Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
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Topic author - Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:19 pm
- First Name: Bryan
- Last Name: Tutton
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Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Hello,
I added Rocky Mountain brakes to my 1914 Model T. I decided to buy the pre-fab Rocky Mountain brake pedal (T-3439-A1) from Snyders instead of welding the extension on my existing brake pedal. Everything seemed fine until I put the wood floorboard back into the car and the pedal no longer fit in the wood slot of the floorboard. The pedal kind of curves towards the driver and it makes it hit the end of the wood slot. The only way it will fit is to push it down a little because it hits the end of the wood slot. The problem is the pedal is then always partially pushed down.
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Has anyone else run into this? I plan to call Snyders on Monday.
.
Thank you.
I added Rocky Mountain brakes to my 1914 Model T. I decided to buy the pre-fab Rocky Mountain brake pedal (T-3439-A1) from Snyders instead of welding the extension on my existing brake pedal. Everything seemed fine until I put the wood floorboard back into the car and the pedal no longer fit in the wood slot of the floorboard. The pedal kind of curves towards the driver and it makes it hit the end of the wood slot. The only way it will fit is to push it down a little because it hits the end of the wood slot. The problem is the pedal is then always partially pushed down.
.
Has anyone else run into this? I plan to call Snyders on Monday.
.
Thank you.
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
I have a `13 that I'm installing Rockies on this week.. I to chose the replacement Peddle Option.. When I get it installed, I'll let you know..
Cap
Cap
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- First Name: john
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Same problem. Pedal is marked R/M. Floor board was widened a good 3/4" more. Typical Repo part that dont fit. The previous pedal(same type) had slag in the cam & needed some massaging. Customer provided both cases.
In the old days, the R/M set came with a chunk of iron & instructions to weld to the bottom of existing pedal. Personally preferred.
Bonus: pedals match!
In the old days, the R/M set came with a chunk of iron & instructions to weld to the bottom of existing pedal. Personally preferred.
Bonus: pedals match!
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
I've installed 2 of the repro R/M pedals with no problems. But as indicated, just widen the slot and you're good to go. No big deal in my book.
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
John the only concern I have about welding a metal part on the bottom would be the integrity of the weld. I read once where a guys welded extension broke off...luckily his trans brake band was tight enuf to eventually get him to stop, plus the brake lever. I prefer an all one-piece part.
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- First Name: Mark
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
If you try to bend it, DO NOT DO IT COLD. These are cast, not a forging like the original.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
I added my own extension to a bake pedal I intend to use for AC brakes. I think I stuck it on well enough to stay. I found the same problem when I installed the floor board, but I didn't have to remove much wood to make it fit.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
If the slot is too narrow, and you make it wider; You then are also going to have to make the slot in the trim plate wider too.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
There you go. Fixing 1 problem & creating another. Repop's!Mark Gregush wrote: ↑Mon Jul 19, 2021 12:41 pmIf the slot is too narrow, and you make it wider; You then are also going to have to make the slot in the trim plate wider too.
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Actually, the problem might not be a problem. The best remedy would be to widen the slot. The cam on the pedal is brand new, while the old one has worn down over the years. When you depress the pedal the cam will move the pedal toward the driver's side. Most likely the existing floorboards are not original and the slots have been cut to fit the pedals as they were at the time the floorboard was made.
Norm
Norm
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
You then are also going to have to make the slot in the trim plate wider too.
Maybe. Depends on how much extra space the extension requires.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
A real Rocky Mountain set of brakes does not use a special brake pedal!
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Today I finally got the '13 back on it's new spokes, Rear parts of the Rockies Installed, and ready to toss in the Brake Pedal.. Got it all in and started to adjust the Trans Bands to do an Initial Clearance of the pedals..
Well Darn.. the Clutch Linkage of the '13 ( Starter Hoggs Head ) has been Modified ( Butchered ? ) and has a Heim Joint assembly installed..
All of this new 'Stuff' has forced me to 'Inlet' ( Dent ) the Starter Cover to allow access for Heim Assembly to clear the Starter Cover..
This also now prevents a 'Retro' Brake Pedal from clearing the Joint Assembly..
I've had to Fab and Weld a Straight Arm Extension, to get around the Tighter than normal Space to get to where the Rockies arm is wanting to be.. I'm using Electric Nickle Rod.. Great Stuff
Initially I was tempted to find a new Hoggs Head to replace all of this stuff, but it was on the Car and so far I've been able to do work arounds.. but it's getting tight down there, and it's getting late in the Process to change it now..
I'll place a Bunch of notes in my 'Build Book' for this car, so when it goes back to the owner, the next guy to work on it knows what he is getting into.. I've been taking LOTS of Pictures for the Book..
The fun never ends on this car..
Cap
Well Darn.. the Clutch Linkage of the '13 ( Starter Hoggs Head ) has been Modified ( Butchered ? ) and has a Heim Joint assembly installed..
