MTFCA Forum

New owner of a 1927 Touring, I know about nothing on Model T's
I have some weird linkage set up on my carburetor, I believe because they added a water pump and it was in the way of the throttle rod, I'm get rid of the water pump and going to try to go back to original. My engine has a hole in it for the throttle rod but the tappet cover does not, can I just cut a hole in the tappet cover or is there some specific cover I should be using.

As far as I know, all 1927 Fords came with Vaporizers.

Throttle arm position is for a vaporizer. Someone made a way to adapt for the 25-26 carb. Normally there would be no hole in the casting between 2 &3 cyls. & no hole (or slot actually) in the valve cover.
You will need to relocate or add another throttle lever lover & add a hole or slot. As uncommon as an undrilled valve cover is, I would find an original earlier cover (23-26)

Interesting: no terminal block on the firewall. Strange wiring issues.
If you dont have a T1 service manual, you NEED one. First purchase for a T owner.

Bruce,
Looks like you have some work on your hands.
First get a manual.
Second think you need to decide is just how far do you want to take the car back to Henry's design.
Take your time, study and tackle the chosen task.
If it is running, that is huge.
Don't tear into everything all at once.
Work on the safety stuff first.
Wiring/brakes are just the two that I came up with quickly.
Change the fluids, oil and rear end.
Add oil/grease every where. Plenty of diagrams on-line.
Make a list of all the work you want or need to do.
Separate the list between what you can handle and what needs to be farmed out.
Join the local club. You will get a lot of advice that will need to be filtered.

The two main things that you have to do is to drive and have fun.

I agree with the above. I don't see any coil box bolted to the head so I'm guessing that you have a distributor car. That most likely means that the magneto is bad. You have a choice - either you have a fair amount of work on your hands , or you can just have a fun driver. Either way is OK.

If you are going to drive it, leave the carburetor you have. Add what is needed for 26. Vaporizers were used because gasoline was such poor quality. They dont allow a t motor to use its full potential, in my experience.

My apologies, when I say original I just meant the throttle rod, I am going to keep the Holley NH carburetor and it does have a distributor.
Is there anything that keeps the dust and dirt from getting into the valves?

I did buy the service manual, I was told this car ran then sat in a barn for 10 plus years, found a post about getting your Model T out of mothballs and am going through that now. Drained the oil and radiator and the fluids looked good, differential is full and oil looks good, took the valve cover off and the valves look good, cleaned the carburetor and it diffidently looks like it sat for a number of years, the only thing I've really done is crank he motor over a few times buy hand. Waiting on parts to get rid of the water pump which was seized, carburetor rebuild kit and gasket to put the manifolds back on.
The numbers on the frame and motor match and I believe my car was made in Feb 1927

"Is there anything that keeps the dust and dirt from getting into the valves?"
No. you have the correct heat pipe. There are after market air filter kits available. If you do a lot of dirt roads, might be a good idea.

Greetings and congratulations on your Model T purchase.

Vaporizers work fine when properly rebuilt and maintained. I can get my Touring up to 40 mph easily.

Check to see if there is someone near you who has a Model T and can assist you. There are many past postings and information on this site that will help you get your car running well. There are safety check lists and videos available. The wiring needs attention as well as other items but most important are the items that affect safe driving like the rear end rebuild etc.

Good luck and happy T'ing

I would ditch the plastic fuel filter. If you want to run one, get a metal filter. Plastic that close to hot exaust manifold can melt or crack.

There was a plastic line and plastic fuel shut off on mine when I got it. After two trips (1/2) mile total the line crystalized and was leaking gas.

Looks like a nice car you have. I look forward to progress you post.

Unless the entire fuel system was drained, you might have some fuel blockage. The sediment bulb at the outlet of the gas tank, if in good condition, and the screen is good, should be enough to remove the small particles or small amount of condensation from the fuel system. It should be drained from time to time just to keep the sediment out of the carburetor. You really don't need an additional fuel filter, in fact it could cause starvation on a hard pull. It is also important to find out what voltage your ignition system is so you can use the appropriate battery. If you have a battery higher than the 6 volt battery which was standard, you could also have problems over time with the starter, which, if original equipment was made to work on 6 volts and it will slam into the flywheel very hard and will eventually be damaged.
Norm

As others stated, the throttle rod going over the head is correct for your car. If what on yours looks like a home made conversion for an NH does not work well, the vendors sell one that may work better. https://www.modeltford.com/item/6299CL.aspx