It did make it a little more challenging bleeding the brakes in this location, but I liked it that it was less obtrusive, than mounted to the firewall.

You will need a hub puller for wire wheel hubs. They are different than a wood wheel puller.

I do not think you will have much luck finding a puller. Best bet is to buy a pitman arm puller and
grind it down until it fits. I believe you want to 2 1/2 inch puller. Available at Harbor Freight for about $10

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductD ... el-a/tools
This is the best around and works on a and t

What are u guys heating up with a heat gun?

Good ideas on a puller!

dmdeaton wrote: ↑

Tue May 11, 2021 10:07 pm

What are u guys heating up with a heat gun?

There is a plastic component that is attached to the master cylinder. You heat that up a bit so it installs easily. If you download the instructions you will see the reference.

So will I need this tool as part of the project?

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2883RT.aspx

Go to Birdhavens webpage, they have complete instructions listed online for the kit.

I highly recommend Sure Stop Disk brakes!!!

I have done that. All it says in the instructions is:
Remove the
rear wheels from the car and remove the rear hubs.
Remove the old brake drums from the hubs. The bolts
need to be pressed out one at a time with a backer tube
behind so as not to bend the hub.

My research shows that the studs have a swage that may need removing before pressing out. Having never removed studs on a T, I am wondering if I need the expensive tool as part of the project.

I have R&R'd studs from W/W hubs. Just pressed them out. Resetting the stud collar requires a tool to expand the collar to re-retain them.

Ahhhhh...so the tool isn't necessary....thanks!
Mike

Reading the instructions, it looks like new studs are already (welded?) on the new brake drum/disk.

Mikey1968 wrote: ↑

Wed May 12, 2021 1:59 pm

Reading the instructions, it looks like new studs are already (welded?) on the new brake drum/disk.

That is correct
After your hubs are bare you mate the new rotors with the hub and draw it tight

Very cool! I don't have a press, any problems using a BFH and follow instructions using a backing pipe?

I had a very interesting conversation with a fellow model t enthusiast regarding bleeding the system. Upon installation you have to bleed the system and he told me he bled the system in just ten minutes by pushing the brake fluid from the back to the front and not the other way around. He said that that is the way the airplane mechanics do it. You let the brake unit hang down as the instructions specify but connect a pump to the nipple on the left or right, push the fluid till it starts filling the reservoir and then do the same on the other nipple. Do the same on both wheels and no more air or spongy brakes.
Come to think of it, I should have him do a tutorial on the subject because I may have screwed up the steps and may not work.
Frank