All of this new 'Stuff' has forced me to 'Inlet' ( Dent ) the Starter Cover to allow access for Heim Assembly to clear the Starter Cover..
This also now prevents a 'Retro' Brake Pedal from clearing the Joint Assembly..
I've had to Fab and Weld a Straight Arm Extension, to get around the Tighter than normal Space to get to where the Rockies arm is wanting to be.. I'm using Electric Nickle Rod.. Great Stuff
Initially I was tempted to find a new Hoggs Head to replace all of this stuff, but it was on the Car and so far I've been able to do work arounds.. but it's getting tight down there, and it's getting late in the Process to change it now..
I'll place a Bunch of notes in my 'Build Book' for this car, so when it goes back to the owner, the next guy to work on it knows what he is getting into.. I've been taking LOTS of Pictures for the Book..
The fun never ends on this car..
Cap
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
The clearance inside the Bendix housing can be pretty tight, be sure to check that the Bendix spring bolts don't scrape the inside of your "massaged" housing.
Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Installing the correct clevis and a slight straighten of the transmission shaft lever appears to be all it would have taken.
I fail to understand why adding an accessory brake pedal has now somehow caused the low pedal to suddenly interfere with the bendix...unless it was bent to accommodate the brake pedal. I just fitted new rockies with a new pedal...the pedal tab needed massaging...simple enough and certainly no other parts were altered to accommodate it.
I think you're going at this in a more difficult way than I would have, but that's what makes the world go 'round, I suppose.
As for the OP, now that your post has been loaded with other people's problems, how are YOU making out with your job?
I fail to understand why adding an accessory brake pedal has now somehow caused the low pedal to suddenly interfere with the bendix...unless it was bent to accommodate the brake pedal. I just fitted new rockies with a new pedal...the pedal tab needed massaging...simple enough and certainly no other parts were altered to accommodate it.
I think you're going at this in a more difficult way than I would have, but that's what makes the world go 'round, I suppose.
As for the OP, now that your post has been loaded with other people's problems, how are YOU making out with your job?
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
Scott:..
I'm speculating that some other person chose this method to 'Fix' Severely warn out Linkage arms. They drilled and Tapped the Arms to accept the Bolts that are now in them. Both the Low Peddle and the Clutch arm will need to be replaced.
For some reason, the Low Peddle is 'Out to the Left' by about 1/2 Inch, where it was hitting the Starter Cover.. To me it looks like the Internal Cam needs some sort of Spacer behind it, to move the Low Peddle 'Inboard'.
While the Hogs Head was off, I replaced the Internal Cam and the Low Peddle Shaft thinking something might be wrong with them.. After assembly it was the same.
Something is Definitely off on this install..
But it's together now and works..
Cap
I'm speculating that some other person chose this method to 'Fix' Severely warn out Linkage arms. They drilled and Tapped the Arms to accept the Bolts that are now in them. Both the Low Peddle and the Clutch arm will need to be replaced.
For some reason, the Low Peddle is 'Out to the Left' by about 1/2 Inch, where it was hitting the Starter Cover.. To me it looks like the Internal Cam needs some sort of Spacer behind it, to move the Low Peddle 'Inboard'.
While the Hogs Head was off, I replaced the Internal Cam and the Low Peddle Shaft thinking something might be wrong with them.. After assembly it was the same.
Something is Definitely off on this install..
But it's together now and works..
Cap
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
the pedal is likely just fine as is the clutch lever...just out of a non-starter car.
If the low pedal link is mostly vertical down from the pedal, it is for non-starter...if it is angled severely toward the hog's head, it would be the correct one (and would have cleared the bendix.
I remember the other thread now...that was one cobbled up specimen. You've done the owner a service by getting all of the time bombs out of the transmission.
If the low pedal link is mostly vertical down from the pedal, it is for non-starter...if it is angled severely toward the hog's head, it would be the correct one (and would have cleared the bendix.
I remember the other thread now...that was one cobbled up specimen. You've done the owner a service by getting all of the time bombs out of the transmission.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Rocky Mountain Brake Pedal - Not fitting
" the pedal is likely just fine as is the clutch lever...just out of a non-starter car."
That helps a lot..
I was told the Hoggs Head was Swapped out.. I was expecting it to include the 'Complete Assembled' Hoggs Head.. Now I know it was just the Casting, and the Old Guts were put in.
Not the way I would have done it.. But as you said, " but that's what makes the world go 'round, I suppose."..
Thanks again for the Information..
Cap
That helps a lot..
I was told the Hoggs Head was Swapped out.. I was expecting it to include the 'Complete Assembled' Hoggs Head.. Now I know it was just the Casting, and the Old Guts were put in.
Not the way I would have done it.. But as you said, " but that's what makes the world go 'round, I suppose."..
Thanks again for the Information..
Cap