MTFCA Forum

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I picked these sturdy and great looking aftermarket side view mirrors, custom built for Model T’s, at the Bakersfield Swap Meet. I can now actually see what’s behind me.

They are cast and assembled by Bill Bohlen in Southern California. You can find his store on eBay by entering: “Model T Ford brass rear view mirror 1910-1916” in the search bar. Currently $78 each. Cheap if you consider how much they are used.

I was able to swap out Bill’s modern fasteners with three solid brass, period correct, round top screws (one at a time as to not set free the innards) and a solid brass dome nut atop of a short piece of 5/16 x 24 bolt thread. See pictures. This didn’t improve the function so much but did improve the overall look.

PS, If the insides do happen to fall apart, you need only remove the rubber gasket around the glass to get everything back together, like pulling a tire off a rim. …Ask me how I know this.
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I have chrome ones on my '17 Touring. They stay in place and you can actually see what's behind you.

I have one of his black mirrors and haven’t mounted it yet. It looks sturdy

I agree. Bill’s mirrors are the absolute best money can buy.

I have a brass one on our ‘12 pickup and a black one on my speedster.

SurveyKing wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 18, 2021 9:48 am

They do look great, but I am not comfortable with having to drill and tap a hole in the stanchions on my 1924 Touring. Does anyone know if you have to do that or do they fit into the existing stanchion screw?

Daniel,
On my 1915 Touring, I simply removed one of the original machine screws half way up on the side of the windshield frame and screwed Bill's mirror into that same threaded hole using a slightly longer screw, in my case a round top brass one. It was just that easy. However, Bill does specify that his mirrors are intended for "1910-1916". This would make me think that you do not have such screw assemblies on your 25 windshield frame. In any case, please note that I removed the modern fasteners (4 per mirror) from what Bill sent me and replaced them with period correct solid brass hardware. You can see this difference in the photos above. In other words, this final retrofit you will have to do yourself.

Bill’s listing for the 1916-27 mirrors states that you have to drill and tap a hole in your windshield for the later cars.

Well worth drilling in my opinion to take advantage of such nice mirrors!

They are my favorites as well. I have used them on several T's. 1921 was the latest year, and they went right on using a (longer) hinge screw. No drilling required.

I have a pair of those on my 1912 Flanders. They mount onto existing windshield pivot holes, no drilling required. I had to heat and twist the arms to get the mirrors to the correct angle. I also found a matching diameter convex mirror on Ebay for the side opposite the driver to give a wider field of view. It bolted right up to the arm, but only came in black, so I had to scuff it and paint it brass color.

Snyder’s sell some really steady bolt on rear view mirrows. The are made for Model T open cars and bolt directly on the windshield frame stanchion holes. They are super solid and work fine. No drilling necessary. I bought them for my 21 Touring.

I have 2 mirrors from Bills for my 1911 Touring and I'm really please with them. He also provided longer brass screws with it. I Installed them in a minute and work really well.

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I too was able to swap out Bill’s four modern fasteners with three solid brass period correct round top screws (one at a time as to not set free the innards) and a solid brass dome nut atop of a short piece of 5/16 x 24 bolt thread.

If the insides do happen to fall apart on you, you need only remove the rubber gasket around the glass to get everything behind it back together again.
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Steve,
I have 2 of Bill's brass mirrors on my 1913 touring.
I would like to switch out the original hardware as you did.
Where is the best place to order the three screws and acorn nuts for both
mirrors?
Thanks so much.
Gene
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Hello Gene,

I hope that this email finds you well.

In answer to your question, I got the round top brass machine screws at the marine hardware store here in Sausalito CA. They are common. However, if you can't find them I will be happy to send you 6 from here.

The two "acorn" nuts (dome nuts) were much harder to find. They eventually came from Albany County Fasteners;
Website: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com
The short length of thread, screwed into the acorn nut, was just cut from a simple hardware store bolt.

There are two things to remember. First, only "remove and replace" one screw at a time. If you pull out all three the ball-clamp innards of the mirror will fall apart and then your job will get a lot harder. However, the rubber gasket around the glass can be removed, like pulling a tire off a rim, to get inside ...if you missed this piece of "one screw at a time" advice.

Second, polish your new hardware before installing it or it won't look right. I use these fantastic little 3M buttons on my dremel tool. The green followed by the white are as effective as Brasso. Stack at least two of them on your tool at a time. And, I use the other grits for all kinds of other fine detail work.
https://www.amazon.com/Radial-Bristle-A ... ial&sr=1-5

Good luck.
Steven

I just got around to installing mine on my rusty 15 runabout.
It looks so good I just ordered another one.