MTFCA Forum

T engine in storage for 20+ plus years. Engine is not frozen. Suggestions on my first thing to do would be appreciated.

Put in on my trailer and I will take it home.

1. Leave gas shut off until you determine what, if anything, is in the gas tank. Be sure there is no water in the oil pan. 2. Drain off old oil and put a gallon of clean 20 W or 10W30 motor oil in it. 3. Remove spark plugs and put about 1/4 pint of ATF or Marvel oil in each cylinder. 4. Replace plugs. Screw in several turns, but don't tighten. Let vehicle set for a few hours. 5. Engage hand crank (key off) and crank engine over several dozen times, starting slowly. If engines seems to bind, as with friction, not compression, stop cranking and turn the engine backward a half turn. Add a little more oil to cylinders, then wait a couple of hours and try again. To turn engine backward, engage high gear and push car backward a couple of feet. If the car has a water pump, take the belt off until you can be sure the pump is free and lubricated and you have water in the system.

I suggest you get a lubrication chart for your Model T and oil or grease every item on the chart and spray the leaf springs with motorcycle chain oil. Your car has numerous lube points that need service. Be careful airing up old tires... they may blow out.

Is the engine in a car? If not, suggestions will be different.

Allan from down under.

Thanks for all suggestions. Engine was not in car. I mounted it on a engine stand when got home. I removed spark plugs out and the insides looking thru spark plug holes look not good/. Gave each cylinder several squirts of light oil, let soak for a bit before putting crank to it. Stiff at first but did break loose with crank , more oil( Kroil) to the cylinders and have left it to soak overnight.

Might want to put new bands in, a lot easier out of the car, and if they were cotton linings that were sitting in oil their probably ready to give out,

Hi Don,
I think maybe everyones looking for the rest of the information. Is this your engine or are you looking at it to buy? Is it in a car or not. As far as what to do. Do you know anyone with a bore scope that you can look in the cylinders with? look for rust a little bit may not stop the engine from tunring but can do some harm by scratching the cylinders. Get a pan under the drain and take the plug out very slowly to check for water. Pull the inspection cover & check rods & mains. Pull the trans cover and make sure nothing is coming apart in the trans. At this point you should be able to determine if its a runner, biulder or boat anchor. I purchased a engine that had been use as a power unit. Determined it would probubly run. Decided to take it apart and rebiuld it. I replaced the two piece valves, pistons & rings, clutch spring, fourth main, bands & gaskets. With some other parts I had it is know My back up engine should I ever need one. I'm into it for a total of about $700. Put two hours on it on the run stand, drained it and put it away for a rainy day.
I had another one that I was only able to salvage a hand full of trans parts out of.
Craig.

Pistons often stick and rings can stick in pistons that do move. Valves can stick, too, and forcing a stuck valve by turning the engine can do damage. Sticky valves in an engine like yours can be forced up by the camshaft, then stay up, since the valve springs aren't able to force them back closed. Taking off the valve cover and spraying the valve springs and stems with something like Micromist can help get them moving freely. Putting oil in the cylinders is a good idea, but it probably won't get past closed valves to oil the stems and pushrods and cam lobes. Dumping some oil in the valve spring chamber will also oil the mains on many old engines. Look out for masses of dead bugs, dirt dauber nests, and such like. Critters seem to prefer nesting in old engines even more than spotted owls like nesting Kroger signs.

Hmmm...is this engine missing its crankcase (not attached)?

Is this an engine that you are familiar with already and know that there are no cracks in the block?

I am confident that you will get it freed up. Check for compression next.

If this engine is really unknown to you then check for end play, two piece valves, fiber gear, cylinder walls...

Come to the Farington swap meet of Sunday. You will get more advice that you need, but the swap meet is great.

That is the Farmington Swap meet at the fair grounds. 7 a.m. for vendors, 8 a.m for others.

Don,

There is a 12 page document, "REMOVING A ‘T’ FROM MOTHBALLS" that can serve as a reference with some engine suggestions. See attached.

Dom