MTFCA Forum

Now that I’ve got the starter gear fixed, I installed a rebuilt Holley NH carburetor as the Kingston L4 on the car was flooding quite badly and had a broken choke spring. I got the car to run with the new NH but it was running way to rich and the mixture control was doing nothing. I figured out that the pack nut on top was too tight and the needle was giving a false bottom. I removed the nut, screwed the needle all the way down and then replaced the nut but not too tight. I got the car to run for a short distance but it backfired and stalled at a red light. I richened the mixture a tad and that helped, but the engine still didn’t seem to be running as smooth as used to with the old Kingston before it started flooding. Today I tried starting Lizzie and the engine fired once and never fired again. The carb is getting gas, I don’t think it’s starving for fuel, I looked at the needle and it’s not scored, unfortunately I didn’t pull the plugs as I ran out of time and had to go to work. Not really sure what’s happening here. First it’s running too rich, then it runs too lean, now it doesn’t run at all. Very confused.

Edit: Might be having float level issues from what I can gather. I’ll check the level later today and see what it is.

Is it a new new NH (as in rebuilt) or just new to you? Personally I would fix the Kingston over fill issue and go back to it. If it's not a rebuilt NH, you could also have plugged passages.

Who's "rebuilt" NH did you install ? Not all "rebuilds" are created equal !!!

I got it from a guy on EBay who sold other T parts, he seemed to have great ratings. I think I’ll fix the Kingston, only problem is the brass nut on the bottom is stuck and no matter how hard I try to remove it it just won’t budge.

Edit: I got the carb from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/usr/modelt96

Did he claim it was rebuilt? Did you pay around $200. Did you buy a core?
Make sure the float isnt hanging up any where. Dont know the quality of the rebuild. were the idle passages cleaned? Steel needle & seat? Viatons can stick intermitently if not done rite.

Yes the listing said it was restored and it came with an intake manifold to carb gasket. It was $185. I’ll check the idle passages and needles.

Bottom the needle out (gently) then open 1 1/2 turns for initial start up setting. Also, ensure the intake manifold has a good seal to the block at both intake ports. Are you using paper gaskets or the steel ring and copper gland?

I’m not sure what intake gaskets I have. I haven’t taken off the intake manifold off yet. I already have gently bottomed out the needle and backed it out 1-1.5 turns and she won’t start.

I think I’ll fix the Kingston, only problem is the brass nut on the bottom is stuck and no matter how hard I try to remove it it just won’t budge.

Heat the nut up, even a propane torch should work and let cool, then try. May take several tries. Same with any of the jets. Regular gas outfit will work better. You can get the bodies orange and will not really hurt them. But in the case of the brass nut, don't want to get the area too hot, could melt the solder out of the float.

NH -When you choke it, do it spit out extra gas?. If not, needle isnt opening to give you gas. Intermittent gas flow? Open drain valve & check for fuel.

How do I make sure there’s no gas in the Kingston if the drain nut just spins without backing out?

kingston. Pull the carb. shake it upside down to empty the gas. You will need to fix the drain when you get the bowl off. Using a torch is a bit dangerous on that stuck nut. Possibly dry it out as best you can & partially submerse it in a can of water, bowl side up whall heating. In water a small but hot oxy/acetelene flame to the nut. Water will protect the solder.

Do you think soaking the bottom of the carb in Kroil or some other penetrating oil will hurt it? I might try that before messing with torches and gas vapors.

Would not hurt. Not sure kroil will get thru the varnish. Worth a try.

Usually, the very few times I thought I had a problem with something I bought from a reputable supplier, I worked the issue personally between the supplier and myself, not on a public forum. I have never had a problem go unsolved when dealt with thusly.

On a public forum, you will get advice ranging from appallingly bad to very good. Do you know which is which?

If you go back to the supplier, you will get advice and instructions that will, a: be accurate, and b: will very likely solve the problem, or if not, c: warrantee satisfaction.

I make my own carb parts and do not purchase someone else's service, so I cannot speak from experience as to the work you purchased but frankly have no reason to doubt that the job was adequately done. For anyone who's done more than 1, NH's are too simple to not do well and correctly, if that was their intent. That said, this supplier has a good reputation and has every reason and motivation to see that you're happy with his product.

Call him. Now.

When you try and start with the NH, do you get gas into the bowl? Sometimes those little float valves stick, particularly if it's been replaced and hasn't been worked up and down much.

The 1 1/2 carb setting is a general setting and may not be the one that’s right for your T. Some T’s run their best at just a bit past 1 turn. My 21 runs the best at 1 1/4 turn or less but at 1 1/2 turn it won’t start when it’s cold.
Others have experienced the same thing one way or another.
It’s a good idea to call the rebuilder or at least email him about the issue. Until you know what exactly he did to the carb it’s a guessing game here on the forum. Deal with him first.

1 1/4 is the published starting point for a rebuilt carb. "will run rich" The extra 1/4 turn should not be enough to not start. The typical, final happy spot, setting is 1 to 1 1/8 turn.

I have contacted the seller and I will be sending the carb back to be repaired. ModelT96 is a great seller. I didn’t know who they were at first but I found their website and phone number and contacted them and they seem very nice.

varmint wrote: ↑

Wed May 12, 2021 7:17 am

32 Charlie Chan b.jpg

Excuse please.