1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

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1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:34 pm

I have '26 headlights. Switching from Bright to Dim makes no difference in light output or beam focus. Bulbs are Mazda 1000 32 C with two identical filaments right close together. *Is Bright supposed to be both filaments on, and Dim supposed to be one filament on?* The lights together pull about 7 amps according to the dash ammeter. Going down the road about 30, turning on the lights puts the ammeter on the discharge side. Normally, it shows + 5 to 7 amps and the battery shows no sign of discharge. The lights are very bright, even with the engine stopped. It looks like both filaments are working all the time, regardless of whether the switch is on Dim or Bright.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by John.Zibell » Mon Jun 07, 2021 5:36 pm

Only one filament should light at a time. The filaments should be one above the other. Top filament low beam (dim) lower filament bright (high beam). Modern bulbs give you a left right shift so I re-oriented the bulb holder in the headlight. Also condition of the reflector makes a big difference in light output.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Mark Gregush » Mon Jun 07, 2021 5:46 pm

Could possibly have it miss wired at the switch. What does the tail light do? There are two terminals on the switch for head lights, low and high and 3rd for tail light so it comes on when switched to ether.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Jun 07, 2021 7:19 pm

The tail light works great, and the accessory brake light works great also. It sounds like the high current draw is due to both filaments being on whenever the lights are on. The wiring, reflectors, and all headlight parts look new. I don't think the filaments are oriented correctly, which would require changing the socket orientation as mentioned above. But the primary issue is the high current draw and lack of Dim/Bright. I suppose can take off wires at the terminal strip to see if the problem is in the switch or switch wiring. I think the generator setting as-is would be sufficient to carry either set of filaments and the tail light, but not both filaments. As close together as the filaments are, I wouldn't think changing from one to the other would change the beam angle much, but I'll try it, and if it does, the next step would be to try to get the filaments oriented like this: = instead of like this: ||.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Mon Jun 07, 2021 7:28 pm

I switched to 6 volt LED Headlights. twice the light at a fraction of the current. not affected by socket orientation.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Jun 07, 2021 8:49 pm

Additional info: Wiring checks OK from terminal block back to switch. Only one filament at a time is lit, not both as I had thought, which I determined by looking at them through welding goggles and confirmed it by jumping the high and low terminals on the terminal block, which made both lights get brighter. As for the current draw, it shows about 7 amps with lights on and engine off, hi or lo. The car has one tail light and one accessory gauge with a pea bulb in it. The bulbs are 32 cp. Original bulbs (I think) were 21 cp, so that might explain some of the current draw. I'm beginning to think that the ammeter may be over-reading, and that the current draw and generator output may both be less than it shows. In any case, it appears that the generator output will need to be raised somewhat to support the 32 cp bulbs and still maintain a slight charge at road speed with the lights on. The left headlight focus screw doesn't seem to do much. The right focus screw seems to work as it should. The right headlight beam lowers slightly when the switch is on dim. The left one seems to move slightly to the right. If the headlight bulb socket is supposed to move to focus the beam, the left one doesn't. The screw moves in and out of the shell a little, but the socket seems to be stuck tight.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Jun 07, 2021 8:51 pm

Do the LED s provide hi and lo beam?


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Allan » Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:44 pm

Lo beam is achieved using two different filaments, as indicated in another post. That short distance between filaments is enough to reflect the light differently from the reflector, throwing the low beam down wards. LED replacements cannot do this. They take multiple LEDS to send their light to the reflector for projection forward. You end up with a big patch of unfocused bright blue light down the road. If there is a low beam, it is the same array of LEDs driven at lower output, giving the same big patch of unfocused light of lesser intensity.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Jun 07, 2021 10:59 pm

I was able to get the stuck left bulb socket to move in the headlight shell, which allowed some improvement in the light pattern. The right socket moves easily in the shell, but the contact is erratic, as if the socket wasn't always grounding to the shell. I went for a drive in the dark, and the ammeter shows about 1-2 amp discharge at 30 mph. The lights are fairly bright, and did not seem to get any less bright in 20 miles or so of driving. Raising the engine speed from idle to 1500 rpm doesn't make much difference in the brightness. Q: If the battery was somewhat less than fully charged, could it be drawing enough recharging current such that the generator lacks enough capacity at its present setting to both charge the battery and operate the 32 cp lights with 1 or 2 amps to spare? The car cranks briskly and starts very easily, but I have not checked the battery state of charge. I suppose giving the battery a good overnight charge would tell the tale.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Tue Jun 08, 2021 1:12 am

