MTFCA Forum

I've tried to look this up but haven't found anything. What is the difference between Rust-Oleum spray can:

. Protective Enamel.
. High Performance Enamel.
. Automotive.
. Farm and Implement.

What really is the difference?

I assume that the difference between Appliance Epoxy is that it is an epoxy paint and that there is a difference between that and enamel.

YOu can call or e-mail Rustoleum and they will explain the products to you. They were very helpful to me.

Where you buy it makes a difference! Where I live, the nearest Walmart is about thirty miles away. My only real local option is Ace Hardware. I buy a lot of it. Use a lot of it. Am used to its drying times and second coat reactions (they're not bad). So, about six months ago, I had to go down the hill for some thing. While there, I went into a Walmart and bought about a case of Rust-oleum spray cans (got to save a couple bucks when I can!). I noticed the cap was different. Thought maybe a factory or batch production thing. I compared the label on the Walmart cans with the labels on the Ace cans I still had. The labels appeared identical. But when I went to use the Walmart cans? They smelled different. They sprayed differently. And I discovered the paint in the Walmart cans was NOT compatible with the paint in the Ace cans! The Walmart can's paint would dissolve and wrinkle the Ace can's well dried paint! (I hate all this environmental BS! And I was an environmentalist a decade before it became popular!) I do wish they would label the cans for compatibility.
I kept the cans separated, and used them up without crossing over. Until I touch up something forgetting which it had before. Hopefully, by then, it won't matter so much?

Rustoleum self priming 2x cover works fine for me. It is soft, but that is good on a part that flexes. I warm metal parts with a mapp gas torch before I spray the paint. This gets all the moisture out of the metal and helps prevent runs. You would not believe the amount of water that can come out of cast iron! I have had parts literally dripping before they got warm enough to drive the water out. The only thing I do not like about Rustoleum is that the paint goes everywhere, so wear long sleeves and gloves. Cheers, Bill

Would also highly recommend the ‘Painters Touch 2X Ultra Cover’ version. It is a thicker Primer+Paint high Gloss, with better spray nozzles than the run of the mill version. Great coverage and finish. I use it on smaller parts so not to require cleaning a paint gun.
Ran into this stuff when trying to find a match to an old Centari paint code, and it kept coming back with a Rustoleum number ?? - Tried it and It was a perfect match !
Haven’t tried the Appliance Epoxy, but Jim Patrick had a post showing a fender he did with it. Looked great.

It's Bill wrote: ↑

Sun May 30, 2021 7:27 am

I warm metal parts with a mapp gas torch before I spray the paint. This gets all the moisture out of the metal and helps prevent runs. You would not believe the amount of water that can come out of cast iron! I have had parts literally dripping before they got warm enough to drive the water out.

THERE IS NO WATER IN METAL PARTS. Steel and iron are solids. They do not contain water. The water is coming from the burning flame of the gas torch you are heating the part with. As the part is initially heated, it is basically below the dew point and water from the flame condenses on it.

This was on one of the welding forums:

When you heat steel with a torch, water will form several inches away in all directions from the flame. This occurs because the gas being burned to produce the flame is a hydrocarbon, which is composed of hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon. When consumed in a chemical reaction such as a flame, the byproducts are mainly carbon dioxide and water. As the hot gases from the flame containing this water get farther away from the flame, the cooler temperatures of the ambient air and steel surface cause the water to condense out of the gases and collect on the surface of the steel plate. This phenomenon appears to be water coming out of the steel, which we know is impossible. Unfortunately, common phrases such as "sweating the steel" or "drive the moisture out" mislead people in the industry as to what is actually occurring.

Cast iron seems to be able to absorb oil. Most "dry" surfaces aren't actually dry. Hydrocarbon combustion does indeed produce water. When you burn a gallon of gasoline in an engine, you are spewing about three gallons of hydrogen dioxide, which can be deadly!

Doubtful. More likely 3 gal DiHydrogen Oxide, which in pure form is non toxic and even good to drink.

Warning! Dihydrogen oxide is an EPA-listed substance that can be harmful to your health! It can also support the growth of BLACK MOLD!

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Sun May 30, 2021 9:43 am

Warning! Dihydrogen oxide is an EPA-listed substance that can be harmful to your health! It can also support the growth of BLACK MOLD!

Getting it straight
From Chemistry Class: Dihydrogen = H2 + Oxide = O or call it Dihydrogen = H2 + Monoxide = O. Is water folks. BUT read the rest!
"A 1983 April Fools' Day edition of the Durand Express, a weekly newspaper in Durand, Michigan, reported that "dihydrogen oxide" had been found in the city's water pipes, and warned that it was fatal if inhaled, and could produce blistering vapors."
So why the claims that it is unsafe? H20 is an Acid, because it is able to donate a Proton. It is also a base, because it is able to accept a Proton. This makes it easy to be "contaminated" by the environment that it is in - acid rain, lead in drinking water, dark/damp places, etc.. The solution: wear a rain coat when it rains, drink distilled beverages and live in air conditioned glass house

A lot of people have died from exposure to Dihidrogen Monoxide. It's been a historically nasty chemical (related closely to Hydric Acid), probably killed millions over the centuries... what's more insiduous is it is naturaly occuring, and, when concentrated in large quantities, they actually build bridges over it to keep people (and vehicles) away from the stuff. I would even benture to guess that more people have died from immersion in Hydric Acid than immersion in molten steel or bronze.

And yet people still play with the stuff as if it were totally harmless... So beware!!!

Crystaline Dihydrogen monoxide sank the Titanic!

Adam, you are absolutely correct.
I have had this argument with some of the Chemtrail idiots who believe that airliners are spraying mind control chemicals. In 42 years in aviation, working on everything from Learjets to 747s, I never saw anything loaded into an airliner for spraying, and never saw any equipment for aerial dispersal either., on any of the airplanes I took apart or put together.
People find it hard to believe that when you burn a gallon of jet fuel, you get a gallon of water as a by-product. THAT is where contrails come from. You can imagine how much water a jet engine is making, based on the huge fuel consumption rate they have.
And the people mentioning the Titanic are right, too!
Those poor passengers were all killed by "di-hydrogen oxide" infiltrating the ship and exposing them to excessive amounts of deeply chilled "di-hydrogen oxide"
It is impossible for humans to survive in a completely "di-hydrogen oxide" atmosphere.
Like my parents always used to say:
"Sure! You want to jump into the "di-hyrdogen oxide" just because all your friends jumped into it! If they all jumped.off a cliff, would you follow them, too?!?!? You kids today!!!"

I believe the High Performance Enamel may only differ in the CFM delivery type, more propellant and larger orifice.

We have a bunch nof those on Congress....