So I have some thoughts after some observations with my e-brake cam position as it relates to the lever position @ various positions.
The last picture is the cam when my lever is set @ 12 O'clock or neutral, looks to be level @ 9 & 3, brake lining relaxed approx 10 1/2"
The second picture is the cam position with lever set back as I would when stopped & parked, nose down @ 4 and heel up @ 10, brake lining extended approx 10 5/8" +
The first picture is lever forward as in high gear engagement, nose up @ 2 and heel down @ 8, brake lining is extending outward just a tick under 10 5/8" - this might be part of my problemo.
I think filing off some material on the brake cam upper right and lower left as pictured and some off the brake shoe ears in those locations where they ride will help relax the lining to a somewhat neutral lining position while in high gear (lever forward). Any input would be great.
Hot rear drum...part 2
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
- Posts: 6428
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
It might seem intuitive that "neutral" means the brake cam is level, but that is not true. Your brake rods are adjusted a little too tight and the lining is likely dragging a little on the very ends of the material.
Do not alter the brake cam
Do not alter the brake cam
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
-
- Posts: 3839
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
DONT BE GRINDING.
When the cam is horizontal, the lever should be back about 10 o clock. If you could see it looking from the cam side. When activated ,lever moves forward to 2 o clock.
There are rights & lefts on those cams. Cams on wrong sides??
When the cam is horizontal, the lever should be back about 10 o clock. If you could see it looking from the cam side. When activated ,lever moves forward to 2 o clock.
There are rights & lefts on those cams. Cams on wrong sides??
-
- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
When you are going down the road, the lever is right forward. This is when you need the brake shoes to be completely disengaged. So, the rods should be adjusted so the cam is level when the lever is forward. However, engaging neutral with the lever will slightly rotate the cam and likely make the brake shoes a closer fit.
Because there can be a little slop/wear in the components, the closer fit can be compensated for by adjusting any slop out of the system. With the lever forward, adjust the rods so that the slop gets the cam just engaged on the opposite cam face to where it usually activates the shoes. When the lever is pulled back into neutral, the cam will transition from that opposite face to the working face, with minimal action on the shoes. This gives the best chance of non dragging shoes going down the road, with least drag in neutral, and optimum cam action when needed.
The same steps can be used on the earlier brakes too.
Hope this is clear.
Allan from down under
Because there can be a little slop/wear in the components, the closer fit can be compensated for by adjusting any slop out of the system. With the lever forward, adjust the rods so that the slop gets the cam just engaged on the opposite cam face to where it usually activates the shoes. When the lever is pulled back into neutral, the cam will transition from that opposite face to the working face, with minimal action on the shoes. This gives the best chance of non dragging shoes going down the road, with least drag in neutral, and optimum cam action when needed.
The same steps can be used on the earlier brakes too.
Hope this is clear.
Allan from down under
-
Topic author - Posts: 209
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:26 pm
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Wendt
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Fordor
- Location: Portland Maine
- MTFCA Number: 32419
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
Thanks for all the input on this matter, the explanations help and can now adjust from my current setting. Get it road tested with better results.
-
- Posts: 1105
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:01 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Nunn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: Bennington, NE
- MTFCA Number: 50321
- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
I recall post by Allan Bennett where he suggested using the brake rod adjuster from Rocky Mountain brakes. It has a slot where the clevis pin goes that lets the lever move farther forward without counter rotating the brake cam. It's worth a look.
-
- Posts: 2949
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
- MTFCA Number: 24868
Re: Hot rear drum...part 2
Looking at your axle key. It appears in the photos, that end of the key, adjacent to the threads, is tapered. If that's true, then the key is installed upside down and backwards. The squared off end should be adjacent to the threads, and the tapered side should be facing "down", to allow clearance for the shallowing of the keyway, as it approaches the axle seal.
Like this...
But maybe I'm just not seeing it right in your photos...
Like this...
But maybe I'm just not seeing it right in your photos...