MTFCA Forum

Steve, can you post photos of the failed items?

You would probably get a better response with something other than a latin subject line, most people will assume its spam and ignore the thread.

John, most of us know Steve is not a latin speaker. When I saw his name on the post, I opened it right away.

The same quote applies to broken crankshafts and block rear webs. Did the broken crank take the rear web out, or did the rear web break out, taking the crankshaft with it. I have seen repeated instances of the latter.

Allan from down under.

...most people will assume its spam and ignore the thread.

95 people have looked so far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNnh0acvDlY

Hi Steve,
The first low drum I cracked the tear down led to one seized tripple gear bushing, the low drum bushing seized to the brake drum and spinning in the low drum, reverse seized to low drum and spinning in the reverse drum, the driving plate rivets loose as can be. The square in the driving plate almost rounded out. Reverse drum was cracked, the holes in the brake drum wear so badly worn it was not useable. The only part in the trans salvagable was the fly wheel. I'm pretty sure my slipping low band when my leg got tired did not lead to all of those issues. This was my fist model T and I had driven the wheels off of it for 7 years. The guy I purchased it had done the same. Makes you wonder how they do it? When I took it all apart the engine was not much better. I'm amazed at the fact that model Ts will go down the road on the verge of falling apart. I'm pretty sure that no single issue leads dirrectly to an other unless it's a broken crank or a thrown rod. It's back together and running great. Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with yours. I for one like the Latin referance. My latin as a alter boy is long forgoten but theres google. Dum spiro spero.
Craig.

Not quite a opine, but just a guess from looking at the two posted pictures of the transmission. The triple gear bushing in one gear looks like the front face is worn off as shown by the pin sticking up past the gear, it looks like the ware was over a long time and not a quick thing.
A second gear shows the bushing stuck to the pin but with what looks like old ware on bushing to gear contact, meaning that the bushing was spinning on the gear and not the pin. The third gear looks ok. These transmission gears were very warn but still going at time of drum failure. The picture of the failed drum shows that its bushing is warn but ok. There for the broken drum caused the end for a very worn, but still working, tramission.

I see a phrase in Latin, I know it must be Steve J! I quickly click into it to see how close I came to understanding the phrase (my self taught Latin isn't very good?) (this time I didn't come very close, but not too far short?).

I don't figure many spammers are smart enough to be able to use much Latin?

The nicest running, smoothest and most quiet model T transmission I ever had was so completely wore out that while lifting the engine and transmission on a hoist to unbolt and separate them, Two triple gear pins and gears literally fell OUT! The two pins hit the concrete floor! Even the flywheel was wallowed out beyond reasonable repair. Very few parts were usable.
But WOW, was that transmission smooth and quiet before I took it apart!

In your case?
I suspect that the whole transmission was too tight when it had been rebuilt by whomever years earlier. Probably, the triple gear pins and bushings seized first. Once they chew themselves up a bunch, they start banging everything else to pieces.
Model T transmissions prefer to run a bit loose. Not TOO loose of course. But never too tight.

Looks like drum got hot. Running kevlar? Ergo, too tight, hi spot or out of round band. Was kevlar band installed thru the inspection cover?
A constant engagement beats the tripple bushings. Usually makes for a noisy transmission, even in high.

Priores Conatus Male Consulta. I’m wondering if this is the motor that OP attempted to balance with sheet metal applied to the drums ? If so, that probably predates either of those failures

Sometimes the rooster crows during the daytime, so it is not always what causes the sun to rise. Sometimes there is no rooster and the sun rises. The two are not related. You are lucky that's all that happened. You have probably seen what happened to one of my cars when the drum broke. The whole transmission was destroyed, but the crankshaft did not break. Fortunately I was just starting out in low so not moving very fast, but the whole car locked up. I couldn't even push in neutral. The two might be unrelated, however, I suspect when the drum broke, a piece jammed into the gears causing one or more to stop while the flywheel was still turning hence the bushing seized. Anyway, you will need to replace everything which is broken. One thing which can lead to low drum collapse is the cam and notch on the low pedal are worn. In that case, the only way to get the low band to operate is to adjust it very tight. When it is that tight it drags when in any gear except low including neutral. That way the drum gets very hot. You will notice in the picture attached, the drum was blue. A blue drum indicates it has been running hot and that also takes out the normal temper of the drum causing it to crack easily.

Sorry, Norm

Correct. That cam condition leads to a dragging kevlar band, heat & GRENADE.
Preventable on the low drum when adjusted with the engine running.

I’m wondering if this is the motor that OP attempted to balance with sheet metal applied to the drums?

Nope. No extra material on this drum.