Pat. lights have a high and low output just like OEM. light is white 6000K output 70/40 900 lumens current draw about 1 amp. original ford bulb is 21/3 c.p. vendor high output replacements have 50/32 c.p. but they draw more current which can causes Your amp meter to go negative. also LEDs make it possible to run headlights during the day as running lights and still charge the battery. I have a T with one old socket and one new causing filaments to face toward front on one and to the side on the other. most new replacement bulbs have filament facing to the side in OEM sockets. doesn't matter with these LEDs.
Your car Your choice. Good Luck


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Allan » Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:54 am

Pat, the contacts in the socket carry the current to the bulb. If there have been issues over time with various faults, the spring between the outer and inner contacts, can lose its tension due to overheating, and this will mean a weaker contact. You can check this by pushing on the contacts with the bulb and plug removed. They should spring back evenly on both sides of the socket.

I believe the New Zealand authorities have banned the fitment of LED bulbs in lights not designed to have them. The various attempts to make some replacements cannot alter the way the T model parabolic reflector does its work. Because the bulbs cannot be focused accurately, all they do is make a big patch of blue light. They certainly are bright, they draw very little current, and they are likely good to drive behind, but driving into them is another matter entirely.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:21 am

What do the LEDs cost?


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:38 am

Allan: I have a repo steel socket on one side and a brass socket on the other. The steel one is very tight in the shell. The brass one moves easily with the focus screw, but seems to lack reliable electrical contact to the shell. Both sockets seem to have good contacts to the bulb bases. Both light assy. brackets are bolted tightly to the fenders. I'm thinking these bright bulbs pull too much current to work well without having to set the generator charge rate high enough to be an issue for the battery, with most driving being daylight. I can correct the bulb orientation and focus, but, short of a proper automatic regulator, it looks like I'd need to add a switchable resistor to the generator field circuit to manage the charge rate to suit day/night driving. Some old tractors had such an arrangement, with a hi/lo charge rate switch on the panel. As I understand it, the generator can sustain about a 10 amp rate, which would be sufficient to run the lights (about 7 A) and leave about 2-3 A to keep the battery up as long as starting demand was limited. However, I'd think that rate would overcharge the battery on extended daylight running with the lights off.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:40 am

I wonder if the LED units would tolerate a reduced voltage supply to dim them somewhat? That wouldn't be difficult to arrange using the stock wiring.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:53 am

Your problem could be that the wires to the headlights are crisscrossed at the headlight thimble, assuming that they are correct at the terminal block.
Battery headlights are connected in parallel so if you have the bright wire to left headlight bright connection and the dim wire the dim connection, but the reverse on the other other headlight, you would cause both filaments on both lights to be on regardless of the switch connection. The circuit being completed at the terminal block regardless of which way the switch is turned. Disconnect all the headlight wires at the terminal blick and reconnect one at a time to see the result.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:14 am

Frank: The headlight wires are black with tracer stripes. They appear to be correct at the terminal block, but they could be reversed at either thimble. I noticed that the left light seems to dip a little when switched to hi. The right side behaves normally, with a better focus pattern and a slight dip on "Dim". Maybe I need to reverse the wires at the left thimble. Both plugs look to be oriented the same relative to the bracket, with both contacts nearly vertical and lined up with the stem of the bracket. I believe the filaments are oriented \ \ //. I'd think = = would be correct as John indicated.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Norman Kling » Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:29 am

It all depends on how much you drive with the lights on. If you only drive a short distance, such as when you stay at a hotel, you drive a few blocks to get dinner and then back to the hotel, you will be fine with the setting as it is. The speed our cars go, you really don't need to use bright lights either. You can set the generator to charge more by moving the third brush toward the block. However, if you do set the generator higher and do a lot of daytime driving, you should drive with the lights on during the day so you won't over charge the battery.
There is or was a voltage regulator available through the parts suppliers. That regulator looks from the outside just like a cutout. If you want to do a lot of both daytime and nighttime driving, a voltage regulator would be the way to go.
I personally avoid driving at night because I live in a semi rural area and the modern cars go so fast, I don't like to be putting along and get rear ended. So the 4-5 amp setting works just fine for me.
Norm

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:12 pm

PAT. THE LEDS I USE COST ABOUT $9.00 EACH. AND HAVE A HIGH AND LOW brightness and plug and play with OEM switch and wiring. there are a number of LED headlight bulbs for 12 volts but no so many for 6 volts. But if You want to try a pair of LED bulbs I have tried three different types and like this one the best. which also comes in a 12 volt version. unlike the LEDs Alan mentioned they are indeed white 6000K not blue. they are bright but not too bright 70/40 c.p. versus 50/32 c.p. vendor replacements. they make a wedge shaped bulb 5 -30 volts ac/dc a number of folks have used. I think they are too bright and produce a funny c or u pattern depending on socket set up.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:25 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:14 am
Frank: The headlight wires are black with tracer stripes. They appear to be correct at the terminal block, but they could be reversed at either thimble. I noticed that the left light seems to dip a little when switched to hi. The right side behaves normally, with a better focus pattern and a slight dip on "Dim". Maybe I need to reverse the wires at the left thimble. Both plugs look to be oriented the same relative to the bracket, with both contacts nearly vertical and lined up with the stem of the bracket. I believe the filaments are oriented \ \ //. I'd think = = would be correct as John indicated.
My guess is that they are reversed at ONE thimble, thought it might be easier to diagnose from the terminal block is all.

There have been many discussions about the switch over to LED's. While there are claims and some indications that they do provide more light on the road when driving in the dark on a rural road, I believe there these two reason are why they make sense never the less. 1. Less amperage draw. 2. They illuminate the headlight glass much brighter during the daylight hours which in-turn makes the car more visible to other drivers. Basically using them as daytime running lights like on modern cars. Fitment is an issue - the socket on the T headlight is pined for modern tail light bulbs (opposing pins) rather than being offset. So don't buy by description "headlight" check the pins
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:34 pm

Re: LED: Where did you source the LEDs you are using?


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:51 pm

Frank: I find that the thimbles will fit either of 2 ways in the socket. They were installed with the red tracer wire lowest. I tried reversing the left one, putting the yellow (?) tracer lowest and that corrected the backwards behavior of the beam. The wires are correct at the terminal block. I now have both beams in sync, dipping slightly on Low and raising slightly on High. I'll reverse the wires on the left thimble for consistency. I had no idea the thimbles (plugs) would fit the socket either way. They were probably correct when I got the car. The focus is not perfect, but it is fair, and the lights are suprisingly bright with the engine off. Current draw remains high, but I attribute that to the upgrade bulbs. I'm going to let the battery sit on a 1.5 A charger for the rest of the day, then see how things work tonight, if it isn't raining yet again. With the battery (6 V Optima red top) topped off, the generator may be able to hold a 1 or 2 A surplus with the lights on. /// /You folks who are having record heat and drought conditions, your normal weather has been here in Texas for the last several weeks. The NWS says it is leaving here by the end of this week, with 104 F predicted here for Friday. With everthing soaking wet, the humidity and heat are going to be a killer. Another grid emergency may be in the works, especially if winds are low area wide. //// Thanks to all for suggestions and information.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:58 pm

Pat. I bought them from LEDLight.com 1-877-283-5060. SKU # 87455W 6v led headlight BA15D 60 SMD Dual filament. color: white 6000K
price about $9.00 each.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 1:09 pm

For night driving, I'd think the LEDs with hi-lo capability would be the ticket. I have one good tail light/brake light, but my black car with no bumpers will need another tail light/brake light. I have amber LED turn signals. I need a couple of reflectors which I can mount under the rear edge of the turtle deck. All that would give fair visibility at night. It gets so hot around here in summer, it makes early morning and late evening driving attractive, in spite of the wild pigs and suicide deer, but you really need good lights. Traffic is not much of an issue, but you need to visible to the rolling telephone operators.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 1:10 pm

Thanks again for the info, Jim, et al.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 1:21 pm

A few more points about T headlights - Fluted lens and the reflector's focal point that effect light projection
By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 08:59 am:
"One thing that many people miss is the location of the bulb filament in relation to the focal point of the reflector - which in most cases is a parabola.
-In the US the filament was placed perpendicular to the axis of the reflector and it produced a bow tie light pattern.
The fluting on the glass lens took the upward left light and sent it towards the down right.
-In Europe the filament was parallel to the axis and it produced a cylindrical beam of light.
They used a shield to block the upper left light.
OH Ya- In case you didn't get it. -Upper left light is bad for the oncoming traffic. The high beam filament was usually placed off axis so the light would go towards the upper right and left. Not that I know anything about automotive lighting after spending 10 years in the industry!"
By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Thursday, June 20, 2013 - 02:43 am:
"...Once all else is fair and square, there is one point and one point only where the lamp is in the right position on the reflector. The adjusting screw provides for a little...but there was what is called the LCL distance of the original style lamps.
This is the distance from the focal point of the filament to a reference point on the pin. We do not know what this is for Ford lamps as far as I know...but MAZDA in the era said in advertising that their 1129 for single filament or 1110 for dual filament was the proper interchangeable replacement lamp (in the spherical '10' size glass) lamp for Ford cars. Ergo unless it was PT Barnum and they were not as bright a thrown beam as OEM, perhaps the same LCL by definition if they were?
So play away with bulbs and sizes all you want, the LCL just has to be the same as the parabola was designed for or you might just get brighter in some places and darker in others and not able to adjust it out.
The lamp number series is now about 85 years old, and the purpose of the standard was to issue a unique set of specs for each number, not just candle power.
I'm not near any of my lamp books, but do know some have here even have more lamp reference books than me. Find the LCL number for these MAZDA lamps shown...and then any other lamps having the same LCL will match the parabola. Feel free to play with CP and lamp light 'color' all you want at that point.
"Once upon a time" in another of my Don Quixote quests that never got quite finished because something got in the way, I drafted up a manual of how to get the best illumination possible out of old stuff, even resorting to modern standard lamps and how voltage rating played with light etc.
Shown here are cut number 1 and 2. It shows how the light sprays with a proper LCL (figure 1) and how the light sprays with the wrong LCL (figure 2) on a good reflector. On some lamps you just don't have enough adjustment to make a bad LCL good enough to work right.
Focal Point.jpg
An example of what you might expect from some LED bulb designs
Standard vs LED Bulbs.png
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:44 pm

PAT. if You want a lot more light to the rear and Your roadster has the side top tie down posts. the vendors sell a bracket for mounting OEM tail lights on the side posts. I had some brackets made that fit the side posts on the 26 touring and I use Harbor freight trailer lights dual face red rear. amber front. much better visibility to the rear and front. or You can use single lens with just red to rear.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:52 pm

I don't have the bow saddles, but I mean to get some so that I can put the top down. That would give great visibility from all angles, and I could use the 2 wire flat trailer connectors to hook them up, making them easy to add or remove as needed. The amber-red would probably be a good choice. I'm pretty sure it would be legal. A lot of cowboys put similar lights on their headache racks.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Wed Jun 09, 2021 4:31 pm

I tried out the lights last night with a fully charged battery and the wires corrected. The lights work pretty good, with a definite high/low beam. Reflective signs a quarter mile or more down the road will light up. Light in front of the car is fairly bright. The lighting is not as good as decent modern lighting, but it is probably as good as it gets with stock headlights and incandescent bulbs. The 1-2 amp discharge issue with the lights on at road speed remains. I think that is just the way it is with the Mazda 1000 bulbs and the generator charge rate set at about 5-6 amps. If the ammeter is anywhere near correct, the lights draw about 7 amps with the engine off. At any rate, the indicated discharge with the lights on and the engine stopped is a little higher than the indicated charge rate at 1500 rpm+. I can turn up the generator to 9-10 amps, but I'm pretty sure that would mean battery trouble. I wonder how much horsepower a generator consumes pushing 10 amps at 8 volts? That's only about 80 watts, if I'm doing the math right. Not much power.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Jun 09, 2021 4:55 pm

Some perspective:

With a 230 Ah 6V battery and a 1A total draw from the lights while driving (6A charge rate), after driving 5 hours at night to get home, you will still have about 98% battery life left the next day.

Will you ever drive 5 hours straight, with the lights on? If you do, will you care?

Once the car is started the next day, it will be at full charge very, very quickly.

Keep your generator charge rate low and reap the reward of a long generator life and a long battery life. Additionally, with a lower charging rate, If you have a fiber timing gear, you're also a lot more likely to come home under your own power and not on the back of a flatbed, too. High generator charge rates put a much larger load on the timing gear than you might imagine.

Folks who lean toward alternators and their enormous output are generally fall within 1 of 3 categories: 1) they honestly don't know what the car needs to operate, or 2) have enough lights and accessories to draw your attention away from a travelling carnival and need the extra amperage output, or 3) have rotten, oil-soaked wiring that bleeds their battery down in a week and believe the generator isn't worth a $#%&. At least, if it is #2, their wiring will keep them warm in the winter and if it is #3, the car is mercifully trying to save them and their insurance company from a fire claim (at least for awhile).

Sounds like you're fine.
Last edited by Scott_Conger on Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by paulgriesse » Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:18 pm

" If you have a fiber timing gear, you're also a lot more likely to come home under your own power and not on the back of a flatbed, too. High generator charge rates put a much larger load on the timing gear than you might imagine." Really? I thought we all agreed that the fiber timing gear should be replaced with the aluminum version......Thanks, Paul


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:58 pm

Scott: I'm pretty sure this car has a metal timing set. Worst case, I could crank start it if the battery was low. It starts easily on the crank with the battery at normal charge, and I'd expect it to do so even with the battery too low to use the starter. I haven't seriously tried crank starting on the magneto, but I expect it would crank start on the mag with careful adjustment of the spark lever and adding a choke wire. It runs great on the mag at any speed. I don't think the charge deficit is severe, based on how bright the lights are. I'd expect it to have ample power available with 21 cp bulbs, but I'd think the loss of already marginal lighting power would be severe at 21 cp. I don't need a rolling light show, but I think adding a second tail/brake light would be prudent. Given their low cost and plug & play, I'm inclined to give the LEDs a try. That seems to offer improved illumination and reduced power draw. I'd much rather reduce the charging rate than increase it.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:32 pm

Paul

look at the context set up in the preceding sentence...the totality of the statement refers to likelihood of a (potential) fiber gear surviving is greater with low charging rate. You got me to re-read it! I sure could have been more clear, though, and I think I will edit it. :lol:

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Wed Jun 09, 2021 10:50 pm

I tried starting the car on mag with the crank with some success, so a battery too low to crank the car still leaves 3 options for starting, with 2 options available even with a stone dead battery or no battery at all. As for fiber cam gears, I don't trust 'em. I've seen a failing fiber cam gear shed enough material to plug the oil screen sufficiently to burn out the # 1 rod bearing in a 6 cylinder 50s car. Nylon tooth cam sprockets on late '60s Ford V8s are bad news, too.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by paulgriesse » Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:34 am

Scott----I reread your post---Of course you are correct if you`re running a fiber gear.....Sorry to have lifted your statement out of context! I don`t think any "editing" required....Thanks, Paul


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by John Codman » Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:54 am

The 1000 32C bulb has two 32CP filaments. There will be no change in the light output regardless of which filament is selected. If you want high/low beams you need a bulb with differing candlepower filaments, such as Lang's 6572BX which has a 50 CP filament and a 32 CP filament. I confess that I have not read all of the posts on this thread, so if this has already been mentioned I apologize for the redundant post.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by TXGOAT2 » Thu Jun 10, 2021 11:53 am

I think what I need is 32/21 bulbs, if such exist. The bulbs I have do indeed pull the same current regardless of which filament is lit. The 50/32 would no doubt give better lighting, but would aggravate the problem of too much current draw. I seem to recall that a straight series electrical circuit's current draw is a function of voltage applied and the combined resistance of all devices in the circuit provided that all such devices are themselves in series. If that's correct, I could easily add some resistance to the Dim circuit at the terminal block. That ought to reduce the current draw, while of course dimming the light output . By selectively adding resistance, I could de-rate the "Dim" filaments to about 20-25 cp. That ought to allow the generator to feed a small charge to the battery as long as the lights were on the dim setting. I'd have to try it to see if the headlights would still be useful at the reduced output.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Fri Jun 11, 2021 2:02 pm

Pat. Before You go to all that trouble. just use stock OEM 21/3 cp bulbs till You figure out which way You want to go.


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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Allan » Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:27 am

Twin filament bulbs usually have two different wattages. However, the lower watt low beam filament is so arranged to throw the light downwards on low beam because, when properly focused, the reflector does its work. This is why replacement modern bulbs are problematical because the filaments are set at 90 degrees to the proper orientation. This orientation is also not achievable with the less than pinpoint source of light from LED replacements with multiple light sources arranged in different patterns.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by John Codman » Sat Jun 12, 2021 11:41 am

Novice - where would you get those bulbs? Lang's doesn't list them.

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Re: 1926 Headlights 6V, Generator & Starter

Post by Novice » Sat Jun 12, 2021 3:36 pm

John. They are on page 170 of Lang's 2021 catalog. part # 6-DC-TL. 21-3 c.p. double contact.6 volt. straight pins.$1.25 eh. I have some I can send You if You can't find them. also a good idea to run a bead of Bondic UV adhesive or super glue around the base of Your bulbs especially old or NOS bulbs as the glass to metal seal breaks down over time and the bulb can/will twist in the socket when You turn the bulb. ax me how I know. Good Luck